Thread: 79 nova master cylinder angle
-
02-16-2006 06:56 PM #1
79 nova master cylinder angle
hi all, i have a 79 nova that is currently being taken apart and redone....... my question is about the master cylinder and if there is a way to level it out. i hate the angle that it was given from the factory. why did they mount it at an angle in the first place? thanks, mung
-
Advertising
- Google Adsense
- REGISTERED USERS DO NOT SEE THIS AD
-
02-16-2006 07:13 PM #2
probably to clear the valve cover.PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.
-
02-16-2006 09:35 PM #3
whats up tech, been reading your posts for a while...... always good stuff. is that a guess?? ive never seen a stock engine compartment in a 79 nova so i cant be sure why they did it, but im sure youre right about needing clearance for something its an odd upwards angle. i think ive seen it on 70's camaros too. i wonder if its safe to level out? anybody else got a clue?
-
02-16-2006 09:41 PM #4
Some of the options were at that time Air Conditioning, and it may have been that GM just used the same angles on all the models at that time for clearence...I don't see any problem with leveling it out- as long as the fluid resevoir holds the full mark.Jim
-
02-16-2006 09:53 PM #5
I don't know either; but, I do know that my Firebird has one helluva rake to it as well. This is the new booster and master cylinder; but, the old one was exactly the same and the firewall is perfectly correct near as I can tell.Sometimes NOW are the "good old days"...
-
02-16-2006 11:17 PM #6
I'd be careful of the rod angle when you level it, just make sure that the travel is the same. You may have to re-drill the pedal arm at the top.Jim
-
02-16-2006 11:29 PM #7
Jim,
Yeah, I was awful worried about it at first; but, after checking it over a few dozen times and looking at other cars as well, it appears to be correct. Just seems awful aggressive. One thing to note is that in the pic, the car has 15" wheels in the front (to clear the calipers) and 14's in the back. So there is a slight angle induced that makes it appear even a little more agressive than it will be in the end. In any event, I am definitely keeping an eye on it. Because I don't wanna be usin' no telephone poles ta' stop it.Sometimes NOW are the "good old days"...
-
02-17-2006 07:16 AM #8
if redrilling the rod is all i have to do ill be happy. thanks for the replies guys.
-
02-18-2006 08:02 AM #9
I beleave Tech is right about the clearance but more on the interior side than the valve cover. I just took a 78 Camaro apart for its break system you can and I have mount them level. You will have to modify the mounting for boster to do it. After all with a torch and welder all things are possible.
-
02-18-2006 08:27 AM #10
it don't make no dif. how its mounted as long as the inlet and breather holes (in the bottom of master cylinder) stay covered with brake fluid.Mike
check my home page out!!!
http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html
-
02-18-2006 10:10 AM #11
there will be no chrome on my car...... parts will either be painted or aluminum in some form of finish(except for the bumpers and trimwork). as far as i can see then, that bracket that connects the booster to the firewall will be modified (bent) to a more acceptable angle. awsome, thanx guys
-
02-20-2006 05:33 PM #12
something new has come up, maybe...... i thought that the power brake booster when hooked up to the manifold vacuum would create a vacuum inside the booster and not continuously pull air. eg., i disconnected the vac hose from the booster to the engine and sucked on it to see how it worked (sounds wierd, i know), and well, the air just kept coming. is that the way its supposed to work? and yes, i took the check valve out and put the hose directly up to the booster grommet to make sure the leak wasnt coming from the connections.
-
02-20-2006 05:55 PM #13
boosters use vacume and atmospheric preassure to create the force, but I don't know if it is enclosed and should run out of air, or if it sucks past to create the force.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
-
02-20-2006 07:08 PM #14
I think that if you pull the check valve out from the booster that it will equalize the pressure in the canister...this must not be a good thing as it voids all returns. I am not sure if you'll be able to get it pressurized properly again...does anybody know how to do this? Denny? Or am I off the point on this one?Jim
-
02-20-2006 07:14 PM #15
Originally posted by hambiskit
I think that if you pull the check valve out from the booster that it will equalize the pressure in the canister...this must not be a good thing as it voids all returns. I am not sure if you'll be able to get it pressurized properly again...does anybody know how to do this? Denny? Or am I off the point on this one?
it won't make no dif. just plug it back up and it'll be ok.Last edited by lt1s10; 02-20-2006 at 07:17 PM.
Mike
check my home page out!!!
http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html
I wanted to complain about this NZ slang business, but I see it was resolved before it mattered. LOL..
the Official CHR joke page duel