Thread: Project Special K

Tweet

It seems that way! The back is taking forever. Every time I think I can move on, I find more dents, scratched paint and rust!

Same looking at back panel on A its as big as a full hood and showing just as much . Looks like you hitting it though so keep it up got me waiting to see it rolling . Been watching this since the beginning

that tank looks good...where is it from?

The tank is from Classic Performance Products in Southern California. They are pretty helpfull, especially with new folks to hot rodding, like myself. The guys on their help line know me by name now. The front disc brake conversion kit also came from them and the brake booster, engine and transmission cross member/mounts. Mario on the help line stands out the most. I find emailing him pictures of where I'm stuck, works best.
Every once in a while they sell parts on Ebay to clear out surplus stock. The tank was miss listed there. They meant to write side fill, not bed fill, but made a mistake. It worked out in my favor to the tune of a 150.00 dollar discount, but I did have to wait almost a month, as they had no bedfill tanks in stock, so this one had to be manufactured. It's very heavy duty. My one complaint(a small one) is that they provide little or no directions, or the directions are general application for something that can be used in many different applications, so they can be confusing to follow.
I also took Kens advice to use a solid fuel line the length of the frame, and braded stainless in the engine bay. At the tank end I'll use regular fuel line and clamps as all of that will be hidden under the truck bed.

Well I spent 5 hours on the truck, but nothing jumps out as any progress! I removed the front and rear windows, and sanded down the window channels, got a new set of replacement glass for the front and back, side vents and door windows( 6 pieces all together, tinted grey except the front) for 157.00 on Ebay, not too shabby. I also worked on more dent / bondo work for the back of the cab, it actually is almost ready for a top coat and then primer, and lastly I removed the rusted lower valence piece that conects the fenders on the bottom of the front grill. I scored a surface rusted one from ebay for a few dollars, that I keep tripping over in the garage, so I figured I might as well get it off the floor! So tomorrow, I am determined to get up early and crank it out, as Fall is truely now here. 101 Saturday, 71 today! My goal was to finish the body work this summer, and then get to the engine and tranny during the Fall/winter. So if I get a move on it, I just might make it.

Originally Posted by stovens

The tank is from Classic Performance Products in Southern California. They are pretty helpfull, especially with new folks to hot rodding, like myself. The guys on their help line know me by name now. The front disc brake conversion kit also came from them and the brake booster, engine and transmission cross member/mounts. Mario on the help line stands out the most. I find emailing him pictures of where I'm stuck, works best.
Every once in a while they sell parts on Ebay to clear out surplus stock. The tank was miss listed there. They meant to write side fill, not bed fill, but made a mistake. It worked out in my favor to the tune of a 150.00 dollar discount, but I did have to wait almost a month, as they had no bedfill tanks in stock, so this one had to be manufactured. It's very heavy duty. My one complaint(a small one) is that they provide little or no directions, or the directions are general application for something that can be used in many different applications, so they can be confusing to follow.
I also took Kens advice to use a solid fuel line the length of the frame, and braded stainless in the engine bay. At the tank end I'll use regular fuel line and clamps as all of that will be hidden under the truck bed.

do you happen to know if they build custom tanks? i don't even really need a custom tank...i just need a stock style '35 tank with a rear filler instead of the left side stock location, but I'm not having a lot of luck. Thanks

Not sure but here is their web site if you want to call them the number is there. http://www.classicperform.com/

I used a top coat glase on the patches today, sanded for a couple of hours, and decided to primer the body to help fing those spots that you can't see without paint! Here are a few shots



It was amazing at what jumped out with just a coat of primer.

Looks great Steve, and I think Muttley is pleased with it too.... Don't remember what all you did on the heads, but I guess my experience with the BBF's in streetable trim has led me to prefer the Performer RPM over the Performer.--- But then my definition of "streetable" seems to be a bit different then most. Compared with stock, you should be well pleased with the whole setup I would say.

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Looks great Steve, and I think Muttley is pleased with it too.... Don't remember what all you did on the heads, but I guess my experience with the BBF's in streetable trim has led me to prefer the Performer RPM over the Performer.--- But then my definition of "streetable" seems to be a bit different then most. Compared with stock, you should be well pleased with the whole setup I would say.

I concur with reference to the RPM Dave. It shows more torque and hp throughout the range. It's just a better design. I wouldn't have believed it until I saw it on the dyno.

"Muttley" is just gettin' the scent of those parts/tools so he can track them down later when some light-fingered dude makes off with them

You gotta love them BBF engines, except when you start lifting the parts around. I think one of the heads weighs more than a SBC engine complete. Yours looks great, Steve, and you are going to love the torque these babies make.

You mentioned having trouble getting the engine onto the stand by yourself. I learned a little trick years ago that makes it really easy.

1) Pull the pin out of the rotating head part of the stand and remove the head that you bolt to the bellhousing area.

2) Bolt just that head to the backside of the engine, adjust it properly, and tighten up the bolts.

3) Then lift your engine high enough on the engine lift so you can lift up the backside of your engine stand and slide the round portion over the round part of the rotatable head. When you do this the back two wheels of the stand will be suspended in the air. The engine stand will be hanging by the engine lift at an odd angle at this point.

4) Put the pin in to hold the rotating head in the correct position and slowly start to lower the engine lift down. The entire stand will start to ride down on the front one or two wheels (depending on model you have) until the back wheels touch the ground and start to level out. After a little dropping the engine will be resting entirely supported by the engine stand and you can remove the chain that was holding it up.

I wish I had pictures of what I mean, but if you lift the engine high enough you can easily slip the stand onto the head. I have hung quite a few engines all by myself using this method, it beats trying to align the four long bolts into the back of the engine with the head still in place.

Just thought I would pass this along.

Don

Dave -I thought about going with the rpm but wasn't sure how much power I'd want with such an old truck and stock suspension. We'll see, I'm already ocillating towards a 4 bar set up in back.
Tech -Tiva normally hangs with my wife, and Pretzel is my constant companion, he's the dog in my avatar.
Richard - thanks.
Don - what a great idea. If I ever find myself trying to mount the engine to the stand again, I will definately try your system out. Wish I would have thought of that on my own!

[QUOTE=techinspector1]I concur with reference to the RPM Dave. It shows more torque and hp throughout the range. It's just a better design. I wouldn't have believed it until I saw it on the dyno.
"QUOTE]

Couple years back we rented Andy's chassis dyno for the day.... Took both cars with BBF's and 6 different intakes, 7 carbs, 4 distributors, 5 guys, and two boxes of donuts..... Learned lots!!!!!! We're thinking about doing it again next spring, only this time it will be Windsor's...... Wanna come up and have some way big fun, Richard???????

Heck yeah, I'm in. As long as it's thawed out by then

Originally Posted by techinspector1

Heck yeah, I'm in. As long as it's thawed out by then

Yup, it'll be in the warm weather.... I don't go much further then house to the garage in the cold crap.... The old bod just won't take anymore then that!!!!!! Heck, I won't be able to move decent till the temp is back in the 80's!!!!!!!