Thread: LT1 questions

Tweet

I have been streetrodding for many years. I have recently (now) came across a question that I am wondering about. I have a 95 LT1 from a SS Impala. I bought the engiine to be a builder but when I got it home I found it was locked up. I tore it down to find it had 4 spun rod bearings and 2 spun mains. I contacted the guy and he basically said "Tough Luck"
I can have the block line bored and the cylinders bored out and have decided to go ahead and make a 383 Stroker out of it since I have to do all of this. I have built strokers before but not an LT1. I see the prices for the LT1 Stroker are considerably higher than for the other one piece main blocks.
My question is....... What is to keep from installing the non-one LT1 one piece main set-ups in the LT1 block. I know the LT1 rods are different, but will the non LT1 rods work? I don't see why not. They both use the same bearings and one piece rear seal. The rods from the LT1 are different than I have seen before in any small block Chevy.
I don't know what the going price is for line boring nowadays. I have not had to line bore one for quite a while now. Any information would be appreciated.

Thanks, Ed

The LT-1 oil-routing is different... so a different crank is needed. The LT-1 counterbalances and rod weights are different. LT-1 crank must have LT-1 rods... the reason for the price difference is supply and demand.

I figured they were different, I was just wondering if a complete crank and rod assembly from a regular 1 piece main set-up would work in the LT1 block.
Thanks, Ed

Originally Posted by madgrinder

The LT-1 oil-routing is different... so a different crank is needed. The LT-1 counterbalances and rod weights are different. LT-1 crank must have LT-1 rods... the reason for the price difference is supply and demand.

Here is some info i found on the Cranks.

"CRANKS

350 - The crank for the LT1 looks just like the one in the late 350 and has the same casting number 14088526, but it’s balanced for the lightweight pistons that were installed in the LT1. Be sure to keep these cranks separate so they don’t end up in a regular 350, and don’t ever use a regular 350 crank in a LT1. In fact, if you are short of LT1 cranks and don’t have a balancing machine in your shop, you would be better off using a crank from a 305 instead of a 350 because it’s actually closer to the balance specs for the LT1 crank."