Thread: Torque Wrench

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Ok, went into BURSON tools n auto parts to see how a good torque wrench was (my mate recomended a Warren and Brown wrench, he's had his for 30 years and no problems just gets it re-calibrated every now n then) and for a Warren And Brown was $331.00 Is this a good price to pay? or can anyone recomend a good torque wrench?

Thanks alot ben.

Do you have Snap On in Australia? They sell one for about $ 400 that does everything but check your pulse.

Don

Yeah we do. ok will defently check them out. lol, does the pulse checker come seperate lol.

It is an option. You know Snap On, they have a tool (expensive) for everything.

On of our techs bought the one I mentioned, and he loves it. It is self calibrating, and measures in various units. He is a tool nut, and owns just about everything on the Snap On truck, so if he thinks it is good, it probably is.

Good luck.

Don

Oh, and it vibrates in your hand when you reach the desired torque. No more clicking.

We have three sizes of W&B torque wrenches
small 3/8" inch lbs/ nm
medium 1/2" 10-200 ft lbs
big 3/4" +1" drive up to 750 ft.lbs
I think they are great
The dual signal you can see and hear when you reach the torque
hank

Working in the calibration industry for 30 years I can tell you right now that there is no such thing as a self calibrating anything.

By self calibrating, I meant it zeros out to absolute zero after each use. It also reads Newton, inch, and foot lbs. Sorry, you calibration guys get so testy sometimes.


Don

Not trying to lecture guys, but torque is a very touchy subject and is one I actually somewhat an expert on. You need to be very careful. I've seen technicians use torque wrenches improperly for years. It is very easy to over torque a fastener even when using the best wrenches. I can line up 10 different technicians on my calibrator and tell them to apply torque using a clicker type wrench and get 10 very different indications on my calibrator. The most consistent type of wrench is called a slip type, which basically slips when the desired setting is reached instead of clicking.

The usable range of any torque wrench is from 20%-80% of the range of the tool. Any thing outside of the usable range and the accuracy diminishes significantly.

Everyone should also remember to turn your clicker wrenches to the zero setting after use or during storage to prevent the internal spring from compressing over time. Never store your wrench with tension applied to the internal spring!

And yes Snap-on is a very good wrench. The Torq-O-Meter type is their best. The clicker type are not quite as good. Of course its the clicker types that everyone has in their toolboxes right? Yeah me too. I've also seen Craftsman wrenches last nearly as long. However you never know when on goes bad unless it is a mechanical failure.

Even with all that its not unusual to see them 5-10% out of tolerance after 6 months of use. It just depends on how heavily they are used and how they are used and by whom. Its a really good idea to have them calibrated every year.

I'm off my rant now.

Corvette64
I remember about 35 yr ago I was rebuilding an ammonia compressor and we had to use an extension to do some of the torque setting. I don't recall just who we contacted but they gave us a formula for using extensions to get the proper torque setting. Seems the extensions will twist a % and if not allowed for nothing is right. That machine had poured babbit bearings and I didn't want to do that job twice.

Hey Corvette64, just pulling your chain a little on that calibration stuff. Hope you got the rib.

Actually, I'm happy to see you back on the forum. I think you got a little PO'd a while back and left? I thought your posts were informative and well presented.

If my memory on that is wrong, sorry. That's what happens after 60.


Don

There is a differance if the bolts are dry or oiled also.

Well ive always believed that you get what you pay for. Top dollar = Top tools. everyone wants top tools that will last. its a just a matter of finding out what is the best?

thanks Ben.

I personally like the degree method of tightening. It is very accurate. Thats how you have to torque the mains down on the LS1's. This makes it so that the bolts are all the exact same depth because you force your way through any blockages in the hole. Just use a breaker bar and the degree wheel and turn the bolt down the the desired degree. There's no clicking, slipping, or w/e.