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Thread: 51' f1- door lock removal?
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Dago Red is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 51' F1 w/429, 70' Nova w/427
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    51' f1- door lock removal?

     



    Hey guys, there is a shop local that can create a key for me for the truck, but at 6mi. to the gallon I'd rather just take them the lock during my lunch hour or something rather than drive the truck over.

    Anybody ever remove the lock? How do I do it? Thanks.

    Red

  2. #2
    Matt167's Avatar
    Matt167 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '51 Chevy Fleetline and a Ratrod project
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    might be easier to just remove the door. locks can be hard to get to.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  3. #3
    Dago Red is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    the guy at the lock shop said that there should be a hole into which I can insert an allen wrench and loosen it up and remove the lock. I think I see one under the rubber, am going to give that a try I think.

    Red

  4. #4
    poncho62's Avatar
    poncho62 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 51 Ford Pickup
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    Yeah...its the one under the rubber.............

  5. #5
    Dago Red is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Damnit!!! Here's a good one for you. It's frozen right, so I spray it good with some penetrating breaker. Then try different allen wrenches (3/32" seems right), they're stripping. I get out one of my allen wrench socket thingies, yeah, it breaks off in there. Brittle enough to break, too hard to drill out. After wasting time on that for a while and playing around, nothing else occurs to me.

    So I carefully drill and then cut the sheetmetal, instead of one hole to get to it there is now a nice little 1/4" slot, I can correct later or leave, no hurt. Only thing that has occurred to me at this piont is to weld something to it to give me something to grab and turn. tried a bolt, tried a screwdriver, another bolt. F*(# the weld always gave out before the thing would turn!!!

    I don't know what else to do at this point. sprayed a butt load of penetrator and am leaving it for now. any ideas I'm open? (normally it would have been easy to just drill and use a remover, but with that hardened piece in there I'm screwed at that angle).

    Red

  6. #6
    John Brian's Avatar
    John Brian is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1951 Chevy 3600 3/4 Ton 350/330 700R4
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    Not being a patient fellow, this situation would not work well for me. I would probably give up and set fire to the thing.
    1951 Chevy 3600 Long Box

  7. #7
    Dago Red is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I thought about taking an air chisel to it but it not being MINE I figured I'd get half a dozen reverse thread cobalt bits and drill till it either breaks loose or I get deep enough to get something in there and loosen it.

    Red

  8. #8
    Ed Rodder's Avatar
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    I did not know what was in there and had an extra door that I took apart to see the mechanism then spent a couple of weeks spraying and tapping and then it finally moved and turned out. I am not usually that patient either but there was no real rush. Then gave it to the lock smith for a key. Even have the flapper on the outside. Ed ke6bnl
    1949 Ford F1 stocker, V8 flatty
    1950 Ford F1 pu street rod
    1948 Ford F3 pu projec
    1948 Ford 2.5 ton dually project
    1953 Chevy 3100 AD project to my 85 S10pu
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  9. #9
    Dago Red is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Ed can you tell me what exactly I am working on as I can't really see in there. I figure it is some sort of lock/set screw but with a large body and the allen slot at the end (which is not jammed with a broken bit). I have been spraying it but wonder if I can somehow remove whole unit so I can just grab it with a wrench and loosen. Also, is it possible do you think to replace that lock/set screw since mine is going to be melted fudge by the time I get done?

    Thanks,

    Red

  10. #10
    Ed Rodder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dago Red
    Ed can you tell me what exactly I am working on as I can't really see in there. I figure it is some sort of lock/set screw but with a large body and the allen slot at the end (which is not jammed with a broken bit). I have been spraying it but wonder if I can somehow remove whole unit so I can just grab it with a wrench and loosen. Also, is it possible do you think to replace that lock/set screw since mine is going to be melted fudge by the time I get done?

    Thanks,

    Red
    I see no way to remove it as a unit. but what I did was to put the allen in the set screw and spray and then tapped it. It finally came loose.
    there was a trick the locksmith told me when putting it in and it has been so long I can not remember. It seems I had to follow the part in from the back some how, wish I could remember. If it comes to me I will post it. or maybe someone can help us out. I just freed some large house screw jacks that where frozen solid since I got them and maybe some 20 years plus. I use Edd's Red solution 1/3 trans fluid 1/3 acetone 1/3 kerosene and when it freed these parts It became my cheap replacement for PB blaster my old favorate, might give it a try.
    1949 Ford F1 stocker, V8 flatty
    1950 Ford F1 pu street rod
    1948 Ford F3 pu projec
    1948 Ford 2.5 ton dually project
    1953 Chevy 3100 AD project to my 85 S10pu
    1968 2.2 Ecotec Baja Bug kingCoil etc.
    1998.5 Dodge diesel 4x4 many extras

  11. #11
    Dago Red is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I might try that, I don't have the kerosene but could pick some up. I use the PB blaster. I appreciate the help.

    Red

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