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05-02-2007 07:39 PM #16
ken where do you source your parts and far as advice im all earsnothin like hearing those lake pipes roar!!!!
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05-05-2007 10:42 PM #17
I think it was robot that said it, I can't go back a page, that there is a whip test done for DOT rating and that is right. Dot lines are really not a lot more cost wise. If you were in a crash a savy lawer might question the non DOT brake lines so I would use them just for the protection. No point in giving them any more than you have to.
As far as flex lines for the whole system, it will make a slighly spongy feel but it will really drain your wallet unnecessarily. Just use hard lines. Well done stainless is nice looking but as noted it's hard to get nice straight runs. Just use the steel stuff. It will long out last the street rod or race car andis easy to work with.41 Willys 350 sbc 6-71 blower t350, 9in, 4 link
99 Dodge ram 3500 dually 5 sp 4.10
Cummins turbo diesel . front license plate, black smoke on demand, Muffler KIA by friendly fire (O&A Torch co) fuel pump relocated, large fuel lines. silencer ring installed in glove box, Smarty
older than dirt
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05-06-2007 09:17 AM #18
Originally Posted by godspeed32
As for as putting ends on steal braided line, I use electrical tape and go in about a inch from the end and stretch the tape real tight around the braided line, then use a real high speed die grinder with a 1/16" blade and make a straight cut. The tape will keep the braided line from unraveling. Slip the nut over the end, look inside the nut and put the thread about 1/8 from the end of the hose put some anti seize on the threads on the hose end. Then put another wrap of tape around the braided line where the hose end is. This will tell you if you are pushing the hose out of the end when you screw the fitting on. Sometimes instead of the fitting going together inside the hose it will try and push it out. I hope this makes sense to you I am not a very good writer.
As for as the hard line goes I always use stainless tubing, it is seamless so it eliminates the possibility of a seam splitting under pressure. Buy the beast flaring tool you can, mine is at work but Monday I will get the name for you. Also the tubing bender is important, get Good de burring tool. I will give you the names of the manufactures of everything I use and photos. I can't tell you how important these pieces of equipment are, I have about (I'm guessing) 40 hours in my plumbing in my truck. Of course this is just my opinion.
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05-06-2007 09:30 AM #19
I use a small hose clamp over the braid to keep it from unraveling. (thanks to a suggestion on this board) Loosen the clamp as you push the hose in.
There's also a very nice tool that's worth the investment if you assemble hose very often.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/koultool.htmJack
Gone to Texas
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