Thread: Spray foam insulation?

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Interior stripped out, and I have painted as many interior metal panels that I can access. I noticed a lot of condensation on the inner roof, now that the headliner is out. I also stripped out the black, what looks like house roofing tar paper. The condensation worries me, but I suspect that it is from the wild temperature swings we have had recently. I wondered about using a spray foam insulation, to cover the inner roof, and perhaps some of the other areas I could apply it, such as the inner 1/4 panels, etc. I figure it would help prevent the condensation, and perhaps make the vehicle sound quieter from road noise, etc.

Any opinions on this course of action, pros/cons. Any suggestion as to the type of spray foam insulation that might be good for this?

Other suggestions for insulation materials suitable for the inner roof, etc? It has to be thin enough to allow me to get the headliner back in place, (hardboard style, not hoops).

Thanks.

I was helping a friend cut up an old conversion van and the foam insulation caught fire, The whole thing was an inferno in less than ten seconds. Unless it states that it's fire-proof, I'd stay away from it.

great-stuff foam is fireproof, its the only foam product that we allow here in duval county for fire stopping in construction, ive also read that the car stereo competition guys use it, i have it all over the merc, i would not use it in a professional resto or anything like that ,but in a car the condition of mine ,it works good, i dont know about the condensation issue yet ill find out in a couple of years

I would not use it. It will trap moisture between it and the metal and will rust. I have seen it to many times.

Lots of new cars have it in the rockers and pillars for sound deadening... but new car bodies are typically dipped in rust preventative paint before assembly.

You might want to check into a ceramic insulating coating, I had my Shelby sprayed with Lizard Skin coating after having it recommended to me by someone who had their vette done with it and it seems to work good. I have only heard of people using it to spray their floor area but I do not see why it would not work in other areas, you can get more information here. http://www.lizardskin.com/

Originally Posted by 29Street-Rod

You might want to check into a ceramic insulating coating, I had my Shelby sprayed with Lizard Skin coating after having it recommended to me by someone who had their vette done with it and it seems to work good. I have only heard of people using it to spray their floor area but I do not see why it would not work in other areas, you can get more information here. http://www.lizardskin.com/

I used lizardskin in my entire car and it is great for heat and sound

Like somebody else said, It will actually trap condensation. Also, its really expensive if you do it right.

Man this didn't go far!
I can't see it being any different then bedliners..do you?

Foam absorbs water, this is very bad when steel is involved.

We have been using that plastic aluminum bubble wrap blanket used to insulate household hot water tanks. It is about 3/8" thick and does a great job.It doesn't hold water and glues with 3M rubber cement.
We put it everywhere under headliner -door panels and rugs.

Tow'd, I was actually looking at some of that stuff at a Home Depot yesterday. It looks like it might just do the job.

I also checked out the foam sprays, and they didn't really have any that would spray in a fan spray pattern. Most are designed for draft leaks in houses, and are sprayed through a narrow tube. The can must be held upside down as well, so that would be almost impossible to do a inner roof. I didn't know about the fire hazard of it! The lizard skin would probably be a good way of sealing the metal against rust, but I can't see how it would insulate. Is it fairly thick?

Thanks all for the advice.

you'd have to apply the great stuff with a long tube, that way the upside down problem won't be too bad. As you apply, have another person spread it out thin with a wide blade putty knife. The stuff has an expansion rate of like 10:1 so I do mean spread it THIN. After it cures out, trimming would be involved, maybe a DA with some 60 grit would work fairly well, or a wire wheel on an angle grinder. Wouldn't be pretty, but it would be covered anyway. Coat the metal with some POR first, and moisture won't be an issue. You could also put a moisture barrier between the foam and the cloth liner ( plastic sheet ). i'd expect it to do an wonderful job on sound insulation.

I'm not saying any of this from experience, just giving you some .02 on a possible application of a specific product.

With that disclaimer done, I can tell you from experience, that Great Stuff is some dam sticky shit, so wear gloves and if possible a Tyvex suit. Since you will be applying overhead, a face shield would be a real good idea. Oh, and make sure you have a FAN set up with all the doors open, and if you got a respirator with charcoal filters, use it.

I & mine family have been in the industrial foam insulation buss. for over 30 years, I would not use the foam in the can stuff you get a hardwares, 1. it is only .05 pound density(only like a r-1 insultation factor) 2. there is NO way to spray it out even 3. it WILL rust your vechicle out!!! 4. yes, they are putting it in some new cars, but they only got to last until the warranty goes out!!!! use something else

until you've driven a car with lizardskin it is hard to believe (s/c h/c). the 56 big window i just finished is quieter than any of our new ones. with no interior the floor got only mildly warm during test runs. after finishing it is super quiet and rally stays cool inside. it is well worth the investment. i use it on the early vettes to help prevent stars and make them quiet. as said earlier..... foam is for houses