Thread: Starting to look like a car.
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05-18-2007 07:46 PM #46
Finished the wiring. Everything works . . . first try.Jack
Gone to Texas
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05-18-2007 08:00 PM #47
Shocking!!!
Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon
It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.
Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.
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05-18-2007 08:11 PM #48
Originally Posted by Henry RifleOf course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!
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05-19-2007 08:03 AM #49
Jack,
Some more of Brent's problems with email posting updates again. I had lost the updates
The car looks great - and the wiring.....glad to hear that all went well.
I do feel your pain with a Gibbon body - probably something like mine with the Brookville. You just get tired of fixing their "quality" problems .
Are you going to have it ready for the Richmond NSRA show this year?
I've been trying to just finish prime and block. It will warm up for a day or so then back to the overnight 30's and 40's then to mid 50's for a high. Today, it will only be about 53 with rain - not a paint day. And I'm ready. Monday ---- maybeDave
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05-19-2007 09:59 AM #50
Dave,
I'm going to give it a try. My interior won't be done, but I'm going to put this sucker on the ground and drive it around the block - probably next weekend. No windshield, no rear window . . . I guess i'll call it a pseudo-roadster.
I need to wait to July to license it to take advantage of the new VA replica title.Jack
Gone to Texas
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05-19-2007 01:58 PM #51
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
I'll be looking forward to seeing a picture of it on the street. I might even make Richmond next year as we do have a daughter there.
I'm waiting for a new law in NY so I wont have to lie to register my car, but our wimp mixed party legislature will probably shelve it again.Dave
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05-20-2007 07:02 PM #52
It's ALIVE!
A few small glitches - two seeping fuel leaks at the carb, a problem with the electric choke, and the trans pan leaks at the drain plug. Oh, and it's apparently manditory to drop the distributor in one tooth off - even with everything marked. It ran with one tooth off, but I obviously couldn't get enough advance. I moved it over one tooth, and it started instantly. Idles at about 750 - 800, and drops to about 600 in gear. It's pretty lopey. The cam is the full roll GM "Hot Cam" (218/228 @ 0.050, .525/.525, 112 LSA) with 1.6 Roller rockers.
Next weekend, it goes on the ground.Jack
Gone to Texas
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05-20-2007 07:48 PM #53
Kewl, now that you're all done straightening out Kyle's mess, you can come do some blocking on the Merc's!!!! I bet by now you are highly experienced at block sanding fiberglass!!!!!!!!!!!! Sorry Jack, somebody had to say it......Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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05-20-2007 08:39 PM #54
Kewl, now that you're all done straightening out Kyle's mess, Oh, would that it were so. I still have the interior moldings . . .
If I never see another sanding block, it will be too soon.Jack
Gone to Texas
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05-20-2007 08:41 PM #55
Originally Posted by Henry RifleYesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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06-13-2007 05:12 PM #56
Well, I fixed my "too low" problem. I pulled the too-weak, too-short shocks that Gibbon supplied and replaced them with some polished Aldans with chrome springs. They brought the front end up so that I now have 4-3/4" under the pan instead of 2-1/2". I lost some of the rake that I really liked, but I had to be able to drive the car without scraping the trans pan on every piece of pea gravel in the road.
I made a guess, and used 300# springs on the front shocks. I bolted them on, crossed my fingers, and dropped the weight on the axle. At rest, I have 1.5" of rebound and 2.7" of compression. Just about where it should be.
By dropping the drag link to the bottom of the Pittman arm, I kept that level with the tie rod. I do have a slight down angle on the Panhard rod, but I ran the numbers, and on an extreme bounce, I have less than 0.2" side-to-side movement. I'll lower the Panhard frame bracket if it becomes a problem.
I'd like to get a small bit of the rake back, but unfortunately, there's no more adjustment left to bring the front end down. The adjusters are all the way out. I expect I will get some settlement when I drive it a bit. I thought this might happen, but the next shorter shock was too short.Jack
Gone to Texas
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06-13-2007 05:19 PM #57
For those of you who missed the other thread with photos, here's the car outside just before I made the first drive around the block. This was before I raised the front.
I've got the dash ripped out so I can attach it without putting screws through the windshield channel like Gibbon suggested, so It won't be outside until a week from Friday or so. Then another trip around the block, and finish up the VIN/Title/Registration documentation.Jack
Gone to Texas
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06-14-2007 11:56 AM #58
That car looks awesome! I love the lines of the '34
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06-14-2007 01:12 PM #59
looks killer henry................ hard to believe it's a gibbon. you got any fingerprints left.
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06-14-2007 01:18 PM #60
The car looks terrific. but I have to agree the previous rake was a bit radical for road use. What would probably be desirable would be half the distance you lost, which would still have yielded a nice rake but with a little more clearance than the original.
I went from a steep rake to a little less steep rake by changing wheel and tire sizes. One of these days I would like to convert the from suspension from standard springs to either coil over or shockwaves. In either case I will have to re-visit the front end geometry issue, and that I am not looking forward to.
Since we are not all that far away I will be looking forward to seeing that beauty on the road in the mid-atlantic region one day soon.
I wanted to complain about this NZ slang business, but I see it was resolved before it mattered. LOL..
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