Thread: Residual check valve
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03-26-2006 05:01 PM #1
Residual check valve
Since I've pulled my engine on my 37 and wound up doing alot more than what I expected I found my self with no room to mount my master cylinder except under the floor board.Do I need a residual check valve now since gravity is not going to be working for me. Also how far should I mount it from the master cylinder? Since I have disc on the front and drums on the back do I need to mount two and if so what size(pound) should I buy?Keep smiling, it only hurts when you think it does!
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03-26-2006 05:07 PM #2
2 # RPV , you should have because it would be the lowest point in the system, the fluid would fill back to the resivore, mount it as close to the master Cylinder as possible, that is what the directions say for the Willwood RPV's, I put a 10 # on my Falcon due to the disc drum master, and followed the directions, the valve ended up 8" from the master cylinder, and 12" from the Preassure differential valve.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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03-26-2006 05:15 PM #3
if you have a double resivoir type master you will need one in each line . if drums 10 lbs if disks in the front a 2 lb in the front and ten in the rear.
what i have been told it is to keep backpressure in the lines as the brake cylinders can pull air back in after application and let off.
i put them in my bucket and they seenm to work
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03-26-2006 05:37 PM #4
Originally posted by canadianal
if you have a double resivoir type master you will need one in each line . if drums 10 lbs if disks in the front a 2 lb in the front and ten in the rear.
what i have been told it is to keep backpressure in the lines as the brake cylinders can pull air back in after application and let off.
i put them in my bucket and they seenm to workYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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03-26-2006 05:46 PM #5
I'm running a dual master cylinder so I'll take your advice and run #2 on the disc and #10 on the drums. Thanks for the help.Keep smiling, it only hurts when you think it does!
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03-26-2006 05:55 PM #6
Originally posted by chevy 37
I'm running a dual master cylinder so I'll take your advice and run #2 on the disc and #10 on the drums. Thanks for the help.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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03-26-2006 06:49 PM #7
suspected brake hangup
using a Fiero master cylinder, no added residual valve externally.
Car has difficulty backing up, unless jacked up with the brakes removed, where the wheels move very freely.
Excess back/residual pressure? Replace master cylinder with same or other?
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03-26-2006 07:10 PM #8
sounds as tho, the rotational forces are pulling the shoes into the drum, they are supposto going forward when you apply brakes, but not at any time in reverse, do the shoes line up right on the anchor pin? if they don't there could be your problem
oh yeah, big shoe on the rear, small shoe on the front.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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03-26-2006 09:11 PM #9
shoes
shoes are for drum brakes, I have 4 wheel discs
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04-03-2006 04:31 PM #10
Residual brake value setup
Attached photo: setup of Master cylinder, residual values and proportioning value on my 29. (under floor mount)
jc
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