Thread: Quarter Panel replacement question..

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Alright on my 64 impala Im needing to replace the full qtr on the driver side.. What is the best way to go about this? I have no experience with doing this . The welding part isnt a issue.. Im just curious on how is the best way to support the roof/back dash and so on.. Should I tac in a support rod from the trunk floor to the bottom of the back dash? Whats the best way to go about supporting all this.. Tips please and any important notes would be greatly appreciated.. Pics to...

Unless you need to go all the way into the roof line due to rust,don't. If your problem is mostly the wheelhouse and lower edges, just cut and overlap right under the side trim,it'll hide all your work. Hank

Originally Posted by 217-z

Alright on my 64 impala Im needing to replace the full qtr on the driver side.. What is the best way to go about this? I have no experience with doing this . The welding part isnt a issue.. Im just curious on how is the best way to support the roof/back dash and so on.. Should I tac in a support rod from the trunk floor to the bottom of the back dash? Whats the best way to go about supporting all this.. Tips please and any important notes would be greatly appreciated.. Pics to...

I use some 1" square tubing, and of course remember that any X brace is much stronger then a single piece.... You not only have to support things vertically, but you have to brace against any lateral or forward and back movement.... Also, once you have things braced and start cutting, DON'T MOVE THE CAR!!!!

Right... I dont need to cut up to the roof line but it does need to go up to the trunk.. There was previous repair done u can see the over laping inside the trunk . But where the qtr meets the trunk lid along the there the qtr is straight and u can see over lapping..

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

I use some 1" square tubing, and of course remember that any X brace is much stronger then a single piece.... You not only have to support things vertically, but you have to brace against any lateral or forward and back movement.... Also, once you have things braced and start cutting, DON'T MOVE THE CAR!!!!

So run a brace under the back dash to the trunk floor then run one from there to the rear of the car to hold the tail section in place?

If you have your replacement panel,you can see where all the seams are,including the leaded ones. As Dave has said, some bracing would be good,especially from the window shelf down to the taillight area,as this area is weakened the most. I'm no body man, just cheap and stubborn,and I've done a few of these sucessfully, so you should be able to also. Hank

Thanks.........

Originally Posted by 217-z

So run a brace under the back dash to the trunk floor then run one from there to the rear of the car to hold the tail section in place?

Think I'd put a couple in. Works good to prop the tailight panel with a tube angled down from the top of the panel and tacked to the floor, too.

Whats the best way to go about where the roof line meets the qtr? Mine isnt bad in that area but the full qtr panel replacement looks to go up there.. Should I not do that and if so where would be the best place to cut ? Along the trim line until I get to the point where I want to take it up to the trunk opening?

You can make a seam anywhere you choose,I use an air flanger to make a lap joint. You can cut a the base of the sail panel,and avoid going into the roof at all,and not disturb the rear glass. Hank

Thanks.. .........

It would be great if you could post pictures of the quarter you are replacing. Bracing is important as is supporting the car on the suspension while doing this job. I would place the rear end housing on stands and make sure the body is not twisted out of shape. Do as Dave suggested; don't move the car after this work is started. Use as much of the factory seams along the perimeter of the quarter if the damage is extensive. I even replace the door jamb area so that I can use the factory seam there too. I would use the trunk opening factory seam also. Make the non factory seam area as small as possible. Flanging the new seam area will add strength. A tigged butt weld will give the cleanest job here, but is more difficult to do. After you have braced everything and start cutting away the quarter, take extra care not to damage the panels the quarter will weld to any more than is necessary to remove spot welds. This pays big dividends in the end. Hope this helps.

If you have a full GM quarter panel (or even a good repro) regardless of what some say I sure wouldn't butcher it all up to replace only the section that's rusted on your car... separate the old one at the roof line, the trunk lip, and tail panel, then weld the complete quarter on it, the way the original one was installed, and they way it was intended to be installed. If you need to go up to the trunk lip anyhow, replace the whole thing... why cut up the quarter panel and have a seam to hide where there doesn't need to be?

Originally Posted by joeybsyc

If you have a full GM quarter panel (or even a good repro) regardless of what some say I sure wouldn't butcher it all up to replace only the section that's rusted on your car... separate the old one at the roof line, the trunk lip, and tail panel, then weld the complete quarter on it, the way the original one was installed, and they way it was intended to be installed. If you need to go up to the trunk lip anyhow, replace the whole thing... why cut up the quarter panel and have a seam to hide where there doesn't need to be?

that is the way to do this i have done many over the years

Yup, if you have a full quarter, use it all... Just melt the lead out of the factory seems and take it apart. As mentioned, the more careful you are removing the old one and cutting the spot welds, the easier the installation of the new one will be... A little extra time now will save you a lot of time later....