Thread: Anyone use the computer to make brackets?

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I was surfing and came across a tip one guy was giving.He uses Microsoft Visio to make his drawing of his bracket .Then he will print it to the exact size and glue it to the metal.Then cut and drill holes by following the lines.He claims This method is a lot faster than drawing it out by hand ,and the piece comes out symetrical the first time.HMMM,I thought it was a pretty good tip.Any of yous do something like this?

Yep---I do that all the time. I design machinery and automation for a living, and generally I build all my bracketry as 3D solid models, then create either 1:1 scale drawings of the small stuff, or dimensioned dawings of the large stuff, then make them in my shop. Of course, I have a bit of an advantage---been doing this for 41 years now---and my software costs more than some hotrods.

Here is one I did today for a guy over on the HAMB who wanted to use front radius rods off a model A as rear axle locators for a model A hotrod. (no, we don't say "rat-rod" on this forum). I make no promises about the accuracy of the wishbone boss inside or outside dimensions, nor the wishbone thickness, as the guy didn't have them available.

I usually won't make a move without at least modeling something in 3D. It is easy enough to do and I am working with "real" dimensions so the numbers are already in my head.
This is a 4-Link Rear Suspension I am designing for a customer.



The thing is, when the design is done I can file out .dxf files for all of the brackets and have them lazer or waterjet cut. That in itself saves a TON of time and I know the brackets are all the same. I have spent many days cutting brackets and it gets very tedious. If I put this suspension into production lazer cutting is the only way to do it cost effectively.

I have done the same thing with my Astro Van Chassis.


Look at the control arms. I can use this data to create welding fixtures when it comes time to assembly the arms. There are so many things you can do with the data ONCE you have it in 3D it doesn't make sense, too me anyway, to not do it this way.
It is always a good thing to know that, when you start cutting, the pieces will go together as designed. Unless I really screw it up there is no doubt it will work and look as it does on the screen.
Mark

Astroracer---Very nice stuff!!! What software is that?--I am using Solidworks---Brian

Thanks Brian,
I am using an old version of Unigraphics. I don't even remember where it came from. I have been using UG since '93 at work so it is pretty easy for me to do just about anything with it.
I am currently modeling up the tail light housings for my '73 Firebird with hopes of having them CNC cut from billet... I don't have any pics of the computer model but here is a link to my Fotki site.
http://public.fotki.com/astroracer/p...t-tail-lights/

It shows how I set them up for measuring... I'll have pics of the model in a day or so.

NICE!!! Astro

Thanks BTD
I ended up using around 40 points to develope the shape. I picked around 65 or so but I used a lot of them as double check points just to verify my geometry.
There were also 9 points in space to locate the mounting bosses but those are inconsequential for shape developement.
Here are a few pics of the 3D model. It is around 95% right now. I am still going through fitment checks for mating parts but any changes now will be very minor.

Here is a view of a couple of mounting bosses. These are on the top and are covered by that little close-out shelf so I had to develope them a bit differently then the others so they are easy to machine.

You can follow the link in my previous thread to see more.
Mark

Geez, am I the only one here who still uses a drafting table to design components? Talk about feeling like I'm a generation behind on design!!!!

I use the computer to design parts, then send them to the CNC for cutting. I have a boat load of files for the "Z". This is the shock mount. I cut the parts out of plywood, install them in the car for fit. If I see something that's not quite right I make the change and cut another plywood part. Once I have it dialed in I put the (in this case aluminum) in the CNC and cut the part.

Some awesome looking work, Pro!!!! No rear end is bulletproof, but that one has got to be really close....

Thanks Denny - Dave. Yea' the rear should be stout. The center section is a Danny Miller "Bad Boy". Aluminum case, 10 bolt pinion support, APR stud kit, 1350 yoke, 40 spline MW axles w/ lightened spool, 4:11 pro gear.

I'll be sure to stock up on "depends".