Thread: Roadster Stuff

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I've been putting off the additional engine oil filtration issue for a while. I tried the 90 degree angle adapter that Ford offers. It worked OK but looked mickey mouse. Since the engine is not highly modified and is small displacement wise and dimensionally, have at least temporarily, decided that the stock location will need to suffice at least until I get the body back on and everything mounted so I can check physical clearance for hoses, fittings and filters. The unfortunate thing that disturbs me is that I do have to use a shorter filter element than the standard. We'll see !!!

I've about made up my mind that an H pipe is not necessary. I will have to move the mufflers back 6 to 8 inches to find a proper location for the H pipe.
Depending on how my painting goes will determine when (or if) this happens.
It's starting to get chilly here, limiting my painting hours.

As a note, you appear to be using Fram filters. You might want to look at this: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html

This guy is not a fan of Fram filters. I used to be until I started having some problems on my last F150 - this one has seen nothing but Motorcrafts and no problems. Might just have been a bad run, but working on a Ford F150 w/ 5.4 ain't no fun. (Especially changing plugs!!!)

If you aren't looking for additional filtration, but just oil filter clearance, there is a Volvo oil filter that is very short and screws right onto the Ford base. I have run one on my '27 and my Jeep for years, and it works fine.

I never remember the filter number, but when you look in the Fram or Purolator book at the auto store, it is the same filter used on just about every Volvo ever made. They used it for years.

This might help someone doing a Ford engine swap.

Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

If you aren't looking for additional filtration, but just oil filter clearance, there is a Volvo oil filter that is very short and screws right onto the Ford base. I have run one on my '27 and my Jeep for years, and it works fine.

I never remember the filter number, but when you look in the Fram or Purolator book at the auto store, it is the same filter used on just about every Volvo ever made. They used it for years.

This might help someone doing a Ford engine swap.

Don

Thanks Don - I'm have a Motorcraft FL400 on the engine now but will take a look at the Volvo as well. The filter I have on there now is a real tight fit. I think that the Volvo, if I think what it is is about 1/2 the size of the FL400 at about 2inches - saw a really short one on a Ford 302 motored A at the Burlington NSRA show a couple of weeks ago - but never found the owner to ask him.

Yep, that's what it is. The Volvo filter is about 2 inches deep and solves a lot of clearance problems with a sbf. Like I said, everytime I go to buy one I just look in the book under Volvo, and almost every car they make uses this one filter, and that is the one. I think like 28 or 38 something or other is the first two numbers.

Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

Yep, that's what it is. The Volvo filter is about 2 inches deep and solves a lot of clearance problems with a sbf. Like I said, everytime I go to buy one I just look in the book under Volvo, and almost every car they make uses this one filter, and that is the one. I think like 28 or 38 something or other is the first two numbers.

Don

Don,

I just did a web search using a '95 Volvo as my basis:

Fram = PH 7328
Puruolator = L17019

Wix and Bosch also make 'em as do a couple of furrin' companies.

Bingo, I'm dyslectic sometimes.

Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

Bingo, I'm dyslectic sometimes.

Don

Close - just missing a couple of numbers -

Nice thing about internet searches is that if it's wrong, it's someone elses fault - tho I've "never" found a wrong answer in a search.

Now, I have a spare bridge to sell - and since I sold my last piece of Florida swampland a year ago....... (yep, I did, in Ft Myers)

I've about made up my mind that an H pipe is not necessary. I will have to move the mufflers back 6 to 8 inches to find a proper location for the H pipe.
Depending on how my painting goes will determine when (or if) this happens.
It's starting to get chilly here, limiting my painting hours.

You can put the H-pipe just about anywhere you want - long as it's in front of the mufflers - if all you're after is sound attenuation. Additional performance is a different situation. There, the H-pipe needs to be in the optimum location.



