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Thread: braided brake lines ?? why race use only?
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    godspeed32's Avatar
    godspeed32 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 32 ford hiboy
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    ken where do you source your parts and far as advice im all ears
    nothin like hearing those lake pipes roar!!!!

  2. #17
    bentwings's Avatar
    bentwings is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 41 Willys pro street
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    I think it was robot that said it, I can't go back a page, that there is a whip test done for DOT rating and that is right. Dot lines are really not a lot more cost wise. If you were in a crash a savy lawer might question the non DOT brake lines so I would use them just for the protection. No point in giving them any more than you have to.

    As far as flex lines for the whole system, it will make a slighly spongy feel but it will really drain your wallet unnecessarily. Just use hard lines. Well done stainless is nice looking but as noted it's hard to get nice straight runs. Just use the steel stuff. It will long out last the street rod or race car andis easy to work with.
    41 Willys 350 sbc 6-71 blower t350, 9in, 4 link
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    Cummins turbo diesel . front license plate, black smoke on demand, Muffler KIA by friendly fire (O&A Torch co) fuel pump relocated, large fuel lines. silencer ring installed in glove box, Smarty

    older than dirt

  3. #18
    Ken Thurm's Avatar
    Ken Thurm is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by godspeed32
    ken where do you source your parts and far as advice im all ears
    You wouldn't want to pay the freight from here, but if you ever do the place is called Torino Motor Racing in the city of Orange. If you can find a aircraft surplus outlet near you, that is where I get all my weird tubing and odd ball fittings. It's all good quality from the aircraft industry. The one I use is called Aircraft Spruce in Corona, California. I think they have an on line catalog. Thats where I got the tubing for my taillight mount if you look at my last post on my truck. If you can dream it up they usually have it.
    As for as putting ends on steal braided line, I use electrical tape and go in about a inch from the end and stretch the tape real tight around the braided line, then use a real high speed die grinder with a 1/16" blade and make a straight cut. The tape will keep the braided line from unraveling. Slip the nut over the end, look inside the nut and put the thread about 1/8 from the end of the hose put some anti seize on the threads on the hose end. Then put another wrap of tape around the braided line where the hose end is. This will tell you if you are pushing the hose out of the end when you screw the fitting on. Sometimes instead of the fitting going together inside the hose it will try and push it out. I hope this makes sense to you I am not a very good writer.
    As for as the hard line goes I always use stainless tubing, it is seamless so it eliminates the possibility of a seam splitting under pressure. Buy the beast flaring tool you can, mine is at work but Monday I will get the name for you. Also the tubing bender is important, get Good de burring tool. I will give you the names of the manufactures of everything I use and photos. I can't tell you how important these pieces of equipment are, I have about (I'm guessing) 40 hours in my plumbing in my truck. Of course this is just my opinion.

  4. #19
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
    Henry Rifle is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford Low Boy w/ZZ430 Clone
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    I use a small hose clamp over the braid to keep it from unraveling. (thanks to a suggestion on this board) Loosen the clamp as you push the hose in.

    There's also a very nice tool that's worth the investment if you assemble hose very often.

    http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/koultool.htm
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

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