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04-08-2007 11:49 AM #61
Courier Rear on T bucket
Here are 2 pics. One shows stripped Courier prior to cutting just in front of spring. 2nd shows 9" ford differential in place. Camera is out of order, will add more later.
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04-08-2007 11:54 AM #62
additional pic
Here is one of entire car.
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04-08-2007 12:31 PM #63
Interesting---whats with the skull on the rear differential---I've never seen that before.Old guy hot rodder
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04-08-2007 06:22 PM #64
Skull on Differential...
Go to carskulls.com or search ebay motors for "skull t bucket".
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04-11-2007 08:49 AM #65
Nice photoshop.
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04-11-2007 04:18 PM #66
Let me guess....the blurred fron tires gave it away.
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04-13-2007 07:01 PM #67
Originally Posted by Aster
I'll take a picture of that intake we talked about and e-mail it to you.
Jim
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04-24-2007 09:46 AM #68
I haven’t added anything to this post in a long time, but every once in a while as I cruise thru all the hotrod postings, I see an absolutely perfect example of a point I have been trying to make. The man who is building the car in these 2 pictures (a Vicky), has nailed something absolutely perfect!!! There is always a lot of controversey about where to attach the front of split wishbones to the frame after they have been split. Yes, in the old days rodders split them and moved them out to the frame rails---and they worked---sort of. But---attaching them to the framerails is geometrically incorrect, and it throws a bind into the rear suspension. The correct way to do this is to separate the wishbones (or hairpin radius rods) only as much as you need to in order to clear the driveshaft. This means attaching them to a crossmember which fits between the frame rails. This is the absolutely best method for coils, coil-overs, or transverse leaf springs. You will also need to add a Panhard rod (anchored to the drivers side framerail ) or a Watts link, to center the chassis on the rear axle assembly. This method of attaching the front of the radius rods or hairpins close together at the front, allows the rear suspension to function as old Henry intended it to when these cars were designed.Last edited by brianrupnow; 04-24-2007 at 09:49 AM.
Old guy hot rodder
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04-24-2007 10:18 AM #69
Nice job Brian. I like how you are making sure this thing retain the old retro spring fit and appl the geometry of the bars. I would love to see the spring perches. My curiosity alone wishes to see it. I like what you're doing with it.What if the "Hokey Pokey" is what it's really all about?
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04-24-2007 10:43 AM #70
Nitrowarrier---All ya gotta do is ask. Another builder from Texas has been in touch with me, asking me questions about his build, and spring perches. I am going to attemp to add his email, his pictures, and my answer---brian
Here are the pictures I took of the rear of my truck, last week Sorry about the delay.
Anyway, have not done a thing to any of this since Wednesday night.
Let me know what you think?
And here is my response:
Hi Ken---That looks fine---a couple of comments---I can't see clearly, but if it isn't there already, there needs to be a triangular gusset tying your spring hanger plates back to the rear axle tube, or they are going to bend (or tear out a peice of axle tube where they are welded to it). the shackles are hanging fine.That panhard rod is shorter than I like to see---generally, the plate that picks up the end of the panhard rod should come off the 2 bolts to the immediate left of the bolts which you have used, to make the panhard bar longer---(longer is better)---Brian
and here is the picture (model) I sent to himOld guy hot rodder
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04-24-2007 11:01 AM #71
Keep pics coming as you continue on. I like where it's headed.What if the "Hokey Pokey" is what it's really all about?
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04-24-2007 11:16 AM #72
I just received the following email from Kris---
Thanks a lot for taking the time to share your knowledge on that build! amazing. do you have any cads/specs on how to set up a pickup frame? im building a 39 ford pickup. im starting on the frame and have no idea what to measure or where to start. can any of your writeups apply to what im building?
thanks again
-kris
Hi Kris---Yes, everything I have posted is relevant to your build. Start at the beginning and read it thru completely. You are the man who has to make the decisions about how you want to build your truck. do you want to run full fendered, or fenderless---are you going to have the truck setting on top of the frame rails, or are you going to channel it. Are you going to run a full length box, or shorten the existing box, or run without any box at all. Are you going to run the stock 39 front suspension, or go to the aftermarket for a dropped axle. Are you going to run a suicide perch, or utilize the original front crossmember. what engine and tranny are you going to use. what rearend.--What rear suspension. transverse leaf, or coils, or coil overs. What radius rods---or will you split the original wishbones. Or maybe a 4-bar---parallel or triangulated, with a track bar. Are you going to "kick-up" the rear frame with Z, or maybe even put a double Z in your frame to get the front end "down in the weeds. Maybe you will want to "bag it" on all 4 corners and not run any springs. These are all decisions you have to make. If you don't know what some of these terms mean, or if you can't find it in this post somewhere, then use the "search" function and look it up. My post specifies "early hotrod frame", which basically covers the cars from the late 1920's to the middle 1930's, but the knowledge is applicable to almost any hotrod that is being built with a I-beam or tubular style front axle, a frame, and an engine and a body.Old guy hot rodder
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04-24-2007 11:56 AM #73
Very good commentary and example for rear ladder bar installation with the Vicky example. In that case these are good, ol', but still viable, Pete & Jakes parts. http://www.peteandjakes.com/parts/3334/33_ladder.htm That's not to say crafty folk can't learn from this and build their own, but credit is due where credit is due. Since he used P&J ladder bars, and it looks like their lower shock brackets, he likely used their spring hangers too. They have two styles, one with a single mounting; http://www.peteandjakes.com/parts/33...ngmounting.htm , and one with two mounting positions for height adjustment; http://www.peteandjakes.com/parts/32...ngmounting.htm
One thought on the fellow from Texas, though it's a little tough to make out from the pic, it looks like he could get some "bottoming" of the spring on the hanger bracket if there's enough shackle movement given that it's over the spring rather than outboard of the spring end as is typically done.Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon
It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.
Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.
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04-24-2007 12:02 PM #74
Originally Posted by brianrupnowPLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.
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04-24-2007 12:25 PM #75
Why does the Panhard rod need to be anchored to the driver side frame rail? Why not the passenger side?
Because---On a cross steer car, where the drag link goes from the steering box (which is attached to the drivers side framerail) over to the spindle arm on the passenger side of the car, as the front suspension moves up and down thru its travel, the drag-link itself acts like a Panhard bar. You want the Panhard bar on the rear of the car to have the "fixed point" on the same rail as the steering box and the moving end (which does swing thru an arc during suspension travel) to be attached to the suspension on the same side of the car as the drag link is attached to.---If not, steering can be "twitchy" when you run over a bump at speed..Old guy hot rodder
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