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Thread: Wheel Hop
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Stu Cool's Avatar
    Stu Cool is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Olivehurst, CA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '53 Studebaker Custom w/LS1
    Posts
    1,900

    It looks to me like you also have 2 inch(at least) lowering blocks on there and that is compounding the problem. It gives the axle extra leverage against the spring. I also have them on mine and experience similar problems. If you wish to retain the leaf springs, I suggest you have them re-arced to set your ride height where you want it. That will take some of the bow out of the springs and bring the traction bar up closer to the spring. Also those look like just clamp on bars, they are not as effective as the Lakewood type that actually replace the lower spring pad and have the U-bolts going through it. The Cal-trac bars Richard mentioned also replace the lower plate and I have heard very good things about them. If you are really serious about making your suspension work, you need to get rid of those lowering blocks.

    On mine I have decided to bite another bullet(having bitten several already!) and install a triangulated 4 bar. Mine will be with an air suspension so I can look cool when parked and still have clearance and performance when on the road. All it takes is $$$$

    Pat
    Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!

  2. #2
    shoprat's Avatar
    shoprat is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Orange
    Car Year, Make, Model: 57 RANCHERO
    Posts
    261

    If you're gonna run leaf springs you can deleaf them for ride height put full
    floaters on the housing so the housing can twist by itself and run 4 bars to
    keep the thing in place. The bars you have will do nothing witn any HP at
    all.

    Good Luck, Ron

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