Thread: Cheap insulation options...

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Howdy again!

I am looking for some cheaper options for insulating the interior of the cab of my rodded '38 Ford Pickup. All the sound deeadening products I've seen are quite pricy. Has anyone ever tried the foil backed duct insulation used in homes?? Other options????

Thanks, Dave M.

The foil backed stuff sold in the hardware stores will fall off of vertical and/or overhead surfaces. It can not take the heat that builds up in a car.

if you will do a search on the hotrodders bulletin board there is a lengthy debate about this. Latex paint, and micro ballons work really well according to post there. real inexpensive.

Originally Posted by hedtrpr

Howdy again!

I am looking for some cheaper options for insulating the interior of the cab of my rodded '38 Ford Pickup. All the sound deeadening products I've seen are quite pricy. Has anyone ever tried the foil backed duct insulation used in homes?? Other options????

Thanks, Dave M.

Hey Dave,
Check out the last few posts on this thread....

http://clubhotrod.com/forums/showthr...036#post301036

Try this one. Henry did it right. Lizard skin is great but expensive ...........

http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sho...ht=lizard+skin

Kitz

I bet spray gluing some of the 1/8" rubber mat they sell at Home Depot would work pretty good on the floor board......

There seems to be a lot of theories on this subject isn't there? I think a person could use both a butyl composition deadener and the microsphere type of product and really have the best of both worlds. I think the Damplifier Pro is a great alternative to Dynamat, and certainly cheaper.

I was skeptical of the microballoon idea until I came upon this-


http://www.metalshield.com/insulation.html

I did not know that it was used on the Shuttle Tiles, and given what it is expected to do, there must be something to it-then I came upon this:

http://www.schennor.com/

I did not know that microspheres (microballoons) were a by product of coal plants-interesting.After reading more on the Hy Tech site, they recommend that you can put it on with an Airless Sprayer (which I happen to have )-could that be the answer to buying the Lizardskin gun? Not sure, but I do think this stuff is the same as Lizardskin (and cheaper)-look at this:

http://www.metalshield.com/buyrustproofing.html


http://www.hytechsales.com/prnt_paintlist.html

and, of course, we can't forget Wikipedia:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Insulative_paint

I am on the fence on this, but think I will use Lizardskin (or a derivative), and a butyl based product-can't hurt-

HERE is another product line. It looks pretty good to me.

This link, provided by Novanutcase, has a comprehensive test of many different brands including adhesive tests. I seriously doubt the cheap Home Depot stuff will withstand the heat of Texas summers for example.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

Kitz

I okiedokie
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This past weekend I had the chance to do some testing with a non-contact temp sensor on my three hot rods. I have just completed installing B-Quirt over the Lizard Skin sprayed earlier. I was a little concerned about that decision and wanted to see, before upholstery, how it performed. The outside temp was low 90's in bright sun. The car is a 1940 Ford coupe painted black. First I tested outside of an area that does not yet have B-Quiet on it [ran out]. I was shocked to find only a 5 degree difference between the outside and directly opposite on the inside. I had the Lizard Skin applied by a local shop that does so regularly. Did they not do it corectly???? Certainly looked good, but how do you ascertain 40 mils? I later decided to do the underside of the car and sprayed it myself, I don't know if I got 40 mils. I do like how the Lizard Skin seals the surface. Anyway, next I tested the area with B-Quite over the Lizard Skin. WOW, a 60 degree difference. I also tested my Blue 46 coupe with some insulation that comes from the aircraft industry [not sure of the name, black, closed cell foam type stuff] and a headliner. It was 40 degree's different. Then I tested my 53 F100 with two layers of the "jute" backed foil. I put the first layer in with the foil toward outside and then was told by many that was the wrong way, so I intalled a second layer with the foil to the inside. It has a Rod Doors ABS plastic headliner. It also tested at a 40 degree difference. Of course, what I don't know is what a effect a headliner will have on the 40, I hope for the better. I have attached some pictures to validate my comments.
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had posted this on the Hamb last summer. will post my follow up next.

I think that I would use the product at www.lobucrod.com if I were looking for cheapest way. Joe


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Test results with Lobucrod's insulation. I wish that I could have done this in the same temperature as the last but didn't want to wait untill next summer. It was only about 78 degrees on this day. I used the trunk lid on my 46 because it has nothing in the way of insulation on the inside. I attached a piece of B-Quiet, Lobuc's, jute with foil, and the airline industry stuff. With the outside temp on the decklid at 111 degrees I obtained the following results. B-Quiet 84 deg, Lobuc 84 deg, jute/foil 88 deg and airline stuff 86 deg's. Later it dawned on me that I could create heat with my "halogen lights on a pole". So I set this up in the shop and tested the Lobuc and the B-quiet on my 40 project that has the Lizard Skin sprayed on. I was able to heat the outside surface to 160 degrees. The area that I had already installed B-quiet over the LS showed 80 degrees on the interior side, the Lobuc over the LS was 85 degrees. I have pics to back this up if anyone needs to see them, well not the halogen light induced temp because the lite was too bright to take any pics. Some thoughts about what I think that I have learned. First Lobuc has a good product that I will use again. It is as good at temp reduction as B-Quiet for a lot less money. It also is lighter than B-Quiet and easy to remove if needed, I learned that removing the B-Quiet after it has been on a while is VERY hard, as it leaves a coating of tar on the surface. Yes it looks and smells like a fresh asphalt coating on a parking lot. I would not be happy to deal with this stuff after it has been on the car for awhile. This experience makes me rethink the value of using this type of stuff. I don't know how Lobucs product would stack up against B-Quiet as far as sound control goes. Also, there did not seem to be any advantage to adding a layer of Lobuc's over the B-Quiet I already have. Putting two layers of Lobuc's product together also seemed to not lower the temp reduction. My next project will probably get a coating of Lizard Skin with Lobucrod's product over it. One last thing in case you did not see my other post regarding the thickness of Lizard Skin. I was recently able to test what was sprayed on my 40 [some by me, most by an experienced shop] with an expensive device that measure mills of coating thickness. Lizard skin recommends 40 mils, my 40 varies from 10 to 20 miils. A friend that recently did the floor of his car had to apply three coats with a roller to get to 40 mils of thickness. Just FYI. Joe

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Just found this string. try www.tempcoat.com. It looks alot like Lizzard Skin

I don't see prices, are they cheaper? Looks to be the same thing that's for sure. Joe

the main thing in insulation is heat migration. many of these products after a while driving will heat soak . meaning the inside will be the same temp as the outside. building products belong in your house . not your car. i have used lizardskin for a long time and am very pleased with the way it performs. keep in mind any petroleum product will melt and or burn.
the 56 big window i finished last year had lizardskin sound control and heat control. i test drove it for around 100 miles before upholstery. the floor was only mildly warm. and this was july. i'm still waiting for some of these home brews to get finished and on the road .

I contacted them a few years ago when I put a fiberglass floor in my Henry J and was concerned about exhaust heat. I seem to recall that it was less expensive but not by a whole lot.