Thread: sawzall blade question
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02-19-2006 12:53 PM #1
sawzall blade question
ok guys i need to know what the best kind of blade is for hard metal
like as far as teeth type and stuff
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02-19-2006 01:11 PM #2
I use the standard issue hardware store type bi-metal blade. The short ones work the best for me, less chance of binding. Slices tubes like butter."PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
"LIVE" your life like you could die tomorrow.
John 3:16
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02-19-2006 01:27 PM #3
fine tooth or coarse tooth?
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02-19-2006 01:53 PM #4
I use fine tooth."PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
"LIVE" your life like you could die tomorrow.
John 3:16
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02-19-2006 02:20 PM #5
thanks man. and nice ass car
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02-19-2006 03:14 PM #6
I've found the short fine tooth blades to work best. The longer the blade the more prone to brakeage.... but sometimes ya need the reach...Never go in reverse when you can go forward.
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02-19-2006 03:40 PM #7
14 tpi is what I use for general purpose cutting.PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.
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02-19-2006 09:22 PM #8
thanks guys i bought a 14tpi inch blade and ill see what it does tommorow
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02-19-2006 09:30 PM #9
Just let the teeth do the work, don't press down too hard on the work and the blade will last a long time. Also, keep the speed down to subsonicPLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.
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02-20-2006 12:24 AM #10
yeah, what he said about the speed, and if you are sawing away on something substantial, like stainless steel, or 1/2" or thicker mild steel, then keep the blade bathed in a continuous stream of WD40. ( best done with a helper ).
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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02-20-2006 11:12 AM #11
this stuff isnt stainless and isnt very thick
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02-20-2006 12:01 PM #12
You'll be "fine" with the fine tooth short blade.
If that doesn't "cut it", try one of those Ron Popeel steak knives............
but wait .......there's more.........
Buy my tube cutting knife and get a set of 4 steak knives at NO EXTRA COST TO YOU.
but wait ....... there's more.
If you act now I also throw in a '32 roadster.
OOOO0ppps sorry, didn't act fast enough. that offer "Just" expired."PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
"LIVE" your life like you could die tomorrow.
John 3:16
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02-20-2006 12:03 PM #13
The tooth count of the blade you should use has more to do with the thickness of the metal you are cutting and not the hardness. A high tooth count will cut anything, but will be slow in thicker metals. Low tooth counts will work well in thick metals, but they break teeth off when you try to cut the thin stuff. Depending on the hardness of the metal, you will need to select a blade material to match. Cobalt and Bimetal blades work best for harder metals like stainless.
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02-20-2006 02:00 PM #14
I had a 72 GMc Jimmy I had bought at one time that had a plw set up on it since it was brand new. Bolts huge and rusted on real good. I wanted it off in a hurry and the location of the bolts I just couldnt break them free, and didnt have access to a torch at that time. Break out the reciprocating saw. The steel where I was cutting had to be 1/2" to 3/4" thick and 4" long. A Fine 6" metal blade, and a frequent squirts of WD 40 as someone else mentioned, and I was through it in about 2 minutes.
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02-20-2006 05:40 PM #15
No I missed that one. Whadtheysay?"PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
"LIVE" your life like you could die tomorrow.
John 3:16
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I wanted to complain about this NZ slang business, but I see it was resolved before it mattered. LOL..
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