Thread: electrical draw

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I just recently bought a 85 s-10 blazer that has a 406 chevy and alot of wiring. it has a 6+ ignition box and a amp sub woofer and all electrical after market guages. I went for a ride the other day and I shut it off it wouldnt start back up it sounded like the battery was dead so i went a borrowed 1 and it fired right up. So i took the battery to my local auto zone and had it tested and they said they cant test a battery with no charge they had to charge it and retest it and hte battery ened up beig a good 1 so the next day i took the alternator out and had it test and that ended up being good and when i pull my ground from the battery post it archs out that tells me there is a electrical draw i check all my grounds and found a few bad ones clean up the area and reinstalled all the grounds and so far i have no arch in hte battery but did i really fix the problem could the starter be a bad 1 could it be pulling to much amperage the problem only appears to be there when the engine is warm but what is draining my battery only when the engine is running and the volt guage reads 14 volts the ignition box had a very bad ground but could that drain the battery when its running. the alternator is a 2 prong plug with 1 wire to the plug running to the field wire in the back and to the starter and the main battery wire running to the starter to the battery what am i missing here. can the alternator really work like this effiecently or no????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

Denny is right.

Also remember most street automotive systems are only 12 V. It does not take much contact impedance, say in the form of a poor ground or loose cable connector, before it falls on its face.

On my '97 1-ton truck in the summer I have to re-tighten the positive post on the battery frequently or when I turn the key on I get nothing!

Kitz