Thread: My '27 T Sedan project

Tweet

Yea I guess I haven't been keeping up with this too well. I've done all the patch panels in the usual spots, just gotta tie in the firewall on the outside to clean it up. Got both doors lined up and swinging nicely, gotta try to get those screws out so I can put in my new latches. As far as the doors go the passenger side seemed to be sagging and I could shut it and lift it up to line up with the belt line. At first I thought it was flex in the hinge mount but after playing around with it for a while I realized the skin had come apart in the spot welds. I just jacked it up and tack welded the inside seam and presto lined up door.

I bought a big sheet of 20g sheet and put the roof on, hours of stitch welding there. I had to pie cut the middle and tack it down cause I didn't have a way to concave it. Now after welding and grinding I need to shrink down the seam and stretch the forward section. It kinda sucked down tight even after taking my time welding, I guess I should have been hammering the welds.

I needed a break from all the bodywork so I started the dash and almost got it done. I have a 3" speedo and tach that I have to drill holes for that will go in either side at the top. I also have to weld in three little mount tabs to hold it to the console and sides. I'm really happy with the feedback I got on that.

I did a bunch of little things like removable panels around the brake pedal and battery box. I like to have little jobs like that to do in between big jobs so it makes me feel like I made progress .

Got a BIG shipment from UPS today with orders from Summit and Speedway that should be the last of my engine parts. I want the bodywork and painting done before I put that together but it sure is hard to wait.

Sorry for being so long winded....

Sean

I'll just add, I think putting in a roof properly has got to be the hardest thing I've tried yet and it's still not right.

I also ordered some rims, 4.5" wide front and 10" wide rear:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

and some BF Goodrich Silvertown white walls 165r15 front and 285/70r15 for the rear.

http://store.coker.com/prod/p28570r1...whitewall.html

I also had to order some wheel adapters for the rear Ford 9" so I could get those rims to fit the back.

Thanks for asking......

Sean

I've decided to spray Lizard skin noise and heat protection throughout the car. I have my '51 Chev pick-up that I'll probably do the same so that kind of justifies buying the spray gun for it. Unless there is a cheaper gun that works??

I want to get the frame and body primed and painted this month so just a little more body work to do and that will be next. I have holidays from Aug12 to Sept 15 so I hope to maybe get the inspection done and on the road during this time. We'll see .

Sean

Looking good Sean. Let us know how you like the Lizard Skin, we are kicking it around for Dan's car to keep the floor cool since he won't have any carpeting.

Don

Originally Posted by sgo70

I've decided to spray Lizard skin noise and heat protection throughout the car. I have my '51 Chev pick-up that I'll probably do the same so that kind of justifies buying the spray gun for it. Unless there is a cheaper gun that works??

I want to get the frame and body primed and painted this month so just a little more body work to do and that will be next. I have holidays from Aug12 to Sept 15 so I hope to maybe get the inspection done and on the road during this time. We'll see .

Sean

Sean, I used LS inside my 30 roadster, a light coat under the floor, and fairly thick under my running boards & fenders to hopefully prevent rock stars if that is possible. I had access to a Shultz spray gun and in my opinion (hindsight is always 20/20) using the LS gun would have worked better. I covered the LS with additional foil insulation. In a roadster it is hard to deaden sound so I mainly was hoping to eliminate as much heat transfer as possible. In your could ride I would use the foil insulation on top of the LS and put it everywhere inside and I'm sure you would be tickled pink. Keep up the good work.

Good info thanks.

Maybe I'll buy the gun, use it and then sell it to the next guy a bit cheaper, he can use it and then sell it and so on.........that way it won't be so expensive.

Sean

Just sealed in the firewall today and had the inspector check it out . He's good with it.

I was also wondering about what to do with all the holes around the roof, my friend told me of some type of epoxy that will fill them and is sandable. I'm also thinking about a vinyl top but what do you attatch the trim to if there is no wood???

Sean

Decided to get the roof chopped today, started at noon and got most of it done by 8PM, I'm beat. Thanks Mopar34 (Bob) for that info you gave me on how to do it it had some good points.

