Running Board Covers and Trim

[Irelands child]

I just received my running board covers and SS trim for my '31A roadster. The boards and covers are identical for both the '30 and the '31 so I decided to use the SS version of the trim from a 1930 instead so I could eliminate the welting. The trim does not fit over the cover and somewhere I had read that the outer edges of the pyramid embossing had to be routered off for it to fit correctly but can't find that information again. Can anyone confirm this? Has anyone done this successfully? How? With a router jig? I have big and even bigger routers so not a problem with a tool.

Another question, these are self-stick covers but Macs and LeBarron-Bonney suggest using cement as well. Has anyone had experience with applying contact cement over the self stick tape they use or is there a better version of a contact type cement I can use - the usual stuff is real good for counter tops. Where to buy it as well?

As always, thanks

[stylingZ]

Dave I hope this goes well for you because I will be following in your footsteps once my rear steel fenders get extended to cover my Hoosier pro street radials and my running boards will be made to match. I want to recover them exactly like you are doing with the SS version of the trim for a 1930. I just removed my exposed hinges and installed Hagan hidden hinges...really turned out sweet, doors close so much more smoothly, and the body line is my sleeker now. Happy New Year

[Irelands child]

Dave I hope this goes well for you because I will be following in your footsteps once my rear steel fenders get extended to cover my Hoosier pro street radials and my running boards will be made to match. I want to recover them exactly like you are doing with the SS version of the trim for a 1930. I just removed my exposed hinges and installed Hagan hidden hinges...really turned out sweet, doors close so much more smoothly, and the body line is my sleeker now. Happy New Year

Styling,
If you widen the RB's and still want to cover them instead of painting, LeBaron-Bonney sell the covering by the yard and you can get either style, '28-'29 or '30-'31 that way. It just costs a bit more. Mac's '30 trim longitudinally is longer than the boards and needs trimming to length, width wise are about to size. Quality is pretty mediocre - but Mac's supplies most of the Model A vendors(including LeBaron -Bonney) with many items so it's a crapshot. I did find one gotcha - I need to grind the outer edge flange of the RB's to fit the trim which also means I need to weld replace the inner reinforcing. So much for having them painted and ready for coverings. Hope to have done today if I can get some sheared sheet metal - weather permitting (ice storm today in the great NE)

Which hidden hinges did you end up with - I couldn't find any that would work when I was in that mode so will use my modified originals as I'm way too far along to change that direction.

Keep me posted on progress - sounds like it is charging ahead.

[Gusaroo]

My Dad ended up having his running boards on his 31 chevy rod done with rhyno liner. They look terrific. They masked the area so the rhyno liner is only where the covers used to be. The painter also was able to either paint over it or color the rhyno liner the same as the whole car (a dark metal flake silver). Looks really clean and neat. Extemely durable too.

He always had trouble with the original covering, either peeling or shrinking. Here is a pic.

[Irelands child]

[QUOTE=Gusaroo]My Dad ended up having his running boards on his 31 chevy rod done with rhyno liner. They look terrific. They masked the area so the rhyno liner is only where the covers used to be. The painter also was able to either paint over it or color the rhyno liner the same as the whole car (a dark metal flake silver). Extemely durable too.

He always had trouble with the original covering, either peeling or shrinking.
QUOTE]

I guess that's a "Why didn't I think of that" suggestion since I'm going to undercoat the undersides anyhow - and bed liner material on both sides would be a good way to go - and the first covers were only 'stuck' on in June and started peeling in the basement without ever being installed on the car - thanks.

Your dad's car is real nice - a nice change from a '30-'31 Ford - has he been to the September NSRA shows in Burlington, VT? It looks familiar.

[Gusaroo]

He'd be happy to hear that... Hes been working on this thing for 10+ years and finally got it on the road last summer. He stays local in CT with it. I am surprised how scarce the early 30 chevy's are. I am always looking for one at the shows or in the mags, never see them. Too much wood to rot away in them I guess.

[Irelands child]

[QUOTE=Gusaroo]He'd be happy to hear that... Hes been working on this thing for 10+ years and finally got it on the road last summer. He stays local in CT with it. I am surprised how scarce the early 30 chevy's are. I am always looking for one at the shows or in the mags, never see them. Too much wood to rot away in them I guess.
QUOTE]

It looks even better side view - my wife tried to convince me to buy an already finished '30 (I believe) a few years ago instead of building the roadster you see in my AVATAR. You should convince your dad that he might consider a trip to Burlington Sept. 21 -23 this year as there have always been several Chevys there. (I've been working on my roadster 6 years and hope to "debut" at either Syracuse or Burlington this year)

Most Chevy builders that I've talked to have reinforced with steel where possible instead of wood. There isn't the aftermarket for Chey wood like there is for Fords.

[Cape Cod Bob]

sorry to dig up thius old thread bbut had to add to it so any future viewers would find this site for chevy wood
http://www.chevywood.com/
they have the best kits for chevs i am told