Thread: RPU wiper shenanigans---

Tweet

Hi Brian,
I too hope you have a good trip. I do not know your itinerary, but if you come down I-95 (and make it through the DC-Frederickburg delay zone; the world's longest narrow parking lot!) maybe you could stop off at Exit 68B, Atlee-Elmont, just north of Richmond. I am literally about 100 yards from I-95 but have some trees as a buffer for the constant swishing of traffic. Make a right at Route US 1 and turn right at a narrow lane marked Old Telegraph Road and stop in at 10500 in my long gravel driveway! It looks like I will have to drill through the header bow if I want to use the wiper motor I have. In the first picture I have just placed the header on the top irons but back about two inches so you can see the width of the header and the length of the shaft. It does look like I can drill through the header oak at the stock indent in the bow and there the shaft will be long enough. However that means the motor will flop back with the top when it is folded back and maybe I can get the top folks to make a little bag like a knife sheath for the wiper blade to keep it from snagging the top material, but it looks like the only way I can use this motor with this header bow is to drill through it and mount it on the wood instead of the top of the windshield frame. that means I will have to figure out some way to route the wires along the top irons. The second picture is just to show the neat stainless top bows I got from Bratton's Model A parts. Regarding the frame for the back window it turns out that Bratton's offers a 20" wide frame for $187 for a Sport Coupe compared to the $220 roadster frame which is only 17" wide. I think I will get the wider, cheaper frame to get a slightly better rear view. Anyway it looks like I will have to do some careful carving on the bow and maybe I can do it with my Dremel tool and some care counting on the fact that the work will be on the underside of the bow.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder