Thread: Welder question

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Oh come on Pat you sissy, you don't like it when a spark or something cleans out your ear wax?

Originally Posted by FMXhellraiser

Oh come on Pat you sissy, you don't like it when a spark or something cleans out your ear wax?

no i have had it happen many time the last time i did not think i was goning to get hearing back in that ear it works but took along time to get it back. so hellraiser did you say some thing

no problem with a110 v welder. use .023 ga wire for sheet metal and .035 wire on the highest welder setting for the frame. - be sure the metal is clean

I am at the same spot on my project. I have a Lincon 110 and just today I tack welded on some (sup)frame brackets. I am taking my frame to a professional welder this week to complete the welds and go over all my welds. I am not a great welder and I actualy took a slugde hammer to mine today to test the welds (which held) and I still want a professional to go over all of them. They charge by the hour (mine $60.00/hr) and I think he is well worth it. Good luck and be safe.

Yes doing that is WELL worth it. Either that or have them fail and you wreck and have to pay your hospital bill, other persons car you crashed into and your car as well. You never know that could happen even though it sounds a little over bored. Cheaper to do that than buying a new welder, taking classes and spending all the time to learn unless you plan to do a few more front end jobs in your lifetime...

On the subject of arc welders, I have the same Lincoln 180 welder, but haven't used it since my Kid bought the mig. But, years ago I used to buy "contact" welding rods from Sears that let even me put down a pretty nice bead. I think they had powdered metal cores, or something similar, and the advantage was that they didn't "stick" like regular rods.

I could go along and actually get a pretty nice bead pattern, they seemed to melt into the work and flow better. It has been years since I bought any, and am not sure if they even make them anymore, plus, they did cost more than regular rods. They did work nicely, though.

Does anyone know what I am talking about?


Don

If you are talking about Iron Powder rods then yes I know what you are talking about. These lay out very nice and smooth. 7018's,7028,7014, etc are an example of them. They still stick sometimes though and yes they still make them. Back then they were probably the color of brown or red? Now they are a cream and grey. There is a 6010 in redish brown and there is a newer type out in better quality in grey. I cannot think of the company though that is making them... I want to say Lincoln......???

Oh and reason for them to come out nicer is because the powder is made or converted into steel and puts more metal to weld deposite. When it's added in a good bit of amount then the arc is better stabilized and there is less splatter and easier to chip off the slag.

Originally Posted by FMXhellraiser

If you are talking about Iron Powder rods then yes I know what you are talking about. These lay out very nice and smooth. 7018's,7028,7014, etc are an example of them. They still stick sometimes though and yes they still make them. Back then they were probably the color of brown or red? Now they are a cream and grey. There is a 6010 in redish brown and there is a newer type out in better quality in grey. I cannot think of the company though that is making them... I want to say Lincoln......???

7018 7024 7014 are call drag rods that is to say you can drag them on the steel .the coating is for sheilding think 6013 may be to ?the 6010 rod is red and has a wood pulp coating called boiler rod and is not a drag rod and you have to have a dc welder to run this rod.you have to keep it off the steel and will not make a nice weld but if it is rusty it will weld it the rod is not effected by moister it had been over 20 years but i remember a bit still all arce rods are made by many .the rod for welding iron. i use are made by weld mold and there is may more rods to

......hummm, well you guys have the rods a little mixed up but I can't remember enough about them to totally straighen the confussion up..... The first two digets are the tensil strength.... 6010 means the rod has 60,000 tensil strength.... 7018 has 70,000 tensil strength..... The third diget is the position that the rod welds in. 1 {one} is an all position rod. So the 1 {one} in 6010 or 7018 means that it is an all position rod {meaning flat, vertical, horizonital & overhead}. The 2 {two} in 7024 is flat or horizonital..... And finally the last {forth diget} is the material that the rod is made of. The 8 {eight} in 7018 is a low hydrogen rod. The 4 {four} in 7024 is an iron power rod.....

So, of the rods that you've mentioned below;

1) the 7024 is the iron power one that is for flat & horz, you drag it in a straight line & the flux just sort of pops up in one piece behind the weld. They use is a lot on barges & ships. If I remember correctly you run it really hot....

2) the 7018 & 7016 are low hydrogen rods. 70,000 tensil strenght so these produce very strong welds. You don't osolate with them {meaning you don't go back & forth, in & out of your puddle as you weld forward}. All position rods.

3) the 6010 & 6013 rods are; 60,000 tinsel strength, all position, general purpose rods. You run them on DC reverse polarity. 6010 you osolate with, 6013 more of a drag straight forward..... {I have heard of a new type of 6010 rod that runs better}....

4) the 6011 & 6013 rods are just like the 6010 & 6013 except you run them on AC {sort of your garage 'buzz box' equilent of 6010)...... 60,000 tensil strength, all position, general purpose, osolate with the 6011 & straight with the 6013.....

6010 is what they used to do the root pass {1st. pass} with it the oil fields on pipe lines. And 7018 for the cover passes...... 7018 is not as good when you have a gap like 6010 is, that's why they use it for the root pass.

What I've listed above is what the BOOK tells you so of course if you weld your car frame on AC with 6010 rod {a DC rod} it will be just fine. In some cases what the book says can pretty much be egnored. BUT, lets say with 7024 rod I would not use it on my car frame & certainly not in a possition thats not flat or horz. It's just easier to use the rod that is correct for what your doing.... Although an experienced welder can grab pretty much any rod an make it work one way or the other! ...... I guess why I'm sharring all this is so folks will check with the book or the welding supply store BEFORE just grabbing any old rod & trying to make it work. It's A LOT easier for a welder that's not a pro to get the correct rod for the job. It maked your finished product look A LOT PRETTIER..... bILL

no i do not think what i said is wrong all rods listed you can weld with a ac buss box but the 6010 and you need one pass welding a car frame

Yeah your correct about the new rod for 6010. It's a bit better. Well guess I am done here, I don't see the guy posting anymore and I feel like I am talking to a wall now.