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Thread: Project Special K
          
   
   

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  1. #1036
    stovens's Avatar
    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Ford F1
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    Yeah this one lasted over a year before blowing! In all the years I've done oil changes never had this happen, but you can bet it won't happen again until dementia sets in! LOL
    johnboy, 34_40, rspears and 1 others like this.
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  2. #1037
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
    40FordDeluxe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
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    It wouldn't had made it 2 blocks if you started to drive it though. You got lucky it showed it's self for you now and saved you a tow and aggravation.
    stovens likes this.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  3. #1038
    stovens's Avatar
    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Ford F1
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    Time for an overdue Update. After working a lot of overtime I was able to replace all the dented and rusted fenders, and replace the fiberglass with steel running boards and front and rear fenders, as well as steel inner front fenders. I then reached out to my mechanic friend who recommended I talk with his painter friend about how to proceed with painting. I am using Summit Racing. It is a Single stage Acrylic Urethane "Royal Blue Pearl" that with have the appropriate layering of base epoxy primer also summit, and then high build prime followed by top coat. This paint system does not use clear coat which is fine for me. Randy's paint shop friend agreed I should prime all the new steel parts separate from the Body, then do any dents with Bondo, followed by high build primer . At that point, I will bolt everything on, and if I can afford it have his shop do the top coat finish paint. This will take some time as its getting to cold and potentially too wet to do any painting until spring. That's the plan at least!! Might get friend across street to do some minor repairs to the hood, and the bed of truck will need some plug welding and filling the best that I can, because buying a new bed is not in the budget!. I've purposely stopped working on the truck over the last few years as I realized the former owners put a lot of bondy all around the truck, directly over the rusted fenders, to where there was no point in painting until that was delt with, so now it's time to move forward once again. It helps also taking things slower to think out where I want to go with this project.
    any way here is a picture of the now filled garage space of all the new steel parts.



    Last edited by stovens; 10-29-2023 at 01:59 PM.
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  4. #1039
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe, '32 HiBoy Roadster
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    Baby steps are forward progress! Congrats on the new parts!
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  5. #1040
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
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    Looks like Xmas in there! What'cha gonna do with the parts you take off?

  6. #1041
    stovens's Avatar
    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I sold off most of the rusty and heavily dented stuff on craigslist. Looking for a home for the fiberglass running boards
    34_40 likes this.
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

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