Thread: Radiator questions
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09-23-2007 01:02 PM #1
Radiator questions
What are the pros and/or cons of an aluminum radiator like one made by US Radiator as opposed to a traditional radiator (something like a Walker)...it'll be going in a '32 hi-boy with a 350/350 combo; no AC.
Was at the Street Rod Nationals in Kalamazoo last weekend talking to the different manufactueres and of course each manufacturer says theirs is better, so what do the real world actual users say?
Bearing in mind this'll be driven in Michigan, which would you choose and why or why not?
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09-23-2007 01:25 PM #2
I have not bought one yet ,but have been looking ,....quality would be my biggest concern.Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)
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09-23-2007 01:55 PM #3
Make sure it's a welded radiator and not an epoxied one! Also, I've used a lot of aluminum radiators and have had the best cooling with the two core units with the cores at least 1/2" thick.. I put a Norther radiator in the Merc, Steve idled around all afternoon Thursday with the temp in the mid 80's. Temp stayed at 180-186 with a 185 stat!!! Also, as with any radiator, it takes a good shroud to make them cool correctly...Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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09-23-2007 03:11 PM #4
There are a lot of opinions on aluminum vs cooper/brass radiators. Some think that an aluminum radiator will cool better, but they are hard to have repaired, or almost impossible if it's put together with epoxy.
I will say one thing for Walker, their customer service and warranty is hard to beat. I have a Walker that was over ten years old when it started to leak. I was quoted $128 to send it in and have it gone through. When I called to check on it and find out how to pay them I was told not to worry about it, so my radiator was recored for the cost of me shipping it down to them, and turn around time (from the day I shipped it) was about 10 days.John
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09-23-2007 08:45 PM #5
I really don't know that much about radiators, but have just been under the impression (since I've seen so many) that aluminum must be better, maybe more expensive, but better performing. Yet I look at the price of a Walker, and they're very close in price to the cost of an aluminum one, so now I'm confused, I figured traditional might be cheaper, pay a few hundred more for the aluminum and get better performance, but if they're close to the same price, why buy one over the other?
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09-23-2007 11:44 PM #6
Aluminum disipates heat faster, but you must have a good shroud on any radiator. I bought a AFCO through Summit for the 39, they had one on closeout with the water necks I needed, $450. I can't run a traditional fan/clutch set up, so got a 16" electric Flex cool, draws 3300cfm, it has curved blades, built on shroud and is 4.5" deep, so it sits back off the radiator core, giving it better air draw. That was $300, after adding a recovery can for another $50, I'm at $800 and built my own brackets. It's a toss up on what you can do in your situation, don't skimp. My Vette has never been over 215, even in traffic on 95 degree days. A lot of hot rodders with punched motors can't do cruises very well, they get hot. It cost a little more for piece of mind....39 Plymouth 2-door sedan, 46 Dodge pu, 67 Mustang stock, 01 Road King
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09-24-2007 06:57 AM #7
Go here and check out the PRC aluminum radiators: http://streetrodstuff.com/Products/99/. People have nothing but good things to say about them, and epoxy is not used in their construction. Their customer service is very good.
Lynn
'32 3W
There's no 12 step program for stupid!
http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson
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09-24-2007 10:18 AM #8
Ditto on Lynn's observation above. I know several people who have used PRC radiators and are very pleased with the product. You can provide dimensions and locations for inlets and outlets, etc., so that it is a custom fit. They have their own website in addition to selling through numerous vendors. And they are located in Indiana, not far from you. http://www.prchotrod.com/Bob
A good friend will come and bail you out of jail....but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying..."Damn....that was fun!
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09-24-2007 10:22 AM #9
Good thread - I suppose the $179 replacement unit from Jegs is epoxied???
I'll have to look closer at the description.There is no limit to what a man can do . . . if he doesn't mind who gets the credit. (Ronald Reagan)
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09-24-2007 10:58 AM #10
OK, I'm learning as we go...I watch ebay regularly to see if I can sneak something out cheap once and awhile, and have been watching this particular seller...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...163551954&rd=1
they sell one, and immediately list another, I'm assuming that it is in fact the manufacturer (Superior Radiator), lately they've been closing for right around $300...then add $50 for the Trans. Cooler... I've always figured I'd be spending somewhere around $600 - $700 for a radiator, but if this is a good one from a reputable manufacturer, seems like a deal to save $200 - $300 (pays for the fan and shroud).
Is this in fact a good radiator for my app.? Like I said, it's a 327/350 Turbo combination that'll be putting out around 300 HP. Seems like I saw that they also offer a fan and shroud combo as well.
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09-24-2007 11:27 AM #11
Griffin make street rod radiators. And ther are the best.
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09-24-2007 12:34 PM #12
As mentioned, PRC builds a good radiator. We have two of them so far. There are only two problems I have seen with any aluminum radiator: The color may look different in a car with no grille in front of it (like my T) and the aluminum gets pushed out of shape easily. Not the main body or tubes, but the thin honeycombing that is between the tubes. You just breathe on it and it gets messed up.
I've been running an aluminum one in my 5.0/Jeep for four or five years and it has been flawless as well. I also have a Brassworks in my '27 and it held up well for years.
That being said, we also have a Walker '32 radiator for my Son's T, and there is no denying that it is a very well built piece. I guess the key is to buy either aluminum or copper from a well known builder.
Don
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