Thread: 110 MIG welder advice

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I'm planning to purchase a 110-115 VAC MIG welder soon and thought I'd ask what everyone is using.

Northern Tool has a Clark that's inexpensive but is it reliable?
Then they have a Hobart which is the next grade up.

I could get a Lincoln or Miller from another retailer.

Please let me know what you are using, and how well it works.
More importantly - which machines would you not recommend?

Thanks - Bert

What are you planning on welding with it? 110 volt units are very limited, generally to thin metal, like body panel thickness. I know some guys will swear you can weld frames with them, but penetration can't be as good as a 220 volt unit.

Mig welders is one of those areas where you really need to spend a few bucks extra, or you will outgrow it very quickly and have to move up to another one.

As for what units........brand preference becomes subjective. We have a Miller 210 mig, and a Miller 200 sycrowave tig. The tig is new and hasn't really gotten much use yet, but will when Dan starts on the bodywork. The mig has welded miles of welds flawlessly. I just used it for two days straight last week building my aircompressor base and rack, and even with my limited welding skills the welds are strong and presentable.

Save your money on the cheap units and buy something you will never have to replace in your lifetime or your kids lifetime. JMO

Don


PS: Put the gas bottle with it........fluxcore spatters too much.

Yep what Don said
I would stay away from the 110/115 volt units they just don't have what it takes. Even for sheet metal there duty cycle is realy limited. You do want to get it with the bottle as well that way by changing gas you can weld different metals (aluminum or steel)

I'd save up a bit more money and get a bigger unit. As the other guys said, they are very limited in their usage. A welder is an investment and I would imagine you plan on using it for more then 1 project. I'd definitely recomend a bigger unit. As soon as you use the 110 about a half dozen times, you'll allready be wishing you would have gotten a 220 volt unit and a bottle of CO-25. The flux coated wire just doesn't cut it for welding, either... As with any tool, it's always best to pay for the quality unit the first time.....

OK - thanks for the reality check - that's why I hang out here -

I definately planned on using gas.

I'm going to spec out the Miller 210 that Don suggested and get something similar. I believe Miller and Hobart are the same company now.

Thanks - Bert

Good plan, Bert!!!

It's always hard to suggest how another person should spend their hard earned dollars, but good equipment is an investment that will last you for years and years.

Check out these people: www.cyberweld.com/


We have bought the mig, tig, and plasma from them, and they are first rate, and lots cheaper than your local dealer. Other members have used them I think.


Good luck.


Don

I use a gas generator when I want a good weld

Thats a super idea.

I was fretting over running a 220 line from the back of my house to the garage in front, then a heavy extension to get within reach of the work.

That's why I had submitted to the 110 idea. And stiil wasn't happy with that.

Fire up the 5500 watt 220 generator and go to work.

I like it -

Don
You bought a plasma cutter??? Didn't know you had one. That was the first thing I bought after my Mig way back when. I've even used it to scarf off old welds cause run out of OX or Acc. Another Great tool.

Yeah, the funny thing is, we wanted one for years, finally bought a ThermoDynamics, and after a couple of times never used it again. It has sat that way for about two years. Just recently I started using it, one time to cut out my driveshaft hoops on the T, and last week to do some notching on the base I had to build for my air compressor stand. Thing works great, and I see that I will be using it a lot more in the future, instead of my trusty cutting torch.

Only thing is, these rascals throw some sparks. I've got three burns on the top of my right foot where molten steel went down my sock, and I couldn't get my shoe off fast enough. Guess you are supposed to wear more than tennis shoes and just shorts when welding and cutting.

I have no idea why we haven't used it more, it makes short work of even the 1/4 inch plate I was cutting. I agree with you Charlie about how good they are, and the cut is much neater than the torch.

Don

Little or no slag and whats there comes right off no warped panels long cuts I clamp a pc of l iron down and it cuts streight and almost as fast as you move it. I think you may want to invest in some LONG pants and HEAVIER shoes I think the worst is hearing the hot sparks roling around in your ear

I use a Miller251 mig welder with a tweco 300 amp gun.

I know where this welder can be purchased for like $1800 if I remember right.. Place is in Ohio and the guy sells them on ebay.

Its a good deal..

Learn to weld with .035 wire on heavy steel.. 17.5 to 18 volts @ 220 IPM or so.. once you can weld at that, start practicing thinner and lower power welding.

Stick with Miller or Lincoln for welders. Hobart is ok.. Miller is the best and most widely stocked.. Easy to find parts.

I have a little Lincoln 110v wire welder and am well satisfied with the way it works. The flux-cored wire welds good outside, when my neighbor's big Miller sputters out from the breeze blowing the gas away. Works on 10 ga. and less, any thicker go for the buzz box.

I have the Lincoln Weldpak 100 - 115v . 10 years old never had a problem . It can weld up to 1/4 inch with multi pass . Cost about $400 for the new Weldpak 140 now great for the garage .

If your building on car every day for a living then i would suggest the 220v Mig or if you just have the $ to have it .

Ive pushed mine way over duty cycle alot and it has never quit. Great tool for the money. Most my experience welding you run a bead stop clean it check you work then start again. Duty cycle fits right in.

For butt welding i did have to learn with it im running the .030 flux core . I think the .023 wire with the bottle would have givin me quicker results. I havent converted yet this is my second car and sheet metal work is limited here.

I too have a Lincoln 120V unit - and it works great for anything up to ~3/16. For body work it is fine. I do wish that I had gotten one with an infinitely variable arc output(the next size up) though as occasionally one setting is too low and the next is too high. Had $$$ been no object, the 220V would have been the way to go. BUT, you do not have the same level of portability. I help out friends occasionally that do not have a ready source of 220V in their garages. The best of all worlds; a 120V for little stuff and a honkin' big 220V for everything else. But, the source of all evils, $$$ is a factor.

Whatever you get, for a few bucks more, stay with the major brands for parts and service: Lincoln, Hobart, Miller just to name some of the most popular. HF, nah - they'll change their Chinese supplier and if you need parts in 2-3 years, lotsa luck - it's then scrap iron !!