Thread: Fuel Cell vs. Gas Tank?

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I've developed a leak in my modified (i.e. chopped) stock gas tank. The tank was shortened to accomodate wheel tubs. I haven't determined the exact source of the leak yet but I believe one of the welds has gone bad probably from inadequate venting (i.e. collapsed).

I'm trying to decide whether I should attempt to get this tank repaired or junk it and add a fuel cell.

How do I go about finding someone to weld on a tank (which probably involves an acid bath etc)?

Fuel cell foam: I had heard some foams don't play well with pump gas... is this still the case or are the foams better these days?

Any other suggestions on what to do or not do with fuel cells baffling etc?

I'd kinda like to get the old tank repaired so I still have some usable trunk space and use the stock fuel filler tube etc.

Any suggestions, comments, guidance, whatever...?

Thanks,

-Chris

Click on all the fuel cell categories to find out if there's something that would work for you. I would think that the cut stocker is gonna keep bustin' open.
..:: JAZ PRODUCTS ::..

Another alternative would be to design and build your own tank either from sheet metal or aluminun... If your fabricating and welding skills aren't up to the task, a competent welding shop should be able to handle it....

i have built gas tanks and i have rework gas tanks to .i just did two harley gas tanks i wash them out very good and when done they get sealed up with tank sealer

techinspector: first off welcome back! as you've heard a few times, we've missed you here... application is mostly strip but plenty of street mileage. In looking at cells, I'm trying to figure whether to pick one with or without a sump. I figure the sump is better but will take more cutting/fab. Also on the foam inserts are these safe with pump gas? I don't want to gum up the works if there is some reaction. Is foam the only way to get baffling in a fuel cell?

Dave: that's a good idea but out of my league... I figure if I were taking it to someone I would just try to button up the old tank and add a decent vent hose with a check ball.

Thanks for the responses...

-Chris

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

i have built gas tanks and i have rework gas tanks to .i just did two harley gas tanks i wash them out very good and when done they get sealed up with tank sealer

Thanks, Pat... how reliable is the tank sealer and where can I get some? What do you use for washing out the tank?

I'll have to drop the tank and inspect it more closely to see exactly what's going on but if it's minor maybe the sealer will do the trick?

thanks

-Chris

the steel tanks the painter seals the bike tanks i do. i do not know what they use. i have done sumps with no sealer and alum tanks to with no sealer just do a psi check with some water in a spay bottle the sealer that they use on steel car tanks was por-15 and you could look at kbs to .i wash them out in the jet washer and have wash them out with dawn dish soap at the car wash i run about 3.00 bucks thru the car wash that works to i wash them till i can not smell any gas

Dump it, wash it out, pressure test it to see where the weak spot is.

Re - weld the bad spot, add a bung for vent.

Use Eastwood's three-stage sealer kit.

Your vent should have something engineered into it to prevent fuel from pouring out in case the vehicle should ever flip over. It can be simple, like looping the vent hose below the bottom of the tank and back up, or complicated like a flow valve.

The ol' charcoal canister plumbed into the manifold vacuum is one of the better emissions changes the EPA forced on us, but unfortunately that charcoal canister takes up a lot of room...

I ran a custom fuel cell on my replica for 5 years using pump gas and had no problems with leaks or foam deterioration. I talked with the techs @ two places before ordering, Fuel Safe and ATL, went with the Fuel Safe because they had one that would fit my needs with out modification

thank you all for the great suggestions

I'll try to get this tackeld at the weekend will give me a break from the wiring

thanks

-Chris

I use to take my new tanks to a bike shop, they would dump the sealer in the tank roll it around, dump the rest back out, and charge me $10.00 for the sealer to do it. It's been a while since I've done one, I don't know what they will charge now.

Pat

When you get done farting around after nothing has worked send the tank to Gas Tank RENU - USA nearest location. Unfortunately none in CO but check the dealer list for closest. They coat the tanks inside and out and they are guaranteed a LIFETIME.

The shops on that list are run by really superb, knowledgeable people. I have been going to the one in So. Cal. for decades. They work regularly on old cars too. I'm certain they could mod or repair as needed.

But the imploding IS a problem that needs to be dealt with. If no mod is made it will do it again so ask them to fix that. These guys know what to do without guessing.

Twitch... thanks. I saw you mention these guys in a previous thread and checked for dealers. As you mentioned there are none around here and time is of the essence.... I have about a month to wrap up all the "winter" projects in time for racing season... I intend to add more robust venting capability to prevent further occurrences but at this point (until I drop the tank and inspect it) I'm still just speculating what is going on... I'll make some calls around here to see if I can find a shop willing to take it on...

My engine guy knew a shop near his that does bike tanks but this one is too big for them in that it doesn't fit in their acid washer... depending what I find when I get it out, I'll probably try to wash it real good and make some calls to some of the other shops around here.

-Chris

Skids
I had a similar problem with my Harley. I called a custom paint shop for bikes, and asked who they sent their tanks out to for cleaning and sealing. The guys they sent me to, preserved the high dollar paint job, and coated both tanks, he wouldn't give me a gaurentee because the couldn't do their usual cleaning process and preserve my paint job. It was 4 years ago, still working great. A few tips, don't leave the tank half full when you park it for a while. Chevron gas is high in Mtbe here in CA. That stuff eats liners, but as long as the tank is pretty full, less air space for moisture and oxidation to eat the liner.

Most, radiator shops do oem tanks (not all) also, if they can't fix it with out sealant, I would not let them do my radiator either! I have had 100's of tanks & rads rebuilt, I find that the smaller the shop, the better the work I get back. (not garage shops), But then again I do my own tanks now at home, but not radiators.
I only seal to hold the crap inside the seams in the tank, stop it from going to the carbs only! never to stop a leak. I laided down my bike when I was younger because of it, and won't use a new steel tank again with out it.
If you are using a oem car tank, it should be soldered, not welded, it's alot easier do.
I fill them with water and let them sit, then look for wet spots or drips.

Pat