As a note, you appear to be using Fram filters. You might want to look at this: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html

I read about Fram's not-so-good filters some time back. Started using WIX. The Frams are on there cuz I had a bunch of them in the locker and am using them up. I'm pretty good about oil changes on the roadster . . . every 3000 miles and since they are dual filters I'm probably doing ok there. I note that in the last couple of years there are two Fram oil filters that are said - on the box fwiw - that they are improved. Haven't really pursued that, but I wonder if they really are.


This guy is not a fan of Fram filters. I used to be until I started having some problems on my last F150 - this one has seen nothing but Motorcrafts and no problems. Might just have been a bad run, but working on a Ford F150 w/ 5.4 ain't no fun. (Especially changing plugs!!!):eek

I have a 2002 SuperCrew F150 with 5.4.
Haven't changed the plugs yet.
So far, 51,000 miles - including towing a 20' box trailer with roadsters and shop inside for three different trips through the desert in August - no problems.
So far, all I've done to it - besides oil changes and routine maintenance - is replace the front disc brake pads.
It's a nice truck and Sweetie calls it here . . . in fact, she picked it out....

Originally Posted by C9x

I have a 2002 SuperCrew F150 with 5.4.
Haven't changed the plugs yet.
So far, 51,000 miles - including towing a 20' box trailer with roadsters and shop inside for three different trips through the desert in August - no problems.
So far, all I've done to it - besides oil changes and routine maintenance - is replace the front disc brake pads.
It's a nice truck and Sweetie calls it here . . . in fact, she picked it out....

I know - wrong forum, but...- take a look at your ball joints. Mine went to heaven at about 50K miles as have most other Ford F150 P/U owners that I have talked to. If they need replacement, get the greaseable MOOGS - Ford will only replace with OEM 'in-kind'.

As a DIY project, uppers and lowers are about $350 plus any new tools that you might need, a $60 alignment and a day's really dirty work. Ford quoted me over $1200 !!!!!! (mine is a 4x4)

My bad ball joints cost me a set of crappy Goodyear RTS (that were so hard after 15K miles/2 years that they would spin on a road dividing line).

I have room so will be moving the mufflers back ~8" and putting a 2" 'H' pipe just in front of them. This is for sound attenuation - any power increase on a street driven car is only in the mind anyhow.

I don't know how I missed this thread before but I need to study a lot of stuff here. Both C9x and Ireland's Child are way better than what I have been doing and I sort of regard C9x as my Pro-to-emulate. Anyway here is an old picture of my drive loop on my Brookville frame with the rectangular tubing (2 1/2"x1 1/2") crossmember added. The body is now on and I have to hang the parking brake cable from a clamp to the underside of the floor to keep it away from the drveshaft (8" rear). At present I am stuck messing with the firewall and scoping out the steering column. I broke down and ordered a tilt column from Brookville but I am still tentative about cutting the hole for the column. It looks like I am pretty much done doing any fiberglass work in my unheated garage for a few months so I am relying on bolting in my new small trans tunnel as a floor board and depending on bolts. I am trying to use all fiberglass or stainless to avoid future rust. Anyway here is the very stout driveshaft loop picture. I don't think I have shown this picture before. At the time I wondered if this was necessary but I opted on the side of safety. I will be needing future suggestions about installing my gas line so I hope I don't become a pest. I wish there was someone else on the FORUM building a 'glass roadster since I have run into quite a few surprises along the way, but you guys are really good with the metal bodies!

