Thread: Aluminum shroud heating issue
-
08-29-2007 03:13 PM #1
Aluminum shroud heating issue
Ok I have fabricated a shroud for my radiator with a spal puller fan.I am very limited with space so originally I had the fan mounted on the radiator.The shroud is barely 3/4" of an inch with the fan now mounted to that.When I went down to Reno for Hot August nights(about 35 miles)the temp went up to about 205 when I was driving on the freeway.When I get into slow moving traffic it drops to 195 or less.I am thinking that when I am doing a faster speed the air flow now gets backed up against the shroud with no where to go.What do you guys think,the only other thing I can think of is it is leaning out a little.Any ideas
-
Advertising
- Google Adsense
- REGISTERED USERS DO NOT SEE THIS AD
-
08-29-2007 03:21 PM #2
Could be lean, or could be a cooling issue. What stat are you running in it?? Finding a balance between a good shroud, but one that doesn't restrict airflow at highway speeds is tough!!! Did you try kicking the fan on manually on the highway to see if it would cool????Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
-
08-29-2007 03:33 PM #3
Its a 185 stat and the fan is on at 195.I have seen on some shrouds where they have flaps that looks like they will open when at higher speed.Seems to be happening at speeds above 60 or so.
-
08-29-2007 03:40 PM #4
Originally Posted by Blow byYesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
-
08-29-2007 04:19 PM #5
If you are saying that the distance from the back side of the radiator to the shroud surface is 3/4", then your thoughts about that being too small are correct. Going down the road, the air is probably piling up and the only air flow is essentially the diameter of the fan hole. The flaps you refer to are usually a rubber flap that are simply pop riveted to the fan shroud and covering holes cut in the shroud. You might call some pro like Griffin Radiator and ask how much space they recommend between the radiator core and the shroud.
Another thought is perhaps your fan is helping to limit the flow at highway speeds. Can you switch your fan off on the road to test?
mike in tucson
-
08-29-2007 04:42 PM #6
The problem here is that at speed, the fan cannot freewheel as fast as it needs to to allow full air flow. The electric motor acts as a sort of brake. Even if you turn the fan off, I don't think it can freewheel fast enough.
The shroud on my electric fan has two rubber flaps near the bottom. If the fan is pulling, they are sucked shut. If the air "stacks up" at speed, they open and relieve the pressure. They have to be one-way, though.
It's kind of hard to see, so I outlined it. There is one on each side.Last edited by Henry Rifle; 08-29-2007 at 04:45 PM.
Jack
Gone to Texas
-
08-29-2007 05:02 PM #7
I am going to try the fan off idea as it is an easy one to check.This coming winter I will put some flaps in it as I also think that it is a situation where the air is backing up and has no where to go.The whole idea of this shroud was to see if it did make any great differance as it had always intrigued me eventhough I new it would be a tight fit.Last edited by Blow by; 08-29-2007 at 10:10 PM.
-
08-29-2007 05:24 PM #8
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
My fan/shroud has two flaps like Jack's, but I think on some of the larger shrouds I have seen 4 flaps, two at the top and two on the bottom.
I like the Cooling Components fan/shroud combo because it cools better at low speeds and in traffic. I do think I ran a little cooler on the highway when I just had my 16" Spal with no shroud.
I just pre-ordered one of their (Cooling Components) new fans from Walker at the Nats in Louisville. It has a larger (17") fan and a larger shroud, so I hope that allows a bit more air through on the highway. The larger fan is also not as deep, so it will help those who have clearance problems. It draws a bit more current and requires a larger relay, but that thing sure seemed to move a lot of air when I was comparing it at the show.John
-
08-29-2007 10:03 PM #9
A little cooler might give you more comfort but 205 is not bad. My 34normally runs 200 - 205. Heavy traffic will take it to 210/215. Hiway driving in the boonies might get me 190. Different story in my 57 though, rarely gets over 195, usually sits about 180, except in real heavy slow traffic, then it climbs to 210. 57 has stock radiator and stock engine turned fan, 34 has 10 inch pusher and 16 inch puller. You don't want to run too low or your combustion will be inefficient, especially with today's lousy gas.Bob
A good friend will come and bail you out of jail....but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying..."Damn....that was fun!
-
08-29-2007 11:14 PM #10
Another thing you can try is a spoiler under the front bumper or under the radiator. This causes a low pressure area so the hot exhaust from the radiator has a place to go.
I had an 89 T-Bird Super Coupe and hit a tire tread on the highway one time, it ripped off the spoiler however I stopped and picked it up (luckily). But untill I re-installed it, the car would run much hotter.
I ripped the spoiler off my Dodge diesel truck last winter on a snow drift on the highway and the same thing happened. So these spoilers are good for something besides looks.41 Willys 350 sbc 6-71 blower t350, 9in, 4 link
99 Dodge ram 3500 dually 5 sp 4.10
Cummins turbo diesel . front license plate, black smoke on demand, Muffler KIA by friendly fire (O&A Torch co) fuel pump relocated, large fuel lines. silencer ring installed in glove box, Smarty
older than dirt
-
08-30-2007 07:29 AM #11
I like the louvre idea as from what I have seen so far that shroud is not actually doing that much.Had an idea it wouldn't when I made it but wanted to try anyway.Like Mopar34 said the temps aren't to excesssive so at the moment I am not to concerned.Good little winter project once the snow flies.
-
08-30-2007 09:52 AM #12
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
It is a case of highway air usage inefficiency though and that would drive me nuts too. The relief valves (flaps) will probably get you there.
KitzJon Kitzmiller, MSME, PhD EE, 32 Ford Hiboy Roadster, Cornhusker frame, Heidts IFS/IRS, 3.50 Posi, Lone Star body, Lone Star/Kitz internal frame, ZZ502/550, TH400
-
08-31-2007 11:18 AM #13
Picture of flaps....
Here's a link to Ron Davis Radiators - I happened to recall seeing this dual fan radiator with flaps....
http://www.rondavisradiators.com/staggerd-dual-f&s.jpg
I've seen a bunch with louvers too.... I'd do one or the other.
JB
-
08-31-2007 11:42 AM #14
The reason that they use flaps instead of louvers is that the air takes the path of least resistance. If the louver path is easier than the air going thru the radiator, then the louvers will flow until the louver path equalizes with the radiator path. Therefore, the louvers can help at some times and hurt a tad at other times. The flaps only help since they are a diode in the system. Louvers are just like an air gap between the shroud and radiator....a leak.
Louvers look cooler than flaps...the cool look may help cool the car....???
mike in tucson
-
08-31-2007 12:36 PM #15
I had never seen the flaps until I ordered a new aluminum radiator for my '39 Dodge. However, I can see the concept.
Don
Ok gang. It's been awhile. With everything that was going on taking care of my mom's affairs and making a few needed mods to the Healey, it was June before anything really got rolling on this...
My Little Red Muscle Truck