Thread: Project Special K
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01-14-2009 11:57 AM #1
I used the copper ones on the last set of Sanderson's I installed, no leaks, no problems.Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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02-02-2009 09:19 AM #2
Got a chance to work on the truck this weekend. I decided to tackle the ever evassive steering wheel. I had bought a tap and die set from HF and drilled two hole in the base plate and then threaded them for #8 bolts atached to the steering wheel puller. Since the last attempt at doing, the shaft splines were sprayed with liquid wrench penetrating oil. When I tried to attach the puller the nut on the top of the shaft was too wide to allow the bolts properly align as it is very narrow base plate with only so much room for drilled screw holes. So, and I know some of you are already shaking your heads, I attached the puller without the nut on top of the shaft. The bolts stayed attached which was great, but instead of breaking that old onery wheel loose they just mushroomed the hell out of the threaded end of the shaft. Fortunately a new shaft was for sale, so now it is the reverse bugger of removing the steering column to get it off and the replacing everything!
The real bugger part is I don't have a service manual for this old truck, so figuring out how to proceed from here is going to take awhile. I did find a small book speedway sells on 48 ford steering boxes and hope that will help(just ordered it today)
So net gain this weekend was a S#@% load more work, but probably worth it in the long run.Last edited by stovens; 02-02-2009 at 09:31 AM.
" "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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02-02-2009 02:26 PM #3
Well with the help of some F1 friends and their advice I got the steering wheel off. The shaft end at the threads is bent enough that the nut won't go on.
I heated the base of the wheel as they suggested and placed a bolt down the center hole where the puller made contact, and it worked the wheel came off easily. Do you guys think this shaft is salvageable? Should I cut the end threads in the bent section off and use it, or try to re-tap it which I don't think will work?
Last edited by stovens; 02-14-2009 at 10:56 AM.
" "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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02-02-2009 02:37 PM #4
Here is a better photo
" "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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02-02-2009 06:54 PM #5
Thanks Evolvo
I found a die that hinges open so you can place it on good threads and then close it and back it off cutting clean threads to the end. Its called a Chase 'em Back Tool and you can see how they work here.
http://www.chaseembacktools.com/
For 18 bucks for the die I need it's worth a try. I'll post back when I get it so you'll know wether it works or not." "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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02-03-2009 06:11 AM #6
Steve exactly what you need to fix it . Something that would come up from the bottom . I use chasers at work look kinda like a C clamp pain to use sometimes . The hinged die idea is great for the repair . Also as mentioned if you had to trim top off a thin jam nut would work fine in holding the steering wheel on .
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02-04-2009 12:40 PM #7
Chase em back tool rocks....one stupid mistake averted
before and after now the nut threads on again.
" "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
Hated to see that news, he was a good online friend.
We Lost a Good One