I decided to go 3 1/2" just in case I screwed up then I'd have a half inch to fix it . I only needed to do one pie cut in the rear and the pillers down low were really close so that I could line them up with one hand and tack with the other. I tacked it on once and then went around and cut it again with a thicker 1/8" cutting wheel so thing lined up really nice.

Iwas just wondering about the doors, they don't really form to the body that well so should I just weld them like they were or should I clamp them around the body before I tack them together. This would sure look a lot better but would it cause other problems. Once they're in I want to brace them to keep them from sagging.

Sean

That looks much better with the chop. Looks just right to me. As for attaching the vinyl top, I think there are wood strips that go under the slotted holes running all along the sides of the roof top, and nails go down through there. Dan is in bed, but I'll ask him tomorrow as he is planning on putting an original top on the sedan we have in the loft, and he has done research on how it goes.

I'll let you know what I find out. I like the drilled visor too.

Don

Thanks Don, I've been going over that roof with a hammer and dolley trying to get the proper arch to it as well as going over that center seam with a shrinking disc I made from an old pot lid. Works like a charm but not my idea . I thought about leaving the roof metal but I like the look of the vinyl.

Sean

Still working on the doors trying to get them to fit nicely, getting all the old latches and handles off and stuff. The lower sections are pretty rotten so I ordered some patch panels for them should be here tomorrow.

Got my tires mounted to the rims so I keep them in my living room to look at them every once in a while.

I didn't like my seats so I decided to make new ones. Got one almost done, just gonna add some trim and maybe a brace across the back. I used 16g so they are pretty solid. I'm still gonna put stitched leather cushions on them that will go with the interior I'm planning. I just couldn't get myself to buck another 160 rivets let alone drill another 160 holes . Maybe I'll finish them tomorrow.

Sean

Whoa, those wheels are killer, Sean. They look great with WW on them. I like the seat too, you've sure got more patience than me putting all those rivets in there. I'm planning on riveting my Dodge interior and have been drilling lots of holes too, but I took the quick route with pop rivets. You and Gastrick with his '32 interior sure are spending some time bucking rivets the right way. My hat is off to you.

Oh, the other night I remembered to ask Dan about the vinyl top thing. Yes, those rows of oval holes are for nails to go though into the interior wood in that area. It has been a while since he researched it, but thinks the top kit should contain the parts to do it.

Don

Thanks Don, I find that the buck rivets go in a lot faster than pop rivets once you get a rythm going. I just make sure everything is clamped tight and it's not as hard as ya might think. I start out slow only pulling the trigger half way and after about 10 or so ya can just open it wide up and it takes about 1 second each.

I did order some vinyl for the roof and I'm thinking of putting wood strips in unless I can find some that go in with T-nuts like Rod has from the other site. Thanks again.

Sean

Your tire/wheel package is great looking!!! The seat's look good also. I bucked thousands of rivits (two of us) on enclosed car trailers. I agree that once you get a rythm going it goes faster than pop rivits. The pop rivits make it easier in hard to reach areas.

Earl

I've been stripping rust and paint for the last couple of weeks and I haven't felt like I've been making any progress until today. I sandblasted my frame and all my chassis parts, my engine block was hot tanked, and I sanded and wire wheeled my transmission getting everything ready to paint.
I shot an etch primer on everything as it was down to the bare metal, then followed it up with some urethane fill primer and a sealer. Finally got to shoot the black on today, I used Dupont Centari like Don suggested a while back. I read a lot of horror stories about how hard it is to shoot as well as how bad it is for you, I was getting a little scared. I'm happy with the way it turned out....so far. I ran out when I was almost done, probably only need a half a cup more, oh well. I can actually see the reflection of the jackstands, I hope it stays that good.
I shot it in my garage with plastice hanging up and my door part way open wearing a respirator and fully covered up head to toe. The fumes didn't seem to bother me but when I went in a couple of hours later to take pictures it was overwhelming. Gonna take weeks to get rid of that smell.
I was thinking maybe I'll start re-assembling this week and put my engine together, I have an older friend that used to really be into hotrods that wants to help. Works for me! Just wondering how long I should let it harden before I start mesing with it.
Tomorrow I'll go buy some more and touch up a few things and let it sit for the weekend.

Sean