Thread: brake plumbing questions for my T bucket

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I'm not an expert.
but I drive a few cars (buick,chevy,ford,dodge )
and they all stop.
I'm not sure about all models but the ones I've worked on .
" Yes " it does just sit there ,the pedal holds it in , the rubber boot holds some "when new" but it's just a dust cover .
Sounds to me you need to do some adjusting /longer rod/a stop on the pedal / something (quote > to keep my brake pedal from falling forward and pulling out the rod) . hope that helps.

T L

should I use a stop pin type deal, or a spring thingy? above the floor or under? thanks for the help here folks!

Originally Posted by braundc

does the same logic apply with a tandem MC as on the Dual? I thought a proportioning valve adjusted the fluid flow to the drums to even out the front-to-rear braking? thanks for the help.

it does do that kind of, it lessens the preassure to the rear drums to accomadate for drum brake self energization, a dual proportioning valve can be comsidered a combination valve, there is the prop valve and a preassure differential switch in it ( maby more depending on how many valves and what valves the brake system needs ) which the preassure differential switch will light up the red brake light and shuts off flow of the side with the preassure drop

You should have a return spring on your brake pedal, so that after you apply the brakes and then take your foot off the pedal, the pedal returns to a "no brakes on" position. There should be a positive stop to prevent the brake pedal from returning too far, or yes, your brake actuator rod that goes into the master cylinder will indeed "fall out". The correct way to set things up, is to have your brake pedal held in position against this "positive stop" by the return spring, (brakes completely "off"). The clevis end of the "brake actuator rod" is attached to the brake pedal "lever" . Loosen the jam nut next to the clevis, and unscrew the rod untill it is seated in the back of the piston in the master cylinder---not seated hard enough to actually move the piston, just in contact with it.---Then turn the rod back the other way about 1/2 turn. Then tighten the jam nut against the end of the clevis. Now the rod can not fall out, because the pedal can't move back any farther (remember, its against the return "positive stop"). There are about 400 ways to make a "positive stop" for the returned position, ---one of the easiest being a spacer welded to the top side of the brake lever that will contact the underside of the floor.