Thread: Painless wiring

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Here is a supplier of real handy parts if you are wiring. These guys have a booth at SEMA and cater to the automotive market.

Del City - Wiring Products and Professional Electrical Supplies

Their web catalog is interesting to browse thru.

Mike in Tucson

Originally Posted by IC2

I can figure Ohm's Law as well

Your decision, obviously - but 16ga wire on a light circuit on a homebuilt automobile IMO is at least one awg size too small. But then, I feel that Painless circuits are all at least one awg size lighter then I prefer on a moving, vibrating non controlled temperature device(automobile).

To each his own. But then I'm only a BSME

Your decision was to poopoo a company that I researched and found to have a sound product that I have implemented. You are educated, so if you have good engineering to back up your claims then let's see it. Otherwise don't poopoo an outfit just because you did not use them and you have some hear say that supports your claim. After all, we are not talking about anything over fundamentals here.

Kitz

IMO doesn't really matter whose wiring kit you use the Halogen headlights should be wired with a relay, as well as the door lock solenoids, latch solenoids, and any other hi amperage device you may have.... Relays prevent a lot of overloads (and fire potential) on the aftermarket kits. Like a few others, I think the wiring is of too small a gauge... I like mine a bit heavier then the system requires just for a bit of added protection......

I've wired so many over the years starting with nothing but spools of wire that all the kits look like a cake walk..... I've used Painless, Ron Francis, and a bunch of the smaller companies. Painless is ok, Ron Francis is still the best IMO.

May I weigh in with a suggestion as well? Good wiring relys a lot on good terminations. ie a Gas tight metal to metal bond. The best way I have found is solder but usually impractical. Next best is AMP crimp fittings i love em. They have the two metal rings inside them one holds the copper the other clamps the insulation and the plactic on the outside wraps the whole lot up. Look closely you will see the inferior types out there. Next rule of thumb lash out and spend 50 on a mechanical/ratcheting crimping tool don't just use those old plier types. Remember gas tight metal to metal bond!

Andy
my2c

ps AMP is amphenol

I bought a book by Overholtzer of Painless and he says to use EITHER solder or crimping. I would like to crimp connectors and then sweat solder into the crimp, Overholtzer says this makes the end of the wire brittle. Comments?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Britleness is definately an issue so is gas inclusion, but seeing that you will not be taking your rod to 30000ft I think we can forget inclusions. I personally would not solder over an AMP crimp. these connectors are excellent and are used in many aircraft with no problems. Just use the right tool.
ps I love solder and heat shrink. A well prepared and fastened solder joint is a very nice thing to see in a harness. Not like the large knots of connectors. If we want pretty try wax string lacing as well....

Andy

Originally Posted by kitz

Your decision was to poopoo a company that I researched and found to have a sound product that I have implemented. You are educated, so if you have good engineering to back up your claims then let's see it. Otherwise don't poopoo an outfit just because you did not use them and you have some hear say that supports your claim. After all, we are not talking about anything over fundamentals here.

Kitz

Obviously you didn't read my caveats as I seemed to have upset you by saying I didn't care for Painless - your choice for a wiring kit. It was offered as a personal opinion, i.e. ...."to each his own". I apologize for upsetting your sensibilities.

I have used Painless - my last car, and based on that experience was not impressed by their product. As I said and should have prefaced it with a IMO, felt that the various wiring circuits were of too light a gauge for my use and desires. I never said that it shouldn't be used nor did I say that it wasn't well engineered - just not right for my use.

My preference used to be Ron Francis, but they went to the preconnected module and got much too expensive as the switches became extra cost components. American Auto Wire was my second and final choice. AAW was reasonably priced, didn't have a preconnected and included every switch that was extra with the Francis kit plus the wiring was that extra awg that I desired.

Sorry Dave, it was a crappy Monday at work and I just happened across this thread and took it out a little on you. No problema.

Kitz

Not a problem, Kitz, "been there - done that" and no longer worry about it since I retired

IC2, unfortunately since I still teach an occasional class and so still have contact with my former employer I find it a helpless feeling to note they are doing things that I had no vote in. It would be better I suppose if I did not know this. Anyway today I installed the foot dimmer switch and worked on a bracket to bolt in the heater unit under the dash so I did get something today and hope to finish the heater installation tomorrow. I also opened up the "Its A SNAP" wires and found connectors on the ends of the wires. Nobody else has used "Its A SNAP"?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Originally Posted by Don Shillady

I bought a book by Overholtzer of Painless and he says to use EITHER solder or crimping. I would like to crimp connectors and then sweat solder into the crimp, Overholtzer says this makes the end of the wire brittle. Comments?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

I did just that when I wired the relays for my fuel pump and 12v MSD signal. lots of wiring and no problems.

Interesting thread here...and appropriate since I'm installing Painless in our EC.

Love the wiring with the number and i.d., but maybe all of the suppliers spoken of do that.

The problem that I'm having is with the 2 speed wipers and park setting. And from my last thread the neutral/park transmission thing. PW offers no ideas in the instructions and the forum seems silent on this issue. Oh well, its electricity!

But one thing that I've read alot about is not soldering connections.

Itoldyouso what made Ron Francis the go to product? I know that my next project will need wiring and I'd love to get a better kit!

Thanks again!

Poor Big Tracks
All he wanted to do was buy a harness

I went with american autowire. I've called them several times with questions related to stuff, like lighting, halogens, wire guage, etc.. They are very helpfull. No preterminated wires, all switches provided, and packaged per system to be wired. One down fall is it has all GM connectors, but since my car has no connectors or stock wiring to deal with,thats ok with me. I haven't started wiring yet, so I will hold off any other comments until after I'm done. So far so good (it is their hwy 22 kit) bought on ebay which they honor the warrenty to.

Originally Posted by stovens

I went with american autowire. I've called them several times with questions related to stuff, like lighting, halogens, wire guage, etc.. They are very helpfull. No preterminated wires, all switches provided, and packaged per system to be wired. One down fall is it has all GM connectors, but since my car has no connectors or stock wiring to deal with,thats ok with me. I haven't started wiring yet, so I will hold off any other comments until after I'm done. So far so good (it is their hwy 22 kit) bought on ebay which they honor the warrenty to.

This good customer service is exactly what I found from AAW. Mine is the predecessor to the Hiway 22 and way overkill for my car as it was purchased for a sedan that was sold partway thru build for the roadster(20-20 hindsight says that I should have kept the OEM iron, but.....). I asked AAW once why all GM connectors - their response was that the steering column builders and most accessory manufacturers use GM and that the GM connectors are the most common after market connectors sold at auto parts stores.