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Thread: Spray foam insulation?
          
   
   

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  1. #31
    '32 skidoo is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I'm getting close to "got to!". Not too much said beyond Lizard Skin and Cool Car.

    Anybody have any comments on Insulshield, Dynamat, the foil backed bubblewrap or foil backed jute vs. the liquid?
    I thought I was broke 'til I bought a streetrod

  2. #32
    BigTruckDriver is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chev malibu
    Interior stripped out, and I have painted as many interior metal panels that I can access. I noticed a lot of condensation on the inner roof, now that the headliner is out. I also stripped out the black, what looks like house roofing tar paper. The condensation worries me, but I suspect that it is from the wild temperature swings we have had recently. I wondered about using a spray foam insulation, to cover the inner roof, and perhaps some of the other areas I could apply it, such as the inner 1/4 panels, etc. I figure it would help prevent the condensation, and perhaps make the vehicle sound quieter from road noise, etc.

    Any opinions on this course of action, pros/cons. Any suggestion as to the type of spray foam insulation that might be good for this?

    Other suggestions for insulation materials suitable for the inner roof, etc? It has to be thin enough to allow me to get the headliner back in place, (hardboard style, not hoops).

    Thanks.
    I would only use what is made for the application. Just any regular spray foam could trap moisture and make things worse.
    Friends dont let friends drive fords!

  3. #33
    maxxmuscle's Avatar
    maxxmuscle is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    The owner of the Anglia I'm working on had looked at Lizardskin, coolcar and just mentioned "2nd skin" (or could be "second skin"...) Supposed to be like lizard skin, but more user friendly and cheaper. Anyone heard of it? This is the reply he got from them about their product:

    Hello Bobby
    Thanks for your interest in Second Skin!
    I am decently familiar with your car, so I can give you a pretty good idea of what product to use, and how much of each you will need, in order to accomplish your sound deadening goals.

    Since the majority of unwanted noise in car is structure borne, your base foundation will be a solid vibration damping system.

    Rather than sell one miracle product that claims to do it all, we sell a few products that each have a specific sound deadening purpose.

    Our system looks something like this:

    -Damplifier or Damplifier Pro (depending on your budget)

    -Spectrum, our noise and vibration coating.

    -Options product – Luxury Liner or Overkill Pro

    Using a combination of these products is a surefire way to insure an amazing foundation for your project.
    The Damplifier or Damplifier Pro will go inside the car on all the sheet metal panels, under the carpet, behind the upholstery, in the trunk and on the ceiling. Everywhere that is hidden with upholstery should get a layer of Damplifier or Damplifier Pro. Some area can even stand to get 2 layers. Remember that the larger and flatter the sheet metal is, the more it will resonate and transfer sound annoying noise. Adding a second layer of Vibration mat will not only increase the sound deadening results, but it will increase the results exponentially (the second layer nearly triples the results of the first layer).

    You will need about 120-160 sq feet of Damplifier or Damplifier Pro to do the entire car.
    The next product will be Spectrum, our vibration coating.

    Use 1 gallon inside the car in all the areas you are unable to reach with the Damplifier Pro, then apply 2 or 3 gallons on the underside of the car on the floor pan and wheel wells. This will sandwich the floor between the two different vibration dampers and will completely destroy the unwanted structure borne noise. When this product dries, it becomes hard, yet flexible black coating that will not only reduce noise, but will prevent against rust and corrosion. Because it is black, it is very difficult to see, perfect for guys that are restoring classic vintage cars to like new condition!
    If your budget permits, you can go with the next layer which will address the airborne noise.
    Our favorite product for reducing unwanted road noise, engine noise or exhaust drone is Luxury Liner. This product will get applied directly on top of your final layer of Damplifier or Damplifier Pro inside the car in all the areas that allow you to replace the factory carpet and upholstery comfortably. This final layer of Luxury Liner will be the final nail in the sound deadening coffin that will insure you have a quiet, cool and more luxurious ride in your car.

    Some of our customers want to save on weight. For these guys we suggest going with Overkill or Overkill Pro instead of Luxury Liner.
    These products will do the same basic job, but they weigh less. Luxury Liner will always provide better results though.

    This may be more info that you had needed, but I hope it answers your questions.

