Thread: Enclosed Trailers
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12-13-2006 10:38 PM #16
Ok guys, I got a price back from a Canadian dealer for a enclosed trailer
My Specs were as follows:
- 2006 Pace Pusuit Platform
- Red in colour
- 2 x 5000lb torsion axles with brakes
- 48 inch side entrance
- White aluminum/vinyl walls and ceiling
- Total of 8 D-rings (4 front and 4 rear )
- Aluminum lower and upper cabinets - red in colour (straight not L shaped)
- Roof mounted air/heater unit
- wired for 110 volts with 2 plug ins at front of trailer and 2 at rear or trailer
- 2 ceiling mounted 4 ft floresent lights for 110 volts
- Plywood floor
The dealers price is $16,215.00 + 15% taxes = $17,497.25
Does that seem like a fare price or a high price? Can i save alot of money by buying it in the States?
Thanks for all the input so far guys, greatly apreciated
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12-14-2006 05:43 AM #17
What length of trailer???? Bumper hitch or 5th wheel???? If that is for like a 24 foot trailer, seems way too high too me..... Oh yeah, is that in Canadian dollars? What's the excange rate to US dollars??? 15% sales tax????? Man, how the heck can you afford to live up there?Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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12-14-2006 06:00 AM #18
That would be $15,215 USD... seems a little high to me. Honestly buying an enclosed trailer is like buying a new truck or car.....buy used to advoid the depreciation hit. I bought my 2001 24ft Wells Cargo Auto Wagon used almost 2 years back for $6,500, although I got a killer deal on it since the trailer was worth 10-12K. Search your local classifieds and scour racingjunk also.
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12-14-2006 07:20 AM #19
Holy crap kennyd...how many trailers do you own? You have boughten 3 24ft trailers and still have the pace with hail dammage? ( is it the one for sale on racingjunk web site advertised with hail damage?[/QUOTE]
i still have a 48 ft and a 24 ft ,but i am thinking about another 18ft .
no my 48 is still here , the hail damage is not so bad unless its almost dusk .yes i drove ,the trailer didnot drive it's self
FATGIRLS ARE LIKE MOPEDS , FUN TO RIDE JUST DONT LET YOUR FRIENDS SEE YOU ON THEM
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12-14-2006 07:57 AM #20
I found this trailer from Pro-Line Trailers, there asking price for it just the way it is in the puctures is $4,800.00 plus taxes. Talk about a price differance. Add another $850.00 for the aluminum cabinets installed and im at $5650.00 plus taxes. That sounds pretty dam reasonable to me, but it has vinyl interior walls and ceiling, and as you guys were mentioning, maybe thats not a good thing. The good thing is, i dont have to drive 5000 miles to pick it up, i can pick it up right in Elkhart Indiana which is only 1300 miles away ( ya ya ya...its still far enough..ha ha ha)
Have any of you's seen or had one of these trailers?...are they any good? I have been looking at racingjunks web site for a while now, and all the trailers that have the interior completed are in the 8-10 thousand dollar range anyways.
This trailer is a 24 foot trailer with 3500 lb axles....If i upgrade to 10,000 lb GVW axles and go with the same trailer but 28 foot instead of 24 foot, the total is $7,500.00. ( american money ) Still pretty dam reasonable to me for a brand new trailer. ( about $8625.00 Canadian ) + the taxes at the border...another 15%...so that would total to just under the $10,000.00 mark.
I still say i was born in the wrong dam country....ha ha ha
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12-14-2006 08:05 AM #21
Yup, one of the circle burners here in town runs a pro line. He's had it for about 3 years, still works and looks great. I don't have a problem with the vinyl walls, they'll clean up with some household cleaner and a rag. Decide you want to upgrade some day you could always pull them and replace with the colored aluminum panels or something, too. That entire area around Elkhart is loaded with trailer manufacturers and is a very competitive market for selling them....Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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12-14-2006 09:47 AM #22
I bought a left-over 2002 Pace Pursuit 24' in 2003 for our set-up. I now wish I had bought a 28'. It is a bare bones unit that didn't have any options other than the front stone guard. I got a super deal on it, and was still able to have the "new vehicle" warranty. This thing tows like a dream. One small issue I had was the fact that my car has 3" of ground clearance, and is really fat. For that reason, I had to build a set of ramps to get the car high enough so that the sides would clear the wheel wells in the trailer. It works out perfectly because I can also store things like the canopy's and other things under the car. I mounted my winch off to the side and mounted a "D" ring in the middle to keep the floor clear when the car wasn't in there. I also mounted my 4' florescent lights to the outside of the ceiling against the wall to light up the sides rather than the top of the car. Painted plywood walls are very easy to clean and it also makes it easier to mount things. I'll see if I can find some pictures.Mike Casella
www.1960Belair.com
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12-14-2006 09:53 AM #23
Originally Posted by maxed_out_rpms
You may be able to upgrade to 5000# (each) axles in the 24' model.
Haulmark had one like that when I bought mine, but I didn't know it at the time.
So far, a 7000# gross has worked out ok, but if I'd had the 10,000# gross trailer I could have brought more stuff with me when I moved.
20 ton press, 200# brand new quality bolts and nuts, lockers etc. and a bunch of other neat stuff got left behind.
