Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 
Like Tree379Likes

Thread: Project Special K
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 15 of 1041

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison
    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
    Posts
    21,160

    I used the copper ones on the last set of Sanderson's I installed, no leaks, no problems.
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  2. #2
    stovens's Avatar
    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Petaluma
    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Ford F1
    Posts
    9,793

    Got a chance to work on the truck this weekend. I decided to tackle the ever evassive steering wheel. I had bought a tap and die set from HF and drilled two hole in the base plate and then threaded them for #8 bolts atached to the steering wheel puller. Since the last attempt at doing, the shaft splines were sprayed with liquid wrench penetrating oil. When I tried to attach the puller the nut on the top of the shaft was too wide to allow the bolts properly align as it is very narrow base plate with only so much room for drilled screw holes. So, and I know some of you are already shaking your heads, I attached the puller without the nut on top of the shaft. The bolts stayed attached which was great, but instead of breaking that old onery wheel loose they just mushroomed the hell out of the threaded end of the shaft. Fortunately a new shaft was for sale, so now it is the reverse bugger of removing the steering column to get it off and the replacing everything!
    The real bugger part is I don't have a service manual for this old truck, so figuring out how to proceed from here is going to take awhile. I did find a small book speedway sells on 48 ford steering boxes and hope that will help(just ordered it today)
    So net gain this weekend was a S#@% load more work, but probably worth it in the long run.
    Last edited by stovens; 02-02-2009 at 09:31 AM.
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  3. #3
    stovens's Avatar
    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Petaluma
    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Ford F1
    Posts
    9,793

    Well with the help of some F1 friends and their advice I got the steering wheel off. The shaft end at the threads is bent enough that the nut won't go on.
    I heated the base of the wheel as they suggested and placed a bolt down the center hole where the puller made contact, and it worked the wheel came off easily. Do you guys think this shaft is salvageable? Should I cut the end threads in the bent section off and use it, or try to re-tap it which I don't think will work?





    Last edited by stovens; 02-14-2009 at 10:56 AM.
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  4. #4
    stovens's Avatar
    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Petaluma
    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Ford F1
    Posts
    9,793

    Here is a better photo
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  5. #5
    stovens's Avatar
    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Petaluma
    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Ford F1
    Posts
    9,793

    Thanks Evolvo
    I found a die that hinges open so you can place it on good threads and then close it and back it off cutting clean threads to the end. Its called a Chase 'em Back Tool and you can see how they work here.
    http://www.chaseembacktools.com/
    For 18 bucks for the die I need it's worth a try. I'll post back when I get it so you'll know wether it works or not.
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  6. #6
    bluestang67's Avatar
    bluestang67 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    New Lenox
    Car Year, Make, Model: 67 Mstg cpe , 37 Ford Coupe
    Posts
    2,787

    Steve exactly what you need to fix it . Something that would come up from the bottom . I use chasers at work look kinda like a C clamp pain to use sometimes . The hinged die idea is great for the repair . Also as mentioned if you had to trim top off a thin jam nut would work fine in holding the steering wheel on .

  7. #7
    stovens's Avatar
    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Petaluma
    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Ford F1
    Posts
    9,793

    Chase em back tool rocks....one stupid mistake averted
    before and after now the nut threads on again.

    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink