Thread: Brake problems

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You know I thought of that , but I don't know what the master cylinder is , because that's what came with it (the rolling chassis) . But I think that I have the push rod adjusted right , because it was worse before. Could be that I should get a dics/disc master cylinder and try it , hell at this point what do I have to lose.
Do you think that the way the master cylinder is plumbed is right???

A couple of thinks come to mind. The brake pipes should be 3/16". If 1/4" pipe is used you will get a pressure drop in the system. Make sure the brake pipe flares are a double flair. Single flares will crack and leak or suck air into the system. You don't mention what type of hose your running to the wheels. If it's an automotive hose from a production vehicle, check that theres nothing inside the hose blocking the fluid flow. If it's -AN hose, it should be -03 w/ teflon liner, and the proper fittings. Also check your banjo bolt/ hose/ sealing washer/calipier for fluid flow thru the fitting. Sometimes there isn't enough clearence between the bolt and hose, or between the end of the bolt and the inside of the calipier [the bolt bottoms out]. Hope this helps.

When I've had a problem like this in the past, I start with the basics and work rearward. First, plug off both outlets on the master and REMOVE ALL VALVES from the entire system. Pump the brake and hold it for 30 seconds. Do you have a hard pedal? If no, then the master is bad. If yes, then the master is good and you can move on to the next test. Hook up the front calipers, leaving the plug in the master where the backs hook in. Pump the brake and hold it for 30 seconds. Do you have a hard pedal. If no, then the front calipers are at fault. If yes, reconnect the rear brakes and pump and hold the brake for 30 seconds. Do you have a hard pedal? If no, then the rear calipers are at fault. If yes, then one of the valves are at fault.