Thread: "Faux" (fake) four-speed on a TH400

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I do remember putting a new one in for a customer a couple decades ago that was bolted to the tranny. It had a rounded lever more like a Mystery shifter but that could be changed out.

This is a good thread because alot of us are dealing with similar stuff. I have what apears to be a Hurst shifter, that is cable operated to my transmision. My delima is the shift lever is too short and runs into the seat. I'd tempeted to replace the whole thing, and get a lokar cable one, but they don't seem to make one for a ford c6 tranny. I also would like a neutral start switch, so I don't start it in gear! You sort of have to guess where you are right now!. The ones that mount onto the tranny, seem like they would be too far back in the truck, to where I'd have to cut a hole in the seat to shift!

This is the new B&M shifter, which has no rods in the centre may fit your requirements
http://www.bmracing.com/s.nl/it.A/id...&category=6029

[QUOTE=stovens]This is a good thread because alot of us are dealing with similar stuff. I have what apears to be a Hurst shifter, that is cable operated to my transmision. My delima is the shift lever is too short and runs into the seat. I'd tempeted to replace the whole thing, and get a lokar cable one, but they don't seem to make one for a ford c6 tranny. I also would like a neutral start switch, so I don't start it in gear! You sort of have to guess where you are right now!. The ones that mount onto the tranny, seem like they would be too far back in the truck, to where I'd have to cut a hole in the seat to shift!



Maybe you could try the lokar floor mount? Do Lokar sell the cable to be adapted to different model shifters?

Steve I'm sure there are other ways....I would would probably do a column change and use he column shift (my solution on the old 51 F1 I used to own).

The neutral safety switch is easy. Ford mounted the switch on the transmission in a lot of cases, 69 Merc full size cars is one that comes to mind.

For a shifter I would start with the style I'm using in my 64 Ford (they are under $100). Instead of cable they are operated by a rod. It usually takes a bit of playing to get the ratio right (full throw) but that's not usually too big of a deal. After the trow is right using a small die grinder you can cut detents onto the handle base (a positive reverse lock out at a minimum).

The handle will still be short and probably in the wrong location. My solution would be to cut the handle off (leaving a stub to weld a new handle to). The old floor shifted Ford trucks used a round rod of a shift handle as did a lot of other trucks over the years, dig on up htat fits the truck best or built a new handle out flat stock andweld it to the stub. A good shift boot will cover the graft.

[QUOTE=FATNLO]

Originally Posted by stovens

This is a good thread because alot of us are dealing with similar stuff. I have what apears to be a Hurst shifter, that is cable operated to my transmision. My delima is the shift lever is too short and runs into the seat. I'd tempeted to replace the whole thing, and get a lokar cable one, but they don't seem to make one for a ford c6 tranny. I also would like a neutral start switch, so I don't start it in gear! You sort of have to guess where you are right now!. The ones that mount onto the tranny, seem like they would be too far back in the truck, to where I'd have to cut a hole in the seat to shift!



Maybe you could try the lokar floor mount? Do Lokar sell the cable to be adapted to different model shifters?

Maybe get a seat out of an import truck with the shifter cut-away.
I know, I ain't much help and I am a stick shift person all the way so forgive me if I don't understand why you don't want a cable shifter that's bolted to the floor? It looks like the simplest way to have the shifter where you want it.

Summit carries a B and M cable shifter made to look like a 4 spd trouble is it dont have a safty switch but its only 120 dollars

it's cable operated just move the shifter.

Originally Posted by gassersrule_196

theres a guy here with a t-350 in a tbucket with a hurst 4 speed stick as the shifter want me to get some tech notes?

Yes, please.

Originally Posted by ceh383

Not true.....Look HERE

That looks like a possible solution...will have to investigate further. I'd really like a "double bend" shift rod (least that's what I've seen on bench seat cars) but that shift rod doesnt have the safety stuff running down the center.

Originally Posted by Mike P

There are some pictures of what I'm using in my 64 Ford i theis thread

http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16968

nice thread and nice project Mike! Thanks for posting that.

I have a Lokar shifter in my truck, 23" double bend, and it has the lock out cable running down the center of it....

Originally Posted by FATNLO

This is the new B&M shifter, which has no rods in the centre may fit your requirements
http://www.bmracing.com/s.nl/it.A/id...&category=6029

I'm not sure which product this is, as when I click on the link it comes up with just a blue page and no shifter. I backed up to the main page and looked at the quick silver model, which if it had a longer arm would be ideal. It also works with a c6 and is cable operated so i could move it foward and avoid the seat issue! Thanks.

Hurst makes this shifter for automatics in trucks, floor mounted, but taller, and the console is lighted, has a reverse lights switch, neutral start switch, and is a cable mount. The console is good for me, with my tendency to turn off the car in gear!
I might end up getting this one!

Originally Posted by 65cayne

That's where the problem is. The lokar auto sticks all have this button in the shift knob for the lockout features. I assume there is a cable or something that runs down the tube where as the standard shift levers are solid.

Get the lokar shifter with the single bend, then add a 4spd knob, and hide it under a Hurst shift boot. it won't look exactly correct, but it will look close.