Thread: Engine Test Stand

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Here are photos of engine test stands . The Green one I made out of a hand cart that has 4" HD wheels . I run a 1958 283 Chevy radiator and bellhousing with Patriot Tight tuck headers with a short exhaust sys and small turbo mufflers . The nice new one is a PRW brand . Any one have ideas on a test stand or photos ? COOL

That 283 radiator is too small, you need to get a 350 radiator, it's cheaper and will make more power more easily.

an old camaro/nova clip works well. i had one but used the clip. if i can find a bad clip i'll make me another one. had little donut spares on it. takes up some space but i just stick it in the barn.

Here are some more engine test stands . The first one is a LARIN they go for around $350 bucks

A buddy of mine called me up one day and told me his Brother in Law was building an engine break in stand to test fire a 350 they had just built. They had no welding equipment so they built it out of wood! My initial impression was "Oh Boy, this is gonna be good! "

Couple of days later I went to visit them and it was done. The thing was amazing. He built the main frame out of 2 x 6 lumber and had used those plates they make for attics to reinforce the joints. He put casters on it, a "dash" with some instruments, a boat gas tank, a battery tray, and he used engine plates from Jegs as motor mounts. The biggest tool they had used was a 3/8 drill, because that was about the extent of their tool collection. They even painted the whole thing black and I had to admit to them I was skeptical but it had turned out great.

They later swapped the 350 into a '49 Lincoln Cosmopolitan, also using the same 3/8 drill and no welding equipment. It also turned out ok...........these guys were just very resourceful. Wish I had taken pictures of that engine stand.

Don

Oh, and they also "machined" the 350 at home for the rebuild using a hone and the same 3/8 drill. Last I saw, it was still running fine.

This is a stand I built out of 2" square tubing. It was fully self contained and would hold any angine (Domestic V-8, pf course).

It used a 70-81 Camaro Aluminum radiator and I used it to break in new, or freshly rebuilt, engines.

It's a great way to find problems (leaks, etc) and save headaches after the install

This one is a bit pricey but, according to "Boyd Coddington" it is the very best!!!!

http://www.mightymount.com/

For something "do-it-yourself on the cheap" I recall seeing one built on the frame of a shopping cart.

Anybody have a wiring diagram or simple electric explaination for a stand, minus the gauges of course.

Originally Posted by 42K3

Anybody have a wiring diagram or simple electric explaination for a stand, minus the gauges of course.

Well, if you are referring to what circuitry is required to fire the engine, it depends a lot on what brand engine and type of ignition. For example, a Chevy has the solenoid right on the starter whereas a Ford has a remote solenoid, so the wiring would be slightly different.

If you are setting the stand up to only handle one brand engine, essentially you would have a battery with one ground and one positive cable. The ground would go to the engine block and the positive would either go to the center fat stud on the starter (Chevy and most other GM products.) or to the fat connection on the remote solenoid (Ford) If it is a Ford then an additional cable would go from the other fat connection on the solenoid to the only post on the starter.

The ignition switch would have about a 10 gauge wire going from the battery positive to the "batt" post on the switch. Then about a 12 gauge wire would go from the "start" post on the switch to either the small stud to the right of the fat post on the starter (Chevy and most GM) or to the "S" or "start" skinny post on the remote solenoid (Ford) That will complete your starter functions.

For the ignition primary side, you would run about a 12 gauge wire from the "Ign" post on the switch to one of several places, depending on the type of ignition you have. If it is a typical external coil type, you would run this wire to the + post on the coil. Depending on your ignition switch, you may also have to run a wire from the skinny post on the left side of the fat stud on the starter (Chevy and most GM) up to the + post on the coil, and if it is a Ford you would find the "I" or "Ign" skinny post on the solenoid and run a wire from there up to the + post on the coil. If you don't do that you will have no ignition juice during cranking.

This explanation is very general as there are so many variables, but this should get you started.

Don

Denny probably can post a couple of diagrams that will sum it up in two words or less. lol

I just modified my engine stand,the four wheel not the three.Mounted the cross braces to the base stand so that I could use it for both by taking out the braces.Mounted the gauges to the upright for rotating the engine. Will try and find a picture.

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

Well, if you are referring to what circuitry is required to fire the engine, it depends a lot on what brand engine and type of ignition. For example, a Chevy has the solenoid right on the starter whereas a Ford has a remote solenoid, so the wiring would be slightly different.

If you are setting the stand up to only handle one brand engine, essentially you would have a battery with one ground and one positive cable. The ground would go to the engine block and the positive would either go to the center fat stud on the starter (Chevy and most other GM products.) or to the fat connection on the remote solenoid (Ford) If it is a Ford then an additional cable would go from the other fat connection on the solenoid to the only post on the starter.

The ignition switch would have about a 10 gauge wire going from the battery positive to the "batt" post on the switch. Then about a 12 gauge wire would go from the "start" post on the switch to either the small stud to the right of the fat post on the starter (Chevy and most GM) or to the "S" or "start" skinny post on the remote solenoid (Ford) That will complete your starter functions.

For the ignition primary side, you would run about a 12 gauge wire from the "Ign" post on the switch to one of several places, depending on the type of ignition you have. If it is a typical external coil type, you would run this wire to the + post on the coil. Depending on your ignition switch, you may also have to run a wire from the skinny post on the left side of the fat stud on the starter (Chevy and most GM) up to the + post on the coil, and if it is a Ford you would find the "I" or "Ign" skinny post on the solenoid and run a wire from there up to the + post on the coil. If you don't do that you will have no ignition juice during cranking.

This explanation is very general as there are so many variables, but this should get you started.

Don

Denny probably can post a couple of diagrams that will sum it up in two words or less. lol

Thank you for taking the time to explain. That is a big help. Because I have a surpus of used International Harvester V8 engines it will be exclusive to those. I will be building mine from a junk Scout II frame. It will be great to test the engine on a stand instead of installing it in a truck and this thread subject has been a huge motivator.