Thread: 50f1 On S-10 Frame Help

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I would like any info on this project anyone could offer i have a 50 f-1 with a bad frame would like to know how to set the fenders and bed on the s10 frame

See Lakota's thread at:

http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sho...ota+s-10+frame

He's done it and has a site for it.

I read Lakotas artical thats what got me started on wanting s-10 frame i understand what he says about it as far a the cab but he hasnt put any more info on his site. I sent him an e-mail but havent heard anything back. I would like to have as much info as i can get before i start the truck thank you for your feed back im new to this computer forum stuff. it sure bets going through 15 years of old Hot Rod books to find what you want to know. Hundreds of heads are better than 1.

Rusty,
I did send you an e-mail about how to handle the bed and front fenders. Look in your Bulk Mail, it may be there. I used the listing from this site. It may even be in here as a private message.

My son and I went through the process of doing the bed and front fenders while taking pictures to update and complete the site. I told him to take it to the photo place to have them developed. He went over to goof off with his friends instead, and somehow lost the film. I told him that we would have to tear it all down and redo it. Then he's all excuses and no time. I tore it down by myself three weeks ago. Without my knowledge he loaned my $280 camera to my daughter and her husband. I haven't seen it since. I tried to do it with the help of a friend and a Wal-Mart cheapo camera....Can you say BLUUUURRR???? It's back down again. This time I'll explain how to do it verbally.

HEA LAKOTA
Never got your message or my son did didnt tell me.I havent started on my truck yet like to get all info first. ill keep watch on your site cant weight to get started. I thank you for your site and your help.
RUSTY50F1

Ok, I'll put it here in a post so you can't lose it.

The bed is the easiest part. If you still have the bed flooring, remove it.
Set the bed on the frame with the front resting on the frame and the rear propped up under the frame. Get it square with the rear wheels. The square bar at the bottom of the bed under the tailgate is called the "rear sill". Cut or burn off the excess frame so that it is flush with the outside of the sill. Now cut a square notch in the frame so that the sill can slip into it. That means it will have a flat piece over the sill and a flat piece under the sill. Drill holes and bolt it. For the front of the bed, lift it and insert a 2" spacer. Drill holes and bolt it. Because the S-10 frame has a 7" kick-up, you'll lose 3" in your bed depth. On my bed, I measured and tack welded angle iron around the inside of the bed, and laid a single sheet of marine plywood. Later, I'll replace that with a chromed diamond plate floor.

The front fenders are not so easy. At the front of the frame there are two circular body mounts. Cut the frame just behind those mounts.
In the F-1 series the inner fenders were bolted to the radiator mount in the front and the cab cowl in the rear. Then the fenders were bolted to the inner fenders, with a brace in the front and bolted to the running boards in the rear.
Since I used a different radiator, I had to fabricate my own radiator support out of angle iron. Across that support I bolted another piece of angle iron the width of the front end. The ends were bolted to the panels behind the headlights. This is the front support. The rear of the fenders were bolted directly to the cab. The inner fenders were trimmed with a tin snip to conform to the S-10 frame, then mounted in the usual manner.
Keep in mind all of this took time and careful measurements. The inner fenders, cab cowl, and headlight support panels are slighly different between a 1950 and a 1952 F-1, therefore my measurements will do you no good. If your off by 1/16" your hood will not open and close properly. You need to make your own measurments.
Speaking of hoods. I don't know about yours or anyone elses, but my hood lacked strength. All hoods have a bracket across the wide part just in front of the firewall, some even have corner braces at the very front. This is great support from side to side. I have yet to see any supports from front to rear. My hood was as limp and floppy as the wrist on a 'Frisco Faggot. I was afraid I'd kink it opening and closing it. I used flat stock on the inside on the backside of the chrome hood spear. The bolts are hidden by the chrome piece. Strengthen your hood, they're hard to come by.

Originally Posted by lakota

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My hood was as limp and floppy as the wrist on a 'Frisco Faggot.

I thought you'd get a kick out of that. I got a million of 'em