Thread: Grade 5 or 8?

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Thanks Denny. I will go down to Napa and buy a couple of exhaust bolts in number 8s as one did snap coming out, to unbolt the converter from the fly wheel, I take it there is an inspection plate I can reomve to get at it?

Dave,

I don't buy structural bolts from HD/Lowe's. I was just noting the price. They really, really hose you on stainless.

Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

Dave,

I don't buy structural bolts from HD/Lowe's. I was just noting the price. They really, really hose you on stainless.

Jack,
Who can afford many 1/4-20x1" SS at over a buck each there. Even their standard Gr 5 and 8 fasteners are outrageous - if they even have the size you need. I do occasionally get some Gr 8's from Tractor Supply though and use them in place of any Gr 5

Generally I buy a bunch of common sizes of SS from Gardner Wescott or Totally Stainless at a show like York. Then more come from McMaster Carr and a guy in MA. I probably have well over $1000 of bolts and nuts - but very few Gr 2

We dont use anything but grade 8 or better on the "Cup" cars I work on, and I've seen them bashed into alot of walls. The suspension bolts rarely ever break. Grade 8 all the way. Sean

thats for sure, here if u get caught without grade 8 bolts in the motor mounts and stands u go home

Glad you all agree!! Its just like a chic, if 5 is good, then 8 is better!!! Seems like the original thread agree`s, 8 is the way to go. And it was not speedway, it was fatmans.


Lets turn this a different direction, what non critical bolts do you use and where? I say use the best, cause i really do not like being stuck on the side of the road!!

i try to use grade 8 everywhere, suspension,engine mounting, of course grade 8's on the harness's, fuell cell , battery hold-down, know why? because you never know when it'll happen thats why.

I use grade 8 on ALL suspension and steering components. Grade 5 is fine for things that are not under stress, things that your life is not riding on, or some things that have multiple bolts. Examples would be things like intake or exhaust manifold bolts, water pump/ fuel pump bolts (you'll strip the threads out of the heads or block before the bolt breaks) or body mounting bolts (a grade 5 bolt is stronger than the sheet metal or fiberglass it's holding), etc. When in doubt, go grade 8.

I buy most of my bolts at the local ACE Hardware. They have a huge selection and prices are reasonable when compared to Lowe's or Home Depot.

The only places I get away from GR8 are bracket mounting (elect fuel pump, fuel filter, etc..., cable\line mounting clamps, ground studs, etc... These get 18-8 stainless fasteners, should they need to come apart later I don't want to deal with corroded bolts.

Originally Posted by J. Robinson

I buy most of my bolts at the local ACE Hardware. They have a huge selection and prices are reasonable when compared to Lowe's or Home Depot.

Me too. The people there can't figure out why we buy so many bolts by the bagful . I guess they don't see that many $100 bags of bolts going out the door. One guy keeps asking me if I have the robot done yet. Our Ace also has some very wierd stuff, like chromed nuts and lots of stainless fasteners.

Don

we have one like that too. the prices are not bad on the chrome stuff either. the chrome acorn nuts make nice finish items.

Originally Posted by J. Robinson

I buy most of my bolts at the local ACE Hardware. They have a huge selection and prices are reasonable when compared to Lowe's or Home Depot.

thats where i get mine to, and yes a bit cheaper i did the napa thing once, ONCE

I found out its just easier to buy the boxes of bolts at ace as I am always using them for something else around the garage , one of my freinds found out why I don't loan out my engine stand bolts to anyone , as they assortment cost me about $50 ( I use the shouldered die bolts) they dont need washers as the heads and shanks fit into the tubes perfectly , also a company called MSC carrys USA grade 8's in bulk too for a decent price in chrome or black oxide .