Thread: Project Special K

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With your wife you'll get into "...are you still holding the pedal down?", wondering why you're not seeing voltage, and the reply will be something like, "Oh, no, did you want me to hold it down?? My leg got tired so I let it go five minutes ago....." Use a stick.

LOL yep that would be the gratitude level too!

If it's a dual element bulb just turn the turn signal on, no need for second person or anything else.

Turn signal works off a third bulb, that I believe is the reverse light. All signal and running lights work, just not the brake lights(#1 and #3 bulbs respectively, and that is with the new bulbs in as well. I have been reading up on the Toyota forums that this is sometimes caused by bent pin connections where the bulb socket screws into the integrated housing. I just need to pull them again when the car gets home and I'm home to see if this is the cause, mind you it would be helpfull to have a pedal pusherer!

Well had a little time on the truck over the last few days, got the floor panels screwed in temporarily, and got stuck thinking about the windshield wiper system. I spent probably 8 hours searching online sites for 12 volt motor setups, and figured maybe the cheapest might just be the best with the Speedway setup which uses the stock transmission, and motor mounts. But the I spent 2 hours tearing the garage apart and can't find the transmission I took out! So now here we are three days later with no parts because I'm sure I have the wiper transmission, but haven't a clew what it's buried under! But here is the really good news! I had lost the cordless phone for the garage almost six months ago, and spent numerous hours trying to locate it, but today while searching for the wiper parts, I found the phone. I swear to God there seems to be a lesson in there that I just can't learn, so I decided to let the wiper thing go for a while and work on the 12 volt lighting situation, to where everything uses 1157 bulbs, so I get both brake lights and turn signals, and I am looking into xenon and halogen bulbs for the head lights. Anyway seems to be a good way to waste alot of time on a cold wet day off! Some days we just don't get much done but a lot of thinking!

On my uncles 48 F-1 I installed the 12 wiper motor conversion... expensive for sure but worth every cent in my mind... his has only the driver side wiper, does yours have both? If you want the old vacuum one, let me know! I did the 12 volt lighting quite a few years back, don't remember what I did exactly but I think I swapped out the sockets... I just did the socket change for my friend Marks 28 Ford Tudor.

Anyway.. if you need to get your hands on the old wiper setup, just holler....

Thanks 34_40! I am running an entire new wiring system, just trying to keep the old light housing, brake lights, and running lights. As for the offer for the old setup, let me tear apart the garage tomorrow, and if I can't find it I will let you know. My set up is two wipers. The worst is I found the old wiper motor maybe last month!

As I said. We went electric as the vacuum setup just sucks... and his is the one side, drivers only... but if it can help you, it's yours...

I finally got a chance to get back to my wife's highlander today. I took Roger's advice to use a board to push the brake pedal down. Was able to tweak the bulb sockets to get both side brake lights to work. Next I repklaced both head lamps with new Napa super white bulbs that produce 30% more light than stock from Napa Auto parts as well. So saved a few bucks there! Got more parts for the truck. and got bed back on. Now saving pennies for exhaust system for x pipe cross over and Flomaster Delta 50's.

Originally Posted by stovens

Turn signal works off a third bulb, that I believe is the reverse light. All signal and running lights work, just not the brake lights(#1 and #3 bulbs respectively, and that is with the new bulbs in as well. I have been reading up on the Toyota forums that this is sometimes caused by bent pin connections where the bulb socket screws into the integrated housing. I just need to pull them again when the car gets home and I'm home to see if this is the cause, mind you it would be helpfull to have a pedal pusherer!

Been saving my pennies for an exhaust system, and working a lot to generate income. I talked with a custom exhaust company locally and it looks like I'll be able to get a cross over custom system with Flowmasters Delta 50's series mufflers. He wants the bed on to rig the exhaust connection points so I'm thinking of doing something similar to Steve's Gasser willy's build truck. A solid sheet of 1 inch thick cabinet grade plywood, not sure what type of wood, but thinking white oak quarter sawn, if I can find it, glassing the bottom and placing stainless strips on top to make it look like a real plank wood bed. Will save lots of money mucking with old 48 ford truck bed issues, and come out with a nice compromise and a substrate for the hangers for the exhaust. I'll meet with the guy in the next week or so and go from there, but it's a big step towards getting this beast on the road, and keeping the neighbors happy.
Because of the roll pan built into the tail gate of the truck, I think I'll have him have the exhaust tips, come out in front of the rear tires under the fenders, we'll see how that may look , versus exiting under the roll pan to the rear!

Very nice! It sounds like you have a good game plan laid out!

So I had some time to scout the area for hardwood faced plywood. Found a 3/4" sheet of oak plywood that should work just fine. I then bolted the bed t the frame and measured up the plywood for length and for the in bed gas cap. Everything went smoothly and here is the preliminary result. Still have to get steel strips and trim pieces for edges, but I think it'll look nice when done. The wood is just floating with the exception of the fuel cap right now, so don't worry about uneven edges, etc.

That'll work nice Steve, with your skill in the wood work department.. and the trim installed.. it'll be nice I'm sure.

Steve,
Nothing wrong with the approach, but I expect when your exhaust guy told you he wanted the bed installed he meant the steel. I would be very leery if he starts talking about anchoring your exhaust with wood screws into that plywood.

The steel strips will have carriage bolts, perhaps the exhaust tech was planning to use them for anchors.