Thread: Lowering a Chevy Truck

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I have an '85 GMC. I want to lower the truck. Not "lowrider" style but just a little lower than it is. For the front I was planning on buying drop spindles. Unless there is a cheaper way??? For the rear I am not sure what to do. I was going to put the lowering leaf spring mount on the rear but one of the box cross members is in the way. I could cut and box the cross but I was told another way to lower it. I was told to take the axel out. Flip it over and put it on top of the springs. The guy that told me this claims there is nothing else you have to do such as brakes. Is this true? Can you really just take it out, flip it over, put it back in, and be done?

Jason
www.TherkelsenRacing.com

Sounds like someone who's never done one trying to explain it to you.

Flip is the usual terminology used in the hobby and by the parts vendors, but it's somewhat of a misnomer. Sounds like you have the leaf spring suspension. The axle is bolted to the bottom of the spring. The "flip" involves mounting it to the top of the spring, but not "turning it over". If you look at the axle you'll see a pad or saddle welded to the housing that mounts it to the spring, held in place by U-bolts. When you put the axle on top of the springs, the housing will need a new saddle on the bottom of the axle tube. These are sold in what are called "flip kits". One important thing the aftermarket piece does is maintain correct pinion angle.

Now the possible negatives. One, flipping the axle typically gives a 4-6" drop. You'll probably have to C notch the frame, the pieces to do that also come in the better "flip kits". Dropped spindles usually only give you a 2" drop, so if your truck sits level now, it will take on a taildragger stance with an axle flip. If it rakes forward now, then you might end up level.

Yes flipping is a little on the extreme side around 6" drop will be had from this. Yes you will also need to do c-notches.

You say you are looking for a couple inches lower nothing extreme. A 2" in front and 4" in the rear will bring you down level. Typically these trucks are 2" higher in the rear stock from the factory. So a 2" in the front and 2" in the rear will give you a little lower stock look. You can get this by simply replacing front springs and hangers in the back. That would be the cheapest route but still done correctly. I personally would do dropped spindles in the front and you should be able to get a new set for 200-300 dollars. Dropped spindles for these trucks usually come with a 2.5" drop. Bell Tech is one of the leaders in these kits but remember that there are plenty others that make these kits. Check their site for kits. Also remember to check and readjust your pinion angle after you get done , going up or down changes the angle.

Yup, the Bell Tech spindles would be the way to go on the front...

Sure do like your website, midget racing is way kewl!!! Wisconsin is probably the best place to have one, lots of good tracks to run on!!!

Thanks for all the info. I would be ok doing 2" in the front and 4" in the rear. I would like it to sit level. Can I get spring brackets for the rear to lower it 4 inches? Also is it normal to have to notch out the box for clearance? I have no problem modifying it. I just want to do it correct.

Dave thanks for the feedback on my website.


Jason
www.TherkelsenRacing.com

I lowered my son's 84 Chevy with spindles and hanger/shackles. I think the spindles we used were 2.5 inches and the hanger and shackles were 4 inches.

We did not need to C-notch the frame in the rear and stock length shocks worked OK.

There were a few modifications required.

The first was on the front brake lines. The steel portion where the line attaches to the caliper had to be bent for clearance with the spindle. This is pretty heavy tubing and took a little work to bend and not kink. Go slow and work the bend a little at a time.

Also, the front spring hangers are riveted to the frame. These are tough to get out. You really need to drop the gas tank to get to the rivets.

The longer rear shackles will usually interfere with one of the bed cross-members and it will need to be notched for clearance. If you were just going to do shackles, you could probably do it without pulling the bed. If you're going for the front hangers I would pull the bed.

Keep in mind that messing with the rear springs could change the pinion angle on the rear end and you would need to check that also. The angle on my son's truck didn't change.

Here's a picture of my son's truck.

Mike

That is awesome! That is what I want my pile of junk to look like. Where can I get a grill like that? Most don't cover the headlights. Thanks for the added info. I wasn't sure about notching the box. Now i can start my parts search.

Jason
www.TherkelsenRacing.com

Jason

That grille was made by T-Rex. It's called a Phantom Grille. Sorry, I can't remember where I ordered it. Do a web search on T-Rex and Phantom and you should get some hit's.

The hood came from Keystone. They make aftermarket body parts for body shops. Check with your local shop and see if they can get you one delivered on their supply truck. The shipping on hoods is pretty high.

Mike

It is a very common practice to notch the bed support to accomodate new hangers. I would stick with DJM for the spindles, and at all costs stay away from Chassis Tech (AIM, airbaggit.com, ect.). Try sportruck.com for the grill.

Cheap, quick, easy. Lowering blocks in the rear. I don't know if you can get more than 3 inches, but a good machine shop can make some 4 inches. Do not use 2 2", or a 3 and a 1". Do not use more than 1 block per side. Noone here ever mentions lowering blocks, and I have used them on several applications, for long periods of time, no problems, no issues.

Jack

If you have the rear end above the leafs then lowering blocks will work. If the rear end is below the leafs (which I think most chevy trucks are)blocks will raise the truck up.

Originally Posted by BigTruckDriver

If you have the rear end above the leafs then lowering blocks will work. If the rear end is below the leafs (which I think most chevy trucks are)blocks will raise the truck up.

Yes, you are correct. As a person who never owned a Chevy, I did not realize springs were on top of axle.

Jack