Thread: where to get cab dipped?Texas

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I live in Dallas,and was wondring where to get the cab acid dipped?While I am at it ,where to get frame powder coated?

I know of a place in Mc Gregor that can powder coat your frame. Its called Crosslink powder coaters. Great guys really reasonable prices. I'll have to get back to you with the #

I will definitely give them a call.

Hmmm. I should know this one. I had my metal parts and frame dipped at a place on Singleton Blvd and Loop 12 back in the early 90's. I can't for the life remember the name of the place. I will try to remember to get into my receipts tomorrow and see if I can find a name for you. The guy had an entire 56 Olds convertible body in the vat when I dropped off my parts. He had paint stripping tanks and an acid vat for de-rusting too. The metal parts come out looking like brand new. It wouldn't surprise me if the location isn't an EPA superfund site now though.

Originally Posted by Corvette64

Hmmm. I should know this one. I had my metal parts and frame dipped at a place on Singleton Blvd and Loop 12 back in the early 90's. I can't for the life remember the name of the place. I will try to remember to get into my receipts tomorrow and see if I can find a name for you. The guy had an entire 56 Olds convertible body in the vat when I dropped off my parts. He had paint stripping tanks and an acid vat for de-rusting too. The metal parts come out looking like brand new. It wouldn't surprise me if the location isn't an EPA superfund site now though.

True about the EPA,if its not to much trouble I would like to know the name.

P.C.I. in Seagoville will powder coat it for you. I've used him before on a lot of assorted stuff, never a frame but he told me he has done many.
The dip shop is over in the Mid-Cities somewhere around Arlington or Grand Prairie. I had planned on using him on my frame but decided on having it glass bead blasted down in Johnson City for a whole lot less $$$.
jb

Originally Posted by John Brian

P.C.I. in Seagoville will powder coat it for you. I've used him before on a lot of assorted stuff, never a frame but he told me he has done many.
The dip shop is over in the Mid-Cities somewhere around Arlington or Grand Prairie. I had planned on using him on my frame but decided on having it glass bead blasted down in Johnson City for a whole lot less $$$.
jb

Ya I also got the frame blasted ,but thereare areas in the cab that I would (with light rust) like to get by dipping .Do you know of prices ,or name?

PCI does just black, or other colors?

He will do basic colors. There is another shop on Military Pkwy. in Mesquite I once thought about having a headache rack coated that could mix colors but I used PCI instead. I don't remember if price or what the reason was I used PCI.
PCI once quoted me a price but I don't remember what it was.
jb

I don't remember the dip place, just that it was over in the mid cities somewhere. I think I found it via the yellow pages. The prices were pretty high. There are rod shops around you could call. I'm sure they would know. I sometimes use Sachse Rod Shop over in Sachse near Garland. Their number is 972-495-1557.
jb

superior powder coat in stephnville does multi colors . they do frames .
make sure the place that dips it gives you a written warranty on paint problems . we decided to put in a blasting booth instead of having cars dipped. we dipped some model a's in the late 80's and dang near had to buy them. i use plastic media and starblast. surface rust is not a big problem as long as all the dirt and stuff is cleaned out.

Don't get it dipped because there will be places that are bare metal that you'll never get pain on again. There are a few places in Fort Worth that will do it though. E-coating after chemical treatment would be suggested.

On another note, Longhorn Powder coating in Fort Worth does great work at great prices.

Yeah ,I have heard steer clear of the chemical dip too.MY buddies 49 ford project looked really nice when it came back from being walnut blasted and has a good ruff finish to grab the primer and paint.Walnut shells are no joke either,there dang near hard as a rock , are easily removed from all the crevices where they gather and will not strip the finish from all the places you will not get paint into.
One of they key words after blasting or dipping is"encapsulate".A good primer /sealer /etcher , what ever is your preference needs to be thinned and shot or brushed into all the little crevices and let soak into the seams.I like to get the little cotton brushes on a wire , goop and smear it in all the nooks and crevices to where I can visually see the stuff seep thru the seams ,weep holes ,etc.Then put on a sealer coat with a brush , spray rig or cotton dobbers on both sides of all the seams,then shoot the primer sealer over the whole thing.Now you are ready to start the mock up or let it sit with out fear of rust.Then to do any body work ,panel repair ,you just sand to bare metal the area your working on and shoot primer /sealer ontop of that area when finished to seal it back up untill the final body prep,or your next session.

after blasting get into epoxy as soon as possible. no need for etch primer. just turn the fan down and flood the insides. let it run into holes and stuff. one of barry's tricks is to mix a qrt and pour it into the door [ off the car] and run it around all the corners. i was told by my abrassive supplier not to use walnut if it is to be painted. he stated there was still oil in the shells. anyway the starblast works better than anything else i've tried. it is very fine and gets the pits and cracks clean. i epoxy everything the next day. good luck.

if you use walnut hit it with 80 grit before shooting it.