Thread: Cloth Roadster Tops
Hybrid View
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02-01-2008 10:52 AM #1
C9 and Don
If this post 'stays alive' until ~May, I can show you what my upholsterer did for my '31. Unfortunately he had already disassembled the top and interior before I arrived to pick up the body and neither of us had thought to bring a camera a few days earlier. Using the L-B irons (not SS, but painted) and oak, he made the covering to look much like the Chavers '32 top in that it wraps around further. I really don't like the OEM style with the two piece side curtains. I also have a small rear window, with tinted glass (about 5.5 x 19) rather then the larger '31 style. I can't tell you how much it cost me as it is all lumped into his price - tho the fabric, best recollection, was ~$90 yard and significantly heavier and nicer feeling then the standard L-B.Dave W
I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug
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02-01-2008 12:50 PM #2
We can dig it out again when you're ready.
The L-B cloth I got was T-9.
Seems to be a touch heavier than the T-14 sample.
They have it in a nice light tan color that I may use next time around.
The black color is hanging in there pretty good fade-wise.
L-B is pretty easy to work with, give em a call and ask for the fabric sample package.
The leather seat fabric samples are very nice as well.
One nice part about doing what Child of Ireland - hint, hint, new name - did in talking to the upholstery guy is that they have a wider range of fabrics etc. to draw from.
Even so, I'm happy with my top and a lot of miles and over a decade later it's still doing good.
The part stainless and part painted top irons would look good with a tan top.
I should have painted mine black, but when you're driving or just sitting in the car - waiting for Sweetie at the hat store - they're not noticeable.C9
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02-01-2008 02:09 PM #3
Originally Posted by C9x
NO! NO! NO! NOT ANOTHER PERSONNA(Dave - get hold of yourself - it's just an Anonymous moniker) Phew
I'll give my upholsterer a call early next week - I owe him a call anyhow and find out exactly what he used.
I originally bought L-B's entire $15 fabric sample kit and really tried to use one of their products until I finally settled on the material my top is made from. After all, L-B are only about 200 miles from me, and I've been in their shop several years ago when I was commuting to Maine for my job. Their material is very nice - so anything I say about my choices is prejudiced.
As a note, L-B, while easy to deal with, tend to be slow shippers - so order as soon as you can. But - with that said, their top irons are the best and the least expensive, regardless of the fact that they were most likely made by Girtz, who supplies most of the 'A' after marketDave W
I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug
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02-02-2008 10:53 AM #4
C9x, Thank you very much for your detailed description, it is very helpful. One piece of good news is that I looked over my stainless top irons (they are beautiful!) and to my relief they are marked in crayon with my name AND marked "2" chop", so whew and hoo-ray, I already have the chopped irons along with the windshield. However I note the round holes in the front of the irons want the stanchions to be vertical while mine are tilted back about 10 degrees so maybe a bit of a twist in a vise will be needed. I did call the Lebaron Bonney phone number and the lady there said they do not offer a chopped top for the '29 Ford, implying that they did for later roadsters. So the question is whether if I use the straight-up rear part can the bottom edge just be cut off and the snaps or stables be moved to the new bottom edge? It would seem so but may bring the trimmed edge of the side forward several inches. That would be OK with me since I would like a little more side vision than is available from the blind sides and maybe a smaller lexan quarter window could be added. I like the look of the '40 Ford convert with no rear side windows from the outside but from the drivers position that creates a blind spot. I have to say that I am cruising along on experience and confidence gained from building several spectrometers from scratch in my career but I am pretty much a "bolt-on" mechanic with a rat-tail file and some of the folks on this Forum like C9x, DennyW and Bob (to mention a few) are way, way ahead of me in the skills needed for a total build. I will try to get a picture of the red Shay I saw but I looked at the top bows and since it was rolled over I think they rebuilt the bows from motor boat top frames. That shop does a lot of boat tops as well as cars. I got the impression that they do very good work but prefer to "do it their way" at $70/hr. Prior to this I also had the top on my Sunfire repaired and talked to a different shop about the roadster top. I think I will ask around and see if that shop will install a Lebaron Bonney top with my chopped bows for less and still have the experience of a person who installs tops day in and day out. One thing that worries me is that when the "supposedly chopped" irons are on the stanchion posts, the irons look too low, I will try to get a picture. Thanks again C9 and if IC2 finds some pictures I would like to see them too.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
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02-03-2008 01:18 PM #5
C9x and IC2, This is a valuable thread which I have to study more. Overnight I got to thinking that I could/should mount the top irons the way C9x said he did and put tape over the outline. Then I can decide which shop can do the final cloth installation and make the side curtains. As I said I am a little concerned that my stanchions tilt back slightly and the top irons have a corner angle with a verticle pipe section welded in for a "Flat" fit so with a mock up of the irons I can tweak this to fit before the cloth is added. If after all I end up with the straight-up back shown in the pictures that is OK, but maybe a slight displacement of the screw holes in the back bow can add slight forward lean. In any case it looks to me that a standard Lebaron Bonney '29 top should be able to be trimmed at the bottom edge with almost no change except in height.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodderLast edited by Don Shillady; 02-04-2008 at 08:29 AM.
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02-03-2008 04:33 PM #6
i'll just add, another good reason to install your back window yourself.
And . . . don't cut the window out of the cloth until you're near the end.
Clear?
Install the window frame complete with glass/Lexan.
Complete the top install.
If you're happy with the top, then cut the window out.
You may or may not be able to move the window after the install.
I has 6-32 screws if I remember right.
The hole they make is small and my thinking is they may close up if the window is moved.
Use an awl to make the holes for the window and the cloth will be displaced and not removedlike it would be if you drilled - a perhaps dangerous thing to do far as damaging the cloth goes - or used an Arch Punch.*
*also known as gasket paper hole makers....C9
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02-11-2008 02:41 PM #7
C9x, In your new roadster you have a red Mopar seat and that is where I got the idea. I really like my red seat but it goes back into the corner of the '29 cockpit pretty tight. You have a little more space in your '30 but even so the seat looks pretty tight in the back corners. The reason I am asking is that I have greatly admired your roll bar in the '32 and would interested in whatever plan you have or comments about the possibility or plans for a roll bar in the new roadster. I don't see any easy way to cut into the corner of the seat without a total recovering afterward but you are very clever and may have an idea.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Sorry for your loss of friend Mike McGee, Shine. Great trans men are few and far between, it seems. Sadly, Mike Frade was only 66 and had been talking about retirement for ten years that I know...
We Lost a Good One