You may find it advantageous to get the higher gross weight trailer.
Weight has a way of sneaking in over time.
I try to watch it with mine, but the added stuff probably totals 200# so far.
The red looks great.
Nice part is it should be easy to find in the sea of white trailers at the races.
My little bro's trailer is light gray and that helps when I'm looking for him in the pits.
A couple of advantages I can see with the white vinyl walls & celing.
A little light will go a long way.
Plus, the dead air space between roof and ceiling will add a bit of insulation.
The heat comes through the natural aluminum colored roof on mine, but it strikes me that you would do better.C9
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12-14-2006 03:25 PM #24
C9x, Ya they will up grade the axles to 5000# axles for an extra $500.00, which is still very reasonable. But after thinking about it, the closest track is almost 600 miles away, so maybe a 28 foot trailer would be better for me so i would have more room for parts, luggage, bikes, nagging girlfreinds etc. to travel in instead of the back of the truck.(he he he) Now I'm thinking it would be better to have a little extra space then not enough space.
My Cougar weights in at close to the 3000 # mark, then add the weight of the trailer, parts, tools, compressor, generator etc etc, and ya, the 5000# axles would defenetly be the way to go.
At first i was looking at used 40-48 foot trailers so i can have a living quarters in the front, but after rethinking the idea, it would be way cheeper for me to just rent a motel room for a few nights instead of paying all the extra money in gas to tow a trailer of that size and weight. In Canada its a little over $4 a gallon for gas.(1200 miles round trip to track and back) Plus, if anything happened to my tow vehical, its alot harder to think of a freind with a one ton dually then it is just a 1/2 ton to pull the trailer with. Hey, what are freinds for...right?.. ha ha ha
After rethinking about what you guys are saying, maybe the best idea would be to but the cheeper vinyl walls that are already in the trailer, cut the bottom 2 1/2 feet of vinyl off and put painted plywood there instead. (or just screw it right over top of the vinyl) That way i still have the durable walls near the bottom ( because thats where everyone seems to leave there boot/scrape marks ) and nice glossy clean looking upper walls and ceilings.( Ive seen trailer with carpet in that area) As for hanging items up, maybe I will just take a couple 4 foot lengths of flat steel 1" x 3/16", weld hooks on them, paint them to match the trailer, then screw them threw the vinyl walls and into the studding of the trailer, strong, cheep and will probably look good also.
Its amazing how much more you learn and think about by asking people.
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12-14-2006 03:31 PM #25
By the way, Pro60chevy, I really liked the idea of the lights down the side instead of down the middle. Im hoping my car fits between the inner fenders so i dont have to make a ramp system. Even with a winch system, if the doors do not open at all because of lack of room between the inner fenders of the trailer ( theres 81 inches between the inner fenders of that trailer), then i got problems because my cougar has lexan windows that do not roll down, so i cant just reach in and steer the car. BUT, where theres a will theres a way.
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12-14-2006 04:20 PM #26
Maxed out.
You don't need to weld up a piece to bolt on the walls to hang stuff on.
Get some hooks at Home Depot or similar and mount them with sheet metal screws to the - most times - 1" square tubing that goes up the walls.
You can see how many square tubing pieces are in my trailer by looking at the underside of the roof.
Most times you can get stuff right where you want.
Take a look at the first pic I posted where the hanks of rope and the like are hung up.
Install a fire extinguisher where it can be reached just inside the door.
Cheap insurance....C9
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12-14-2006 04:56 PM #27
Here are some pics of the inside of mine and some of the things I had to do.
Winch tucked into the left side behind the cabinet.
Mike Casella
www.1960Belair.com
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12-14-2006 05:31 PM #28
Me thinks you did a great job pro60chevy, even looks like you must have been around C9x's trailer, i see the extinguisher just inside the back door. My backyard shop is 26 x 28 and i have 4 fire extinguishers in it, one never knows when shit happens.
Your car must really be low to have to build those ramps in there. This past summer i used a buddies open trailer to haul my car around on, and i had to place my floor jack under the trailer jack, crank the trailer jack as high as it would go, then use the floor jack to lift up on the trailer jack, lifting the back of the pickup and front of the trailer just to get the angle right, or my exhaust pipes that aim out the side of the car would scrape the back end of the trailer. I was thinking more of putting a winch under the cabinets so its totally out of the way.
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12-14-2006 05:38 PM #29
I originally had the winch under the middle cabinet, but I needed to put an air compressor under there so there wasn't any room left. At least where it is, I can get at it to unlock the freewheel lever. If it were under the front cabinet it would have been too difficult to get at.
I had to build those ramps, without them I only had 1/4" of space between the wheel well and the lower part of the car.
That extinguisher came in very handy one day at the track. The guy beside me started up his car and it burped and caught on fire. Sure is a handy place for it also. I may even put another one up front beside that door also.Mike Casella
www.1960Belair.com
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12-14-2006 10:00 PM #30
I dont blame you at all, if you compare the cost of having to try and replace your car versus the cost of another extinguisher, its like money in the bank.
Im thinking of putting in an idustrial grade tile on the floor. That way im hoping that if i have a small oil leak it will just wipe up and not stain the wood floor.
I wanted to complain about this NZ slang business, but I see it was resolved before it mattered. LOL..
the Official CHR joke page duel