Thread: wiring a starter in a 350 sbc

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I have a 1961 chevy truck. Originally it came with a straight 6, but it was switched to a 350 sb. The book that came with the truck shows wiring only for a generator, which has been converted over to a altenator. HELP!!!

The positive battery cable connects to the big post on the top of the solenoid, the starter relay connects to the smaller post towards the engine, and if you have points, the ballast resistor bypass connects to the small post on the side farthest from the engine.

... and then the ballast resister is hooked up to the coil???
and whats the difference between a ballast resistor and a ballast resistor bypass???

When teh car is cranking, teh relay (solenoid) on teh starter lets full votage go to the ignition coil. when you let off the cranking, a resistor reduces the voltage to the coil.

You are asking two questions here...how to hook up a starter (see answer above) but in teh post you mention alternator?

Which is it? I mean, they are not interchangeable in function, location or wiring hookup...

To wire a ballast resistor, run a wire from + on the ignition, to the ballast resistor, then to the points in the distributor. For the bypass, wire it to the terminal on the starter solenoid farthest away from the engine, then connect the other end of the wire somewhere between the distributor and the ballast resistor. If you have a ballast resistor, want a bypass, but don't have the terminal, the solenoid side of the wire can be connected to the terminal that goes to the starter or to the wire that comes from the ignition to the solenoid, but you'll have to use a diode or rectifier in that wire.

ok...so the battery connects to the the big terminal on the sol. , the right terminal (s) goes to the switch, and the and the (+) on the switch goes to the ballast resistor which is connected to the points on my dist...right???

The bypass wouldn't go to the ballast resistor, it would go around the ballast resistor. Just splice it anywhere into the wire that goes between the ballast resistor and the distributor.

Actually instead of splicing, just put a terminal on it and connect it to the + terminal on the coil.

ok...thanx...is there anything else i should know???

Three-Fifty...Everything built after the 6 volt era usually has a resistor wire built into the harness...I call any wire that is turned off by the ignition switch a "Switched Wire "...All will have 12V except for the wire to the coil.It is cut down to about 8V..So if you already have a 12V system and want to add a resistor you can't use the existing wire to the coil..You need a 12V switched wire...A voltmeter is without a doubt a handy tool..On some Chevy trucks etc..there is sometimes a non fused IGN. terminal in the fuse block that is switched... The ignition switch should have an accessory terminal too that would work..One wire to one side of the add on resistor..One wire from the other side of the resistor to the + side of the coil..And of course one wire from - of the coil to the distributer..One wire from the "I" treminal of the solenoid to the + side of the coil..There is a disc in the solenoid that while activated sends a full 12V to the coil while cranking..I had an inline Chevy six once that wouldn't shut off one day.The battery cable at the solenoid had come loose touching the "I" treminal feeding the coil a full twelve volts..That sent me reeling for a few..Concerning your trucks alternator you need to post what kind it is...Built in regulator or remote ??..One wire Delcos work the best..I just put one on a Ford Falcon six cylinder..Made a new car out of it..Keeps the voltage up there better...Thanks for listening...Al...