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

In earlier parts of this thread there was a discussion of gas tanks. I ordered and then canceled the order for saddle tanks due to my long rough driveway. I wanted a rumble seat since for me that is the essence of a roadster so I measured a stock rumble seat and made a cardboard tank that will allow a little padding and farmed out the work to Rock Valley for a stainless tank with the fill cap inside the left rear seat area. I still have room for a spare tire in front of the "seat" and leg room for one passenger, but I like the idea C9 gave about an aluminum dust bulkhead. I am quite satisfied with the strength and rigidity of the 1" aquare tubing BeBops put under the fiberglass rear deck and this really firmed up when I added a protective steel plate 4" wide by 1/4" thick across the rear quarter panel tube braces. That greatly strengthened the rear of the body and should give protection to the tank along with the stainless stock bumpers I got from Bratton's Model-A parts. Thus I show a somewhat dark picture of the 13.3 gallon tank bolted in place but yet without a fuel line to the engine. Since the tank is above the fuel pump I would like to add a cutoff valve in the fuel line but have not found one yet. Also I already have a welding cable (No. 0) along the right rear frame to the starter from the rear battery and am pondering whether to just install the gas line along the same rail but below the hot wire?? Here is the picture of the seat-tank.

Don Shillady
Retired SCientist/teen rodder

Well I often have trouble uploading pictures so let me try again for the dark picture of the rumble-seat tank. Hey, is there no one else on the FORUM building a 'glass body? I think C9x has a Gibbon '32 ( ? ) but I missed any pictures of his build and it seems as if all the other roadsters on the FORUM are metal?

Don Shillady
Retired SCientist/teen rodder

Hey, while I am here can you roadster guys comment on how I could hide my battery a little better? I looked at C9's right rear installation but to me it seemed to hang down close to the bottom of the rear four bar and would compromise the muffler on the right side so I put the battery box in the middle of the flattened U-section of the rear frame. I thought the rear bumper would hide it better but not so. I also have a rear roll pan which would cover about half of the battery but that would make it very hard to service the battery. Lately I have seen an expensive, fancy battery box with a shiny stainless cover and wonder if I should change over to a gaudy battery box using the idea that if you have to see it it might as well be pretty? Maybe I should just make a metal cover and paint it black or body color? I think a black plate might be a better idea rather than extend the body color down in an added rectanglular panel that would call more attention to the battery, Comments?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Originally Posted by Don Shillady

Hey, while I am here can you roadster guys comment on how I could hide my battery a little better? I looked at C9's right rear
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don,
NICE car

Since it appears that you have used the rumble area for the gas tank, why not put the battery there as well. With my '31, which has a trunk, I have decided that since there isn't enough room for a spare, I'll use one of Speedway's Optima holders - or you can get a fancy one from O'Brien Truckers. This only gives you the phone number - they don't have a web site yet http://www.obrientruckers.com/ . If you have a '32 frame, then you shold be able to put a drop out box somewhere - an 'A' frame - doubtful.

Somewhere I have a photo of the battery holder in the trunk taken before I stripped it out for paint but couldn't find it. The battery holder goes in the upper right corner, just above the rear end. The upholstery was actually before the final primer - and now I'm in deep do-do for paint because of temps here in upstate NY.

Lotsa interesting stuff here.

My 32's body is a Wescott fwiw.

The battery box on the 32 is inside the frame rail and the four bars are outside the frame rail - much like they are on an A.
No conflict problems between battery and four bar.

The 31 is going to be the same way except the four links on that car are inside the frame rail so the battery is between four link and driveshaft.
The driveshaft is fairly well contained within the two safety loops so I don't see any problems there if the driveshaft should come unglued.

Nice part about the battery where it is, is that the cables are shorter.
That works well since the 32's wiring is under the seat.
In fact, the battery cables are commercially made easily available 1/0 standard battery cables found at most any parts house.
The battery is somewhat visible when viewed from the side of the car, but it's not obtrusive and not noticed by most.
I like the battery down low and it makes for a better CG.

As far as the E-brake cables go, I had room to run mine between crossmembers and under floor bottom.
You can see where they start out in this pic.

Fwiw, I mounted the E-brake handle on the drivers side on the floor to the left side of the trans tunnel and back toward the seat.
Not as easy a reach as where most guys put them - which is on the right side of the trans tunnel, but the driver pretty much stays where he is and the passenger can use the extra leg room even if they're short like Sweetie is.