Thread: Body work and some concerns..

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Bondo is gooey, sticky stuff, not as firm as Play Dough. You have to mix a hardener with it and then it hardens rapidly. Read the instructions on the can or you will have problems... You might want to mix up a small amount and just spread it on a piece of scrap metal or cardboard and watch what it does. That way you will know what to expect. For a rust-through like you have, do not use regular bondo. Regular body filler contains talc as a filler. Yes, the same stuff that's in baby powder - it absorbs moisture and, if moisture can get to the area from the back side it will eventually cause more rust. Use a product like Dynaglass or Kitty Hair which contains pulverized glass fibers and is completely waterproof. It works like bondo, just a little harder to sand.

Someone else already said to find some books, etc. and get some instruction that way - that's good advice. There are also videos available that can help. I've been doing bodywork for 43 years. Most of it is not difficult once you have learned the basics, but it can be tedious and frustrating sometimes, especially to a beginner. Don't expect instant results; just take your time and be patient and don't give up. If you screw something up, just grind it out and do it again...

Body filler is only meant as a cosmetic aid. It is not strong enough to replace the sheetmetal. If you "bondo" over significantly weakened areas, temperature changes, vibration, and flexing of the metal will cause cracking.

Well we'll see what it looks like when I pull the glass and wire brush it. Thanks again D:

You mentioned the welder does not have 'autofeed'. so I suspect it is a TIG. Tigs are great for delicate work, but you'll need to use a filler rod which takes a bit more co-ordination compared to a wire feed ( MIG ). As for the rear window, you could be in for some work, but it doesn't look too, too bad. Worst case scenario, you can make cardboard templates and replace the steel in pieces. Use 18 or 16 guage steel, it will be easier for your novice weld skills. ( otherwise I'd recommend 20 - 18 ga ) Remember always tack it in first, then weld in short runs of an inch or so, and stagger the welds to disperse the heat. Wiping it down with a wet rag as you go can help. Put too much heat in and you'll warp the steel. Pin holes can be spot welded with a filler rod, then ground flat.

if you don't like the idea of re-forming the window channel from pieces, you could get a video on hammer forming, make a form using high-density particle board, and beat the steel into an exact replacement shape. ( but now you're back to 20 ga ) * larger # = thinner steel *

If you end up having to make a 'temporary' patch job, think fiberglass. It is real easy to work, and will hold up for years.

Turns out that i got a good look at it the other day from the trunk and i didn't feel any rust through it seems like its just pin holes and the top is bubbles that i can fill in.