Thread: First timer, update of 48 Chevy 1/2 ton

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My first time to try this so bare with the basic question. I want to put a modern power train (V8 & auto) and suspension under my newly acquired 48 Chevy 1/2 ton to make a reliable daily driver. I would prefer to get a suitable donor vehicle for the complete frame and power train replacement - any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

Welcome to the forum. These early Chev trucks make great street rods, and the engine room seems big enough to hold just about anything. A friend had one with a Pontiac 389 in it, and that fit ok.

Some of the members may be able to give you exact specifics for this swap, but generally, the plan you outline to get a donor car and swap stuff over is one we have discussed on here, and is a great way to go. I could be proven wrong by someone who has done it, but I think swapping the entire frame and suspension might prove harder than just modernizing the existing parts. Reason I say that is because it is hard to find another frame and running gear that has the exact dimensions you will need in wheelbase, tread, width of frame, position of radiator in relation to front axle centerline, etc.

S10 frame swaps have become popular, and I think I remember one of our members saying he did almost the exact truck you have that way. But even if you just go for the engine, trans, rear axle, and some other pieces, a donor is a very good way to accomplish it and save some money.

Good luck,


Don

If you consider the frame in thirds, there is the front, middle and rear thirds. I would approach this by cutting away the front and rear thirds, leaving the middle (stock) third of the frame under the truck. I would then find an S10 donor truck and take the front and rear thirds out of the frame and graft them onto the middle third of the recipient frame. This way, you will have all the body mounts left in the proper position. Now granted, the front sheet metal will have to be re-mounted and sometimes that is a bear, but it is not an impossible task in the whole scheme of things. So, you will have a late model front suspension and a home for a small block Chevy (everybody makes mounts and such for a SBC/S10 swap). You will also have a late model rear suspension that will accept improvements such as Caltrac bars, etc. To mount the transmission to the middle (old) part of the frame, you will need the middle part of the frame crossmember from a donor car or truck that will bolt up to the transmission you are going to use and the two outer ends (again, one third for the middle and one third for each end of your new crossmember) from the original crossmember that will bolt to the frame rails of the original middle third of the frame. Now, bolt the two pieces that match up with the middle third of the frame to the old frame. Position the motor and trans in the truck and bolt the center third of the crossmember to the transmission. Now, weld the three pieces together and you will have a crossmember that will bolt to the frame on the sides and to your new transmission in the middle. Cool, no?

Will a s-10 limit you to a small block,will a big block work in a s-10? Would grafting a Mustang II front suspension work just as good with out cutting the frame up?The rear suspension in the old truck and the s-10 are the same right,leafs?

"will a big block work in a s-10?"

I have heard of someone doing it, but I would think it would be a bear. With a small block in there, the steering shaft is right up against the exhaust manifold.

"Would grafting a Mustang II front suspension work just as good?"

Maybe better. You wouldn't have to fab up a core support to hang the front sheet metal on and a big block would probably fit much easier.

"The rear suspension in the old truck and the s-10 are the same right,leafs?"

Yep.

Couple of years ago a guy had a Blazer (S 10 sized one) at Daytona, and it had a big block under the hood. Let's just say I bet he doesn't change sparkplugs very often, but it did tuck down under there. It was really amazing to see it fit.


Don

these guys are right the s10 is the way to go.. a friend of mine put a 59 chevy pu right on the frame, he said it went right on, a 48 chevy is a little different though.. ive also seen big blocks in s10 its tight but it can be done...

im putting a 56 dodge pu right on a caprice frame and its tough

good luck

Harmon

I do not like the appearance of a S-10 IFS for the 47-54 Chevy trks. The track on the S-10 is too narrow & the wheels will tucked in too far in my opinion(taking about the front). The Original track of the trk. was 58", which matches the GM g-body cars(Malibu,El Camino,Regal....etc.). Do a Google of S-10 - AD frame swap & you can see some. There is also a kit to help w/the S-10/AD trk frame swap for $1k. This would be the quickest & the easiest to pull off especially if you bought the kit.

You could also use a Must II, however having done both(along w/the S-10 frame swap), I prefer the GM clip.

For the rear suspension I use Crysler 5th ave. leaf springs with their front & rear hangers. If you prefer a stiffer ride you can use station wagon springs or order a rear leaf spring kit from C.E. The ride of a spring is proportional to it's ability to store energy so the best ride is from a torsion bar then....large coils,leaf springs then coil overs.

A you can tell I like using salvage yard stuff.

Don Meyer

I always thought you would lose half , if not more,of the resale value chopping up the frame?Before we argue about which way is right the right way is which ever you decide,just look at all angles before taking the big leap.

So it sounds like the S-10 is one option. Since this is a 6 cyclinder frame does it handle the weight of a small block & auto OK?

Don, on the g-body cars were you talking about a front end clip or frame swap? I have no problem with a salvage yard.

The seldom talked about s-15 is a much better deal,the frame is longer,more to chop and work with,and its a little stronger and has a better suspention too!!!

I was talking about using the G-body front clip...... The S-15 mentioned is better than a S-10 (I'm thinking the Blazer is a S-15). They do not kick-up in the rear as far as the S-10 & the frame is already boxed in. With the S-10 the rear kicks up so far that the floor of the bed has to be raised. With both the wheel base has to be changed. You also have to buy the long wheelbase & shorten it. The std. 2 doors have to be lengthened which is much harder than shortening a extended cab.

I still think the G-body IFS w/Crysler rear leaf springs is hard to beat, however the S-10 requires less skill to pull it off correctly & the Must II w/a C.E. rear leaf kit can be done the easiest( 2 weekends & it's done). It also is the most acceptable method. I just like using junk yard parts & all the fab work required to make it work. It's what street rod building is all about for me.
Dare to be different.

As far as cutting the frame reducing the value, I do not think it's a issue with too many people.

I'm currently working on a '51 Chevy pu, and due to space considerations I went with a MII front end with a 4-bar/coil-over rear. So far it's been pretty easy. If I had the space I would have gone with an S-10 frame. Cost, complexity and space are all factors to look at. Which ever way you choose to go, have fun with it.