Thread: What's the easiest braided fuel line to work with???

Tweet

Hi Everyone! I hope everyone had a great week-end! ;-).... 2 questions; #1) what's the easiest braided fuel line to work with? {manufacture & style}. & #2) What {if any} special tools do you use when installing the ends? {the special wrenches, jig tools, etc.}..... as always, THANKS Bill

I like either Aeroquip or Earls.... I have a set of the aluminum line wrenches, and two aluminum blocks for my bench vise but that's it.... lots of other goodies out there to use on putting them together but as long as you make a nice straight cut on the line and don't have any strands hanging loose they go together just fine.......

I use the same as Dave. One tip on cutting the line, I use electrical tape wrapped as tight as you can get it. That's why I use electrical tape because it stretches. Make a couple trips around than use a die grinder spinning as fast as you can get it going and make a nice straight cut. This really helps keep the fraying down.
Ken

I agree about Earl's or aeroquip line

We bought a line cutting tool__Looks like a bush trimmer-- cuts the line perfectly without leaving any residue in the line to clean out--it is easy to use in place as you plumb a vehicle so it is easy to cut the correct length and clock the fittings in place as you go--cutter looks like a cable cutter but has longer handles--no tape needed

I'll try to find a current source

Always wondered if the cutters were any good... I've always used a very thin cut off wheel, a good cutter would sure be nice to have..... Thanks for the heads up Jerry.

We got ours from Lane Automotive also known as Motorstate Dist. The time I've spent over the years trying to clean out the rubber dust and small pieces of wire----

Have to check it out...I think Lane is still around.....

The fun does not start until "the little drops of blood" start appearing on the tips of your fingers!

I'd rather polish real magnesium wheels, it's less torture.

Originally Posted by John Palmer

I'd rather polish real magnesium wheels, .

and thats a statement!

Earls and Aeroquip for me.

Tried some Russel a few years back, not such good stuff.

You'll find the larger sizes - #8 & #10 - easy to work with.
#6 is not bad, but #4 can be a handful sometimes.

I wrap mine with two layers of 3/4" masking tape.
Cut it with a chop saw.
I have used a Dremel and it's a nice way to go, but the little thin Dremel wheels break so darned easy that it's less trouble to drag the chop saw out.

Remove the tape after cutting.

I like to use Never-Seize on the threads and inside the hose.
Don't get Never-Seize on the outside of the braid.

Screw the hex fitting onto the hose, use a popsicle stick, small screwdriver or the Never-Seize brush to paint the threads and hose interior with Never-Seize.

Mark the braid with a Sharpie so you can see if the hex fitting is backing off during assembly.

Screw it together.

Do not bottom the screw-on piece down all the way onto the hex fitting.
Leave about a 1/16" gap between the two fittings at the hex.

Check the mark to make sure the hose hasn't slipped inside the hex fitting.

I've found that the 'official' aluminum wrenches will mar the anodizing worse than a 55 year old set of Craftsman wrenches.
I don't use the aluminum wrenches, but they look cool hanging on the wall.

If you use your regular wrenches, be careful because if the inner corners are sharp they can mar the anodizing.

Use some aluminum pads on your bench vise and don't crank it down so hard that you'll egg-shape the aluminum hex fitting.

I add a folded up paper towel between hex fitting and aluminum vise jaws to help keep from marring the hex fitting.

Don't even try to make your own brake lines with the Teflon liner hose.
A giant PITA, many shops make custom ones and you can buy them ready-made for about the same price as buying the individual components.

The Speed Shop where I used to live used a pair of cable cutting shears to cut the braid.
Worked great, after the cut, flex the line a bit to bring it back to round and use a grinder to cut off any errant stainless pieces of wire at the end.

Use a small flat blade screwdriver to help push the - #4 especially - line into the hex fitting.
Seldom required on the larger sizes.


Keep in mind that the stainless braided line is a great slow speed saw.
Use Adels or other clamps accordingly and don't let the braid rub on anything.

Get an Earls paper catalog.
You'll be amazed at all the different fittings there are.

I used to modify them sometimes, but it's seldom required nowadays since both Earls and Aeroquip have a good selection.

You can also buy industrial hydraulic fittings that are similar to Earls and AQ.
They use hydraulic line with a plastic braid - most times rated at 3000 psi.
You probably don't want to use hydraulic lines with gasoline.
Todays gas tends to eat the hydraulic lines rubber liner and you'll have a leak in 24 hours or so.

I can post some more info on the hydraulic lines if you wish.


The Never-Seize really helps in getting the fittings together.
Sometimes it takes quite a bit of torque and the lubed aluminum threads can gall if they're not lubricated.
Plus . . . it makes life easy when you take them apart a few years down the road....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1J7u8sG118

C9 gave a great description, but I still had some problems (and bloody stumps) so I purchased some of these and they helped immensely-

http://www.frontlinegraphics.com/koultools/

Originally Posted by 35WINDOW

C9 gave a great description, but I still had some problems (and bloody stumps) so I purchased some of these and they helped immensely-

http://www.frontlinegraphics.com/koultools/

Neat tools.
A touch costly for a plastic molding though.

One additional thing I do is to clean up the cut braid on the fine wheel on the grinder.
Grind the wire back at a very slight angle then remove the masking tape being careful not to pull some more wires up.

As noted by 35 window, meat hooks on your classy braided lines are no fun.
I have one on the right front brake line on my 32 highboy and every once in awhile it gets me a good one.

Looking at black rubber brake lines for the new project.

I'd rather be dirty than bleeding....

To add a few tips to C9's list:
Be careful to watch the pressure rating on the hose....the larger sizes get suprisingly low pressure ratings. For instance, using a -8 hose on a power steering pump supply line might come near the hose limit. If you dont especially need the look of the braided line, your local hydraulic supply (or tractor supply) can make hoses in the exact config you need for really low prices. For my rockcrawler power steering ram, I got hoses for $15 each already assembled. FYI, JIC 37 degree fittings are the same as Earl's and Aeroquip. The steel fittings and hose ends are mega cheaper.....and typical hydraulic rating is 3000psi
If you need the abrasion resistance of the braid, you can get an overlay or tape a beer can around the hose and go as a rat rodder.

mike in tucson

Ah yes - that sticky red fluid that tends to leak out of my finger tips every time I make up a fitting using braided SS line. I think I have tried every trick described above - and I still leak a red bodily fluid . For me - the cut off wheel - that worked best, the 'recommended' 32 TPI hacksaw blade the worst with a cable cutter in between. I agree with C9 - why buy MORE special wrenches - my 40 year old Snap-ons, the 50 year old Crapsman or even the 5 year old Gear Wrenches are fine as long as they are fairly snug on the fitting - and even a tractor motor (Crescent) wrench will do well too.