Thread: Stainless hose
-
10-18-2006 09:31 AM #16
I've used a combination of Earl's, Russell, Aeroquip and Summit fittings and any sort of combination of hoses - and I have the scars to prove it !!!
All were a pita, especially the -4 I'm using for the trans cooler.
This is a Speedway site, but I saw it demoed a while back slicken' -- (well you know what I mean):
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp...qx/Product.htm
I think C9 has more AN hose than I do, but I'm working on catching up.
(Someday the body and chassis will reunite - for the LAST time)Dave
-
Advertising
- Google Adsense
- REGISTERED USERS DO NOT SEE THIS AD
-
10-18-2006 09:51 AM #17
That should be a Canadian project. You could call it "The Hoser." Like the air cleaner, though.Jack
Gone to Texas
-
10-18-2006 11:24 AM #18
I cant believe you put that air cleaner on there ,now where are all those loose nuts and bolts gunna fall into?Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)
-
10-18-2006 11:51 AM #19
Originally Posted by shawnlee28Dave
-
10-18-2006 08:26 PM #20
Aeroquip is my favorite, tried some of the others but always came back to it....Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
-
10-20-2006 08:41 AM #21
Here is the website for the braided hose tool
http://www.koultools.com/Mike
'56 Ford F100
-
10-20-2006 05:39 PM #22
Braided Hose
[B]Mike:
To late for me on the tool to install the ferrel to the hose as I have finished the plumbing on my car after many frustrating hours.After much loss of blood and religion I found a process that worked for me.I took a piece of .010 dia.SS wire and twisted one loop around the braibed hose,cut close not to disturb the twist,cut the hose with a thin dremel wheel up close to the wire,twist the ferrel counter clockwise with slight pressure and as you are turning the wire slips back as the ferrel is going on approx.1/8 in. Cut the wire with a small wire cutter and presto no bleeding or choice words.Worked for me.
Don In Austin
-
10-21-2006 04:56 PM #23
Don,
Your method gave me an idea. I put a small hose clamp on the stainless, then used a cut-off wheel. When I loosened the hose clamp, the ferrule slipped right on. No blood, no problem.Jack
Gone to Texas
-
10-21-2006 05:10 PM #24
Say Jack I think thats what I said in reply#4Charlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
-
10-21-2006 06:36 PM #25
Charlie,
I'm supposed to remember more than three posts back? At my age?
The fittings went on OK, but it took me most of the day to run the two hoses. It would have been much easier if I'd seen the glitch in the trans cooler lines before everything was assembled. I switched from hard lines and rubber hose to stainless with banjo fittings on the trans. Luckily, I was able to use the same clamp mounting holes for the stainless that I did with the hardline. Still, I had to raise the front of the body (four times!) off the frame to get enough room to work.
I chopped a hole in the floor (see thread called "Thanks, Kyle . . ."), and I'm going to make an access panel so if anything ever goes wrong, I can get to the cooling lines without lifting the body - again.Jack
Gone to Texas
-
10-21-2006 07:06 PM #26
Yeah The best laid plans of mice and men. I wish I could say I only took the body back off my 53 4 times. I have a very small oil leak in the cooler line and I can't get at it. I may just rerout it. I'm just glad playing with cars is so much fun.Charlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
I wanted to complain about this NZ slang business, but I see it was resolved before it mattered. LOL..
the Official CHR joke page duel