    I realize that Second Skin is not the cheapest sound deadening company out there, but consider that it takes only 1 layer of Damplifier Pro to achieve the same results that 2 layers of most other products provide.
    If its not worth doing right, its not worth doing... Donny, MaxxMuscle Custom Painting

  4. #34
    shine's Avatar
    shine is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    bubble wrap is junk period. foil backed roofing materials belong on the roof. read up on heat migration. this is the problem with most of them. dynamat will be as hot on top as bottom after a while. myself i'll stick to lizardskin. i've used just about all and have done lizardskin in about 5 cars. wont even try a new one.

  5. #35
    '32 skidoo is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by shine
    bubble wrap is junk period. foil backed roofing materials belong on the roof. read up on heat migration. this is the problem with most of them. dynamat will be as hot on top as bottom after a while. myself i'll stick to lizardskin. i've used just about all and have done lizardskin in about 5 cars. wont even try a new one.
    Hm-mm-mm. I don't think my compressor will handle it. That and the price of the gun and the $400.00 mat'l cost. I may have to settle with the Cool Car and a paint brush. It seems the liquid would better handle where I'm at right now and the areas that I've got to cover.

    Shine, thanks for your imput.
    I thought I was broke 'til I bought a streetrod

  6. #36
    shine's Avatar
    shine is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    you can brush or roll any of it. it just looks better shot with the gun. liquid seals up everything. all the glue down stuff leaves gaps and places for heat to migrate.

  7. #37
    '32 skidoo is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    "you can brush or roll any of it."

    Well then,.......it's the Lizard Skin or the Cool Car. I'll make my decision and let you all know what and then how it works.

    Thanks to all for their input. It has helped.
    I thought I was broke 'til I bought a streetrod

  8. #38
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    clover47 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Cool Pre-cut insulation kits

     



    “Has anyone tried the AcoustiShield products from QuietRide Solutions?

    They provide pre-cut kits for several makes of cars and trucks for the roof, floors, doors , and firewall.”

    Please let me know,

    Thanks

  9. #39
    shine's Avatar
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    i've dealt with one of the firewall kits. took it out and tossed it. was nothing but in the way and interfered with mounting a/c and other stuff.

  10. #40
    '32 skidoo is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Gone with the Cool Car. Will let you know my impression (for what it's worth).
    I thought I was broke 'til I bought a streetrod

  11. #41
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    My cousin used spray foam inside second gen camaro quarters and it rusted in just a few months. Stick with the better products.
    "Are you stalking me...because that would be super!"

  12. #42
    mx5rush is offline Registered User Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I sprayed foam on the inside of a toyota tailgate... guess which part is rusting out now?

    Sure that's after 5 years of Omaha salty winters, but man... The only other parts of the truck that went bad were the last few inches of tailpipe right behind the wheel in the spray, and the bottom of the radiator that wasn't covered with the paper bag I used every winter trying to get her to warm up.

    I think the foam definitely trapped moisture in there by plugging weep holes in the bottom of the hollow tailgate that were designed to let moisture run out. MY BAD.

    By the way, I just joined and this looks like an awesome forum with lots of stuff I've got to read!

  13. #43
    '32 skidoo is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    A ton and a half's worth of information, if you printed it all out and some pretty savy folks with a lot of information.
    I thought I was broke 'til I bought a streetrod

  14. #44
    '32 skidoo is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Have started brushing on the Cool Car and it does seem to work fairly well and is expensive.

    Talked to a guy, today, and he was telling about a thread that was talking about using 'micro ballons' (mini, hollow, glass balls.....ceramic bubbles) that can be bought from Wicks Aircraft Supply and then mixed with high quality, exterior, latex paint.....supposedly the same same. Then I find a current thread about this here. sigh.

    I'll definitely try this when I need it the next time ( a thread on another site goes into a pretty good discussion (hottrodders.com)...found that tonight, too...always a day late and a dollar short).
    I thought I was broke 'til I bought a streetrod

  15. #45
    Chev malibu's Avatar
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    I'm glad I posted the question here, rather than jumping ahead with the job on my own. I stored the car all winter inside, to prevent the condensation problem, and am ready to start work on it again.

    Sounds like the brushable Coolcar may be the answer for my project after all is said and done. I can apply it thin enough that I can still fit my headliner in without problems, and I can use it on a few other areas as well. I hope I can buy it in Canada. Seems like every time I turn around there is another good product "no longer available" due to environmental concerns. I understand that all solvent based paints may soon be banned. I'm all for saving the environment, but some products for specific jobs can't be duplicated, and would be a real loss.

    Thanks for the info!

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