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Thread: 56 chevy truck cab to a 1994 frame
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    56chevyboy's Avatar
    56chevyboy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 56 chevy truck
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    56 chevy truck cab to a 1994 frame

     



    will a 56 chevy cab bolt right up to a 1994 chassis if not what all will i have to do, any help would help me a great deal

  2. #2
    Firechicken's Avatar
    Firechicken is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 55 Chevy Cameo, 68 Pontiac Firebird
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    Well let me start by saying I don't know, but I really doubt it. What 1994 chassis are you refering to? Chevy/Dodge/Ford/Nissan/Toyota etc.? An S-10/S-15/Sport/Ranger/Tundra/Tacoma? A half ton C/K 1500/F-150? Or????? Need more information before I can give an intelligent response. In any event, I will say that I don't know of any chassis manufactured in '94 that a '55 2nd series - '59 Chevy truck cab will be a straight forward bolt on. The mount points for the cab on the frame will most likely not line up without at least some modification.

    For starters, I would measure the width/leangth of the frame rails to see if it is even close to the same, and would also need to measure from the center points of the wheels (leangth wise) to see if they are also close to the same. I would also measure from the center point of the front wheels to the leading edge of the frame rails, and from the center point of the rear wheels to the trailing edge of the frame rails. If all of those measurements are close, measure the leangth from the leading edge of the frame to the motor mounts to get some kind of idea if (and how much) I would need to make mods so that the engine isn't too far back/forward. If they do need to be moved, also check to make sure that the tranny cross member can be moved to the new location to compensate for the move without causing interferance or determine if I need to build a different cross member so that it would work. I would also measure to determine if there will be enough clearance for mounting things like master cylinder/brake booster where I would want them and also verify that there is going to be enough room and available geometry to connect the steering column to the steering box.

    I have probably missed a lot above and others can fill in the rest, but just off the top of my head, that's where I would start.

    I have a feeling though that I would have much more luck and much less work ahead of me by simply buying a Mustang II IFS kit and modifying a 55-59 chassis and being done with it.

    Good luck on your build,
    Dutch
    Sometimes NOW are the "good old days"...

  3. #3
    56chevyboy's Avatar
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    its a 94 1500 chevy frame thanks

  4. #4
    iceburgh's Avatar
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    I agree use the frame you have and use a Heidts or clip it with a camaro.
    That is what I did with a '51 and it was not bad at all.

  5. #5
    Stu Cool's Avatar
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    If eerything is the right dimension, putting an old vehicle on a modern frame is a great way to go. I have seen folks that not only used the modern frame, but the floors and the firewall also. That way you have all the later HVAC, steering and brake controls as well. If you start with a donor that is close to the same size you can really make a well riding vehicle. I don't care how good you are, you will be hard pressed to weld together frame pieces from mulitple cars or the aftermarket and come up with a better performing frame and suspension than one designed by the automakers. Not saying those can't be improved, but they are a great place to start from where everything is designed work together.

    Get to measuring and see how well it will fit.

    Pat
    Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!

  6. #6
    Firechicken's Avatar
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    The frame rails on the '56 are straight (level) with no rise or dips from front to back. If you look at that '94, you will see that the frame rails rise (from back to front) just aft of the front wheels. This will cause clearance problems for the bell housing of the transmission because the motor will rise up higher into the engine bay. Also, it may become very difficult to get a distributor into the engine block because of the lip area on the firewall cowl where the aft portion of the hood mates to the cab when the hood is closed.

    This is not something that can't be fixed obviously, you would have to do some modifications to the firewall area and quite possibly to the motor mounts, but it will not be as simple as bolting the cab to the frame and running it that way.

    Again, as stated before, if you are interested in going this route it is time to start measuring to get an idea where else you may run into problems.

    Like I said before, measure from the center point of the front wheel to the center point of the rear wheel and compare it to the same measurement of the '56. Next, measure the width of the frame rails from the outer edges, and again compare. Also measure from the front edge of the frame to the center point of the front wheel, and from the trailing edge of the frame to the center point of the rear wheels and compare all of those measurements with the '56.

    Because this is a '94 1500, and the frame rails rise take that into consideration as well when making the measurements so that you can determine how much the motor will rise up in the engine bay and how much you will need to modify the firewall to accomadate the change in position (raised) for the tranny. Other items like the radiator support and radiator (for example) will most likely also be affected due to the frame rail rise as well.

    In any event, this will give you some idea as to what you are facing (chassis wise) with this project.

    I still think that you would probably be better off with a Mustang II IFS kit for less than $2500.00 simply because all of the hardware/calipers/brake pads/rotors/shocks/a-arms etc. are all new. But it doesn't really matter what my opinion is, if it's what you want to do, I am certain that it could be done if the dimensions are close.

    Cheers,
    Dutch
    Sometimes NOW are the "good old days"...

  7. #7
    RUSTY50F1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Try an S-10 frame 83 up

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