Thread: is this going to work?

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ok, now I'v got a fuel pump, Electric Holley 12927 ( Walboro GLS393 ) and I have no assessory circuits in the fuse box, so my thinking is, run a wire from the ignition switch from the 'hot in run' terminal to a dual fuel pump relay kit, power for the switching low current side of the relay's should be able to be run in series, off this power source, and then I could run the fuel pump with 1 relay, and provide 12v switched to the MSD 6 BTM box. could I do that saftly?

I'm a fuseaholic, think I'd add an inline between the switch and the pump!!! Other then that, sounds kewl to me....

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

I'm a fuseaholic, think I'd add an inline between the switch and the pump!!! Other then that, sounds kewl to me....

the dual fuel pump relay I'm looking to get has a 30A breaker included for each high current circut, should I also get a 10A fuse and holder? because the pump is only supposto draw 5A.

Originally Posted by Matt167

the dual fuel pump relay I'm looking to get has a 30A breaker included for each high current circut, should I also get a 10A fuse and holder? because the pump is only supposto draw 5A.

Yup, that's what I would do.... An extra fuse is cheap compared to the cost of not having one where it should have been if things go wrong!!!!!

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Yup, that's what I would do.... An extra fuse is cheap compared to the cost of not having one where it should have been if things go wrong!!!!!

in our area it's somthing like 80% of vehicle fires are electrical related, and mostly kids with there huge boom box 'Systems' wiring things str8 to the battery with no fuses, but I don't want my car to be a part of that percentage... I'll wire it safe.

I also think an electric fuel pump is good to think about using for anti-theft purposes. Like a toggle hidden up under the dash.

Kitz

You should be able to switch on about 100 relays with one remote wire ,.....I am not 1000 percent shure but I think its in the mili amps to throw the pole on a relay? I have 2 relays on one switching wire ....I guess I could stick the fluke meter on there and see what 2 relays draw on the remote switching wire.
And like dave said fuses every where,what I did was to put one of those huge bladed fuses right at the main power up at the horn relay and the fuse is about 2 inches away from the battery for safety,If all the fuses under the dash do not blow the big bladed fuse powers all of the truck up,with it out there is power no where.Soo far I have been able to get by with a 50 amp fuse in there for all the power on the vehichle.

yep, I'm going to put a toggle in under the dash for theft purposes. also I got thinking, if I hooked an adjustable oil preassure switch into 1 of the many free ports on the regulator ( 4 port, so 2 will be unused, 1 of those will have a fuel preassure gauge on it ) and ran the power from the relay thru that, and then ran a bypass wire from the starter solonoid to the fuel pump so that 12v would go to the pump on cranking, that way the pump would stay shut off, until the engine started cranking, but then would remain on until power was shut off, is this somthing of a good idea?

Sounds like you are talking about something like an oil pressure safety switch, Holley P/N 12-810?

Not a bad idea at all. I have total manual control of my pump via the toggle switch. I like to be able to run the pump without the engine turning over. It's good for filling the bowls if needed or for when I run her dry of gasoline.

I've got OCD when it comes to scanning gauges so I figure I can shut her down quick enough if I lose the oil pressure.

Kitz

yeah. I got OCD when it comes to a few things too. buying parts 10x better than what I need, even for little things. I paid 30 bucks for an Earls fuel filter that flows 250 GPH with 3/8" fuel line, and I'm going to use it as a pre filter for the fuel pump. but same goes for parts like the $545 roller rockers, or $100 Dual roller timing chain.