Thread: trying to learn something here

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went to a car show yesterday, and when i look at the cars i try to see whats close to what i have . i look at the carbs ,were they hook up the vac. to the dist. things like that. then i wait till they fire em up and see how they act when they go into gear. so many cars set their idling radically and when they go into gear you cant even tell, except for a 100 rpm drop, when i do that to mine it drops 3-400 rpms and sounds like it going to shut off,also as they pull out it sounds like there letting the clutch out but their automatics! what gives ? what do they know i dont? is it a black magic art, something kept behind closed doors locked up in secracy? thats the way i want my car to act, my cam aint nowere ads big as theirs i cant get this thing to act like that. i thought its my converter but lunati recomends 2400 stall i have a jegs 22-2600 . whats the difference between jegs and say b&m why does it cost 120.00 more did i do wrong bying a jegs converter or is my problem something else? i know techinspector said the cams to big for my dynamic compression,i had a lunati 218 458 lift and it acted the same way with a stock converter , just dont seem like i can get this black art, im afraid to go with say, jegs 10" 27- 3000 in case its to much converter ...heres my setup
87 chevy non vortec non roller block
stock pistons 8.5:1
.015 steel shim head gaskets[good for 4 more points compression
should give me 8.9:1
factory heads 194 int. 150 ex
cleaned up ports
screw in studs
comp cams roller tip rockers 1.5
performer rpm dual plane intake 15-6000
perfrmer rpm 600 cfm carb
stock hei dist
accel high volt coil
350 turbo with shift kit
10 bolt 373 gears
currently jegs 12" 22-2600 stall
its in a stock 83 z28 no emmisions no computer
lunati hydraulc flat
110 lobe sepperation
489-504 lift
227-233dur.@.050
268 276adv. dur
106 lobe center
come on guys ,i had to chicken peck this thread i need help here or am i just being hard headed? and it wont work . i know some of you guys have cars i described

Sounds like your idle speed may be high and the converter is closer to lockup than the other cars are.

You should be able to get the engine to idle at 600-650 rpm.

Looks like a reasonable combo for the street, if the car runs good I wouldn't worry about making sound like something it's not....

What is your RPM at idle?
Are you running power brakes? If so, you might not be pulling enough vacuum and may need to add a canister.

i have two choices idle at 850-900 in gear 550-600 idle at 1100 in gear 750idle in gear at550-600 barely idles more like chug the higher idle in gear hold foot on brake hard at light to keep it from rolling 15"vacume at 750 power brakes but dont seem to affect them

When I ran the dual quad setup on my 32 roadster with 462" Buick engine, Carter 500's, straight linkage, fairly big cam, MSD box, it idled at 650 rpm with no problems.

Converter is a 2400 rpm B&M.

Vacuum was about 12" at idle.

Holding the brakes on in traffic took normal pressures.
In fact, on my gravel driveway the car won't start rolling until it gets a little bit of throttle.

I don't understand your two idle level comments.
Seems like you could set it to idle anywhere iin between the two figures posted.

Perhaps a little more tuning is required.

Refer to the Edelbrock manual @ http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/eps_intro.html