Thread: So it starts...Gen III 5.3 Vortec into 51 Chevy

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Figuring the time and headaches it would take you to build your own..well worth it I'd say.

Well, just realized today that the truck 5.3 manifolds are not going to work. Was about to get some flanges made with o2 bungs when I noticed the driver side manifold is right over the frame so there would be no way to hook the exhaust up to it.
The metal in the way I could cut, but beneath that is the frame of the car.

So I was wondering if f-body manifolds fit tighter or if there are any good suggestions for headers, or just any suggestions at all

I ended up using Sanderson headers. Had to modify the drivers side quite a bit. They were great to work with, sent me a box of scrap bends for $20 to do the mods with. When they were were finally right I sent them back and they ceramic coated them for $120. Had them back to me in less than a week. http://www.sandersonheaders.com/ Not all of their LS1 headers show on their web page. Call and ask them to send you a catalog to see them all.

Good luck with the f-body manifolds

Pat

I am thinking of using these
http://www.jegs.com/p/Patriot+Exhaus...10002/-1/10605

But someone said that they fitted some Kooks f-body headers into their 48 chevy coupe and the frame seems very similar to mine, so I am wondering if I could maybe fit some full length headers made for an f-body

Sanderson rules. I'm saving up for a set for my 48 ford truck.

Actually I think I am going to try to fit these instead now
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

I seen some pics of that 48 and the frame looks very similar to mine, so I think they may fit

Good price. The Sanderson's I'm looking at cost 315.00 (475 coated)!

-Put headers on
-finish wiring
-hook up gauges
-fire it up

Well, let's see how they fit!

Pat

Lets hear how they sound!

Passenger side is in





But drivers side would have fit perfect, but because of the location of my master cylinder underneath the floor, I can't install the header so I am going to go to the exhaust shop and see if they can't bend it some to clear the M/C

Here is from Sunday:

Good news, got the headers in.
and I got it to start

Now for the bad news
I can get it started with starting fluid and sounds like a beast , but once the fluid is gone, it dies . So I am assuming I have spark since it runs off of the starting fluid.
Also sometimes it will start without any fluid for like half a second after sitting for a little bit.

Troubleshot:
-Can hear fuel pump kick on
-Can also hear injectors spray when the key is on
-MAF is hooked up
-have about 4-5 gallons in the fuel tank
-No trouble codes showing up
-ECM programmed by Wait4Me so I assume VATS is deleted

Also when it is running it doesn't stumble or anything, sounds like it would run really good, then it runs out of starting fluid and dies

Been troubleshooting all day

Oh yeah, had a video of first start up, but for some reason the camera didn't save it, but I'll try and get one when she starts runnin right


And here is what I found out today:

Well for the starting problem, I think I got it now. Since I could hear the injectors, I just assumed they were firing, well this morning, I took them out to watch them and sure enough, nothing came out, but it sounded like it was. So first thing that came to mind was clogged injectors.

So I went and borrowed an injector from the parts store, put it in, and sure enough that injector was firing, and I must have jarred another one free from all the movement, because now another one started going on the other side.

So I had two injectors shooting (new one, and one old one) and the motor wanted to start, just didn't have enough fuel I assume from just two injectors, but it definitely sounded like it wanted to fire, so I think that may be it.

Needless to say, now all 8 injectors are soaking in Seafoam as we speak, and I will probably reinstall them tomorrow morning and see what happens.

Hopefully this is it.....

Ok I just checked pressure to the rail and when its priming its getting like 65 PSI and then after it clicks off its just under 60, probably about 55PSI, but then while cranking its getting about 65PSI to the rails.

I read somewhere that if the injectors get more 60PSI they won't fire. Can anyone verify this by chance?

Alright, just replaced the regulator and now fuel pressure is at 58PSI while priming and while cranking, which is where I read it should be, but the injectors still are not firing.

Also I hooked a mulitmeter up to one of the injectors and they are getting 12v, don't know about pulses yet though, since I have no one to turn the key while I watch the meter

Alright I just bought some injectors and they shipped this morning, so hopefully they will work.

I think mine are just too gunked up from sitting. I got one to free up and start clicking but then it got stuck open and wouldn't stop leaking fuel, so probably flooded that cylinder out now, I had to relieve pressure in the rails to get it to stop.

So now I will just put these new or newer ones on and see what happens