Thread: anyone use panel adhesive?

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i just got a new car and the fender lip is starting to rust out on the drivers side quarter so im going to make a panel out of sheetmetal (18ga gonna be thick enough) and i plan on using the panel adhesive stuff.
has anyone used this and can you reccomend some products to me?

I've never used it for a small patch, but often have glued stuff in or replaced panels with it where I work. It is great for non structural peices and you aren't burning off corrosion protection with welding, and the adhesive itself will give protection to the seam. Only issue I've heard some people say was ghost line showing up in some cases when adhesive is used, There are many good panel adhesive manufacturers, some of the more common ones are lord fusor, 3m duramix , sem and usc. 18 gauge I would think wouild be a fine gauate for a patch. I use about that gauge for older vehicles, but it is a little more difficult to form by hand then 20 guage. Clamping gives the adhesive it strength so it should somehow be clamped or screwed in place while the adhesive cures. Both piece should be clean and ground. Lord.com has some repair procedures on there sight I believe if you look around. Getting the adhesive hot by welding to close (probably won't apply, but just as a warning) to the seam once cured I believe will comprimise the joint, this is how panels are removed by heating and softening glue with a heat gun. Another thing is you need a special gun to apply, and they are fairly pricey for a one time use, unless the place you buy adhesive from has a loaner gun. Again not your case, but when replacing large panels with adhesive, as far as I am aware, they still recommend placing a few spot welds at the front and rear areas of the panel.

I have used it many times, both on large and small panels. The duramix from 3M is very good, as well as the SEM brand. Both are very comparable. Any more questions feel free to email me.

I have seen articles on "Fusor" panel adhesive in which a patch installed using this product was beaten with a hammer until the patch panel tore, but the bond didn't let go. That being said, I think I'll stick with my mig. I think that there is some really awsome cleanliness preperation involved, and the patch panel has to be a perfect fit with a good overlapping flange all around.

guys first off thank you for your in depth opinions!
yeah 18ga isnt as easy to work with but my uncle can help me make it perfect
and as far as the "ghost line" im sure it happens but this car doesnt have to be totally perfect for me
and i plan on using the aircraft stripper to clean it with and i think im going to use the 3M stuff
once again, thanks guys i really appreciate the input!

We used a 3m product on the lolas, but we also riveted every panel on the chassis

Use Fusion and don't worry about ghost lines. Lords glue is far more superior to any of the other adhesives. Our shop uses it on a daily basis to glue aluminun structures together. Fit must be tight and all surfaces must be clean.

ok my car also has side moldings i want to get rid of. but it leaves holes when its removed, could i use this stuff to stick small pieces of sheetmetal in there to cover the holes(from the inside) then use filler over it?

ive seen bodyshops use this stuff and am amazed how tough it is when used correctly. i have a snowmobile that a shop had patched up some semi stuctural body parts with this stuff and it hasnt broke on it.
there also is some types that can be used to bond almuinum to steel and has a built in spacer in the mix to aleviate galvanic